410 Comp Cams. Is it worth it?

[Christine_4.0xlt]

I was curious about Comp Cams model 410 for the 4.0L. I was eyeing it because I'm tossing the idea of rebuilding and pumping up the stock engine in my 1998 Ranger around. Is it even worth spending the money on it? If so what are somethings to be on the lookout for and other parts I might need along with it. Keep in mind my want list for this project includes 95tm heads and and 2nd gen SOHC pistons (for higher compression and better flow), new main and rod bearings, and complete gasket set (it appears I've got a head gasket going out, that's what spurred this. Apparently cracked/warped heads aren't an uncommon problems in the 98mt heads on the 98-00 Rangers).

Thanks in advance for the advice

 

[gaz]

Christine,

I believe that the Ford 60°V6 4.0L OHV engine is absolutely worth building a little better. Even with stock Ford parts (the lighter piston rods and OHC flat tops), the rotational weight is reduced and the compression bumped; a win/win. Don't ignore the valve train flaws; this is the perfect opportunity to replace/upgrade your worn rockers and add adjustable push rods.

The CompCam power is worth it but the cost, get your stock cam custom ground for ½ the cost. Oregon Cam Grinder's of Vancouver WA do this procedure for $159, for the 4.0L OHV.

As far as I know all the OHC pistons are flat tops and the correct bore for the OHV 4.0L; I chose 2001's.

I feel that 94tm heads are a better choice, then the OHC flat tops only bump to around 10.5 with 94tm heads, this leaves room for head milling on pump premium fuel: though, if you are getting the heads/intakes flow match port/polished, the 98tm would be my 1st choice.

Consider adding Smith Brother's custom adjustable push rods, to insure the highest performance from your build. It is the most practical way to get perfect lifter preload on the 4.0L OHV.

If your not building a RACE engine, consider the stock piston rods that are 50g lighter (each). Don't forget the ARP hardware for your piston rods ..)

You may as well lose the crankshaft driven fan/clutch for an electric fan + controller. No extra hp but it removes the largest, unnecessary power zapping load from the engine.

 

[Christine_4.0xlt]

I didn't know that the stock camshaft was even worth grinding, Ill have to look a little deeper into it because $159 for a custom grind seems easier on the wallet than the $340 price tag on a brand new outfit from comp cams

And is there a huge difference between the 94tm and 95tm? Or are they pretty similar?

Do you by chance have a link or something to find those custom pushrods? And do you figure ill have to do any other serious valvetrain upgrades?

Also I was just planning on using the stock rods simply because its cheaper but its good to know that's probably the best route for a mild build

 

[MikeG]

Uh..... wouldn't grinding on your existing cam reduce valve lift? Or is this done in conjunction with rockers that open the valves more?

Just trying to get all this straight in my head.

 

[Christine_4.0xlt]

I think what they do is reweld then grind the lobes to achieve the correct duration and lift your looking for. I have no idea for sure but that's my best guess

 

[snoranger]

Usually you need to buy longer pushrods. When they grind a cam, they not only change the lift profile but they also change the base diameter.

 

[Vikz808]

Christine,

I believe that the Ford 60°V6 4.0L OHV engine is absolutely worth building a little better. Even with stock Ford parts (the lighter piston rods and OHC flat tops), the rotational weight is reduced and the compression bumped; a win/win. Don't ignore the valve train flaws; this is the perfect opportunity to replace/upgrade your worn rockers and add adjustable push rods.

The CompCam power is worth it but the cost, get your stock cam custom ground for ½ the cost. Oregon Cam Grinder's of Vancouver WA do this procedure for $159, for the 4.0L OHV.

As far as I know all the OHC pistons are flat tops and the correct bore for the OHV 4.0L; I chose 2001's.

I feel that 94tm heads are a better choice, then the OHC flat tops only bump to around 10.5 with 94tm heads, this leaves room for head milling on pump premium fuel: though, if you are getting the heads/intakes flow match port/polished, the 98tm would be my 1st choice.

Consider adding Smith Brother's custom adjustable push rods, to insure the highest performance from your build. It is the most practical way to get perfect lifter preload on the 4.0L OHV.

If your not building a RACE engine, consider the stock piston rods that are 50g lighter (each). Don't forget the ARP hardware for your piston rods ..)

You may as well lose the crankshaft driven fan/clutch for an electric fan + controller. No extra hp but it removes the largest, unnecessary power zapping load from the engine.

What length pushrods would you recommend for the 410 comp cam

 

[Jim Oaks]

How To Build A Ford 4.0L For Power - The Ranger Station

Written By ‘Doug904’ In 2008 Updated By Jim Oaks In 2019 The limits of the OHV are more so caused by the poor flow limits of the stock heads and the camshafts. To give you a bit of perspective … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

That article discusses push rod length.

 

[gaz]

Christine,

The BiG difference between the 94TM and 95TM heads is the head portion of the combustion chamber.

:SINCE YOU HAVE A 98 COMOP::
-If you are using 95TM, then don't use SOHC flat tops, mill the heads to achieve desired compression (0.03" will yields about 1 point).
-If you use 94TM heads, then SOHC flat tops are perfect for a point of compression.

In regards to correct push rod length you simply need to make the choice to use it or have a less efficient valve train (PERIOD). Smith Brother's website is easy to Google. They offer several solutions to help determine the correct push rod length for YOUR engine.

From what I've experienced the stockers were probably OK for the 1st 30k-45k, after that the 4.0L ohv was due for a talve train adjustment but since it was designed without that feature, it's reduced performance is eminent. It all books down to lifter preload.

In regards to needing a different length push rod with a replacement cam, they are a number of factors; increased lift, stronger springs, reground shafts...

In summary, the prudent move with a 4.0L ohv rebuild is to actually measure the required length, then decide wether YOU want to use that for 30-45k before needing longer push rods, over and over and over, OR, get a custom set of adjustable push rods which will insure the highest possible performance eficeincy for the longest possible term.

There us nothing wrong with using stock piston rods but get ARP connecting rod bolts. If you want to get some more power back from the enginerrs at Ford, there are 3 types used in this engine; the set marked "F boca" (known as the RIBBED style) are the lightest and offer a rotational wright load reduction to the engine = increase in efficeintcy.

Two other considerations with the connecting rods are:

1) peening, having stock rods peened will increase their strength and is much cheaper than buying forged.
2) annealing, having stock rods anealed will also increase their strength and is alsi much cheaper than buying forged

Both processed permit the use of stock rids with increased reliability bar the cost of forged rods.