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- Aug 13, 2007
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- 3,127
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- Location
- Illinois
- Vehicle Year
- 1995
- Make / Model
- FORD
- Engine Size
- 4.0 OHV
- Transmission
- Automatic
93-94' 4L swap
by: Ranger44
Pro's of going with a 4L:
-Torque Torque torque. 190ft/lbs at 1900rpm.
-Great for an off-road vehicle.
-10" clutch (towing)
-EDIS
-A very frequent engine, lots of j-yard engine with dead A4LD's behind them.
-Has somewhat of an aftermarket.
Con's:
-gas mileage may go down from current engine
-The 4.0 can be a finicky engine (but as long as you keep up on oil and coolant and keep care of it(maintenance).......you'll be ok )
-Rocker arm wear.
As you can see, the pro's out weigh the cons. The 4.0 is a good engine, and for it's size/weight makes alot of torque.
Engine:
I'd personally use a 93-94 4.0. They seem a bit more robust, have good heads (93TM casting), and show less failures than later or earlier 4.0's. 90-92' 4.0's seem to crack heads a little more often. It's said that a 95+ 4.0's can be used but the smaller fast burn chambers that made the engines more emissions friendly, actually make the engine a little less fuel efficient......go figure.
Later engines will need early intake manifolds, injectors, etc. swapped onto them.
Engine/Powertrain mounting:
If you're swapping the 4.0 in place of a 2.3, you'll need both 4L mounts. The 2.3 mounts are riveted to the frame and will need to be ground off. With the 3L, the left hand mount can be reused and you'll only need the right hand (passenger side) mount.
The transmission crossmember and mount are the same between a 3L and 4L, I'd recommend switching the double bushing ended member of a 2.3 truck with the solid bolt in type crossmember, but the 2.3 member will work.
Transmission:
You'll need a A4LD from a 4.0 truck. I've heard that 94' is the year to go with. You may also need the cooler lines.
With the M5odR1, You'll need one from a 4.0 or 2.9 truck. Must be 4x4 or 4x2 depending on application. A M5ODR-1 from a 2.9 would offer lower gears 1st-3rd gears. The ratios would be a bit wider too.
The 4L uses a 10" clutch, so you'll need the correct clutch. The 2.3 and 3L use a 8 7/8" clutch. The slave cylinders are the same P/N across the board.
Also ensure to get the correct plate that goes in between the engine and trans.
You'll need the dual plug wiring harness from a 4.0 truck for the correct transmission.( Manual or Auto from a 4L truck. )
Axles:
It's best to have a true D35 and 8.8 for strength. Some have ran smaller axles with the 4L and may last if not abused.
Exhaust:
A y-pipe is needed from a 4L truck.
Pay attention to the manifolds, if you're management is setup for EGR you need an EGR setup with EGR manifolds.
The 4L uses the same bosch style HO2S's as the 3L and 2.3L.
A 3.0 uses the same catalytic converter as a 4L, but a 2.3 truck will need the cat from a 4L.
Fuel:
You need fuel lines from the fuel filter up from a 4L truck.
Use red top disc pintle type from 93-94' 4L's. Other years will not work with the PCM.
Air Intake:
You're gonna need the top half of a 4L air box with the MAF(90'-94'). The MAF is bigger and has a slightly bigger MAF mounting surface. A 4L MAF will not bolt to a 3L or 2.3L air box.
They all use the same filter and CAI setup.
Get the heat shield from a 4L truck off the p-side manifold.
A plastic intake from a 90-94 4L will work.
Accessories:
All of the accessories from the 2.3 and 3.0 will work on the 4.0. This includes the alternator, ps pump, and a/c compressor.
If you want A/C, you'll need the lines from a 4L.
Note: The 4L uses a smaller P/S pulley than the 2.3 or 3.0.
Cooling System:
A Radiator from a 3L will work with a 4L. 2.3 rad will not.
Hoses are specific to the 4L
The overflow tanks are the same across the board.
Vacuum and EVAP system:
Use a Vacuum diagram to route vacuum hoses.
You'll need the EVAP hose and EVAP solenoid from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold.
The charcoal canisters are the same between all engines.
Electrical:
Note: this is where you can make it simple or a nightmare. It's best to just get a complete harness from a 93-94' Harness from a RANGER. The Explorer is setup different and will be a PITA to use. A Ranger harness will make it PLUG AND PLAY.
You'll need the complete harness from the overflow tank area connector to the PCM and Cannon plugs.
The on-engine harness is also needed. (should come w/ engine)
Alternator harness (should come w/engine)
PCM- Be careful as there is a few different sensors/emissions added to the 4L in mid-late 94'. The CPS, SFI, and EGR. The simplest setup is from 93 to early 94'. These are just dual HO2S batch fire management.
Also, there is a difference between the A/T and M/T computers. The A/T computers will work with a M/T but not vice versa. An A/T computer used with an M/T will probably set a CEL for torque converter lock-up. The injector idle down strategy is also different between the 2. You'll notice a 1-2mpg(worse) difference when using an A/T PCM with a M/T truck.
Starting:
Starters are different between AT and MT and unique to 4L.
It'll be a good idea to snag the starter harness.
Ignition:
Coil pack E97 (DGE446)
Spark Plugs AP105 (2.3 and 3.0 use AP104's)
Here's the basic overview. These are my notes from my research. I've noticed there are questions frequently asked for these 2 years, and I've personally answered quite a few of them. If this can be made a sticky or added to the 4L swap section in the tech library this could help alot of people.
Feel free to ask questions or criticize, it may remind me to add more to the list.
by: Ranger44
Pro's of going with a 4L:
-Torque Torque torque. 190ft/lbs at 1900rpm.
-Great for an off-road vehicle.
-10" clutch (towing)
-EDIS
-A very frequent engine, lots of j-yard engine with dead A4LD's behind them.
-Has somewhat of an aftermarket.
Con's:
-gas mileage may go down from current engine
-The 4.0 can be a finicky engine (but as long as you keep up on oil and coolant and keep care of it(maintenance).......you'll be ok )
-Rocker arm wear.
As you can see, the pro's out weigh the cons. The 4.0 is a good engine, and for it's size/weight makes alot of torque.
Engine:
I'd personally use a 93-94 4.0. They seem a bit more robust, have good heads (93TM casting), and show less failures than later or earlier 4.0's. 90-92' 4.0's seem to crack heads a little more often. It's said that a 95+ 4.0's can be used but the smaller fast burn chambers that made the engines more emissions friendly, actually make the engine a little less fuel efficient......go figure.
Later engines will need early intake manifolds, injectors, etc. swapped onto them.
Engine/Powertrain mounting:
If you're swapping the 4.0 in place of a 2.3, you'll need both 4L mounts. The 2.3 mounts are riveted to the frame and will need to be ground off. With the 3L, the left hand mount can be reused and you'll only need the right hand (passenger side) mount.
The transmission crossmember and mount are the same between a 3L and 4L, I'd recommend switching the double bushing ended member of a 2.3 truck with the solid bolt in type crossmember, but the 2.3 member will work.
Transmission:
You'll need a A4LD from a 4.0 truck. I've heard that 94' is the year to go with. You may also need the cooler lines.
With the M5odR1, You'll need one from a 4.0 or 2.9 truck. Must be 4x4 or 4x2 depending on application. A M5ODR-1 from a 2.9 would offer lower gears 1st-3rd gears. The ratios would be a bit wider too.
The 4L uses a 10" clutch, so you'll need the correct clutch. The 2.3 and 3L use a 8 7/8" clutch. The slave cylinders are the same P/N across the board.
Also ensure to get the correct plate that goes in between the engine and trans.
You'll need the dual plug wiring harness from a 4.0 truck for the correct transmission.( Manual or Auto from a 4L truck. )
Axles:
It's best to have a true D35 and 8.8 for strength. Some have ran smaller axles with the 4L and may last if not abused.
Exhaust:
A y-pipe is needed from a 4L truck.
Pay attention to the manifolds, if you're management is setup for EGR you need an EGR setup with EGR manifolds.
The 4L uses the same bosch style HO2S's as the 3L and 2.3L.
A 3.0 uses the same catalytic converter as a 4L, but a 2.3 truck will need the cat from a 4L.
Fuel:
You need fuel lines from the fuel filter up from a 4L truck.
Use red top disc pintle type from 93-94' 4L's. Other years will not work with the PCM.
Air Intake:
You're gonna need the top half of a 4L air box with the MAF(90'-94'). The MAF is bigger and has a slightly bigger MAF mounting surface. A 4L MAF will not bolt to a 3L or 2.3L air box.
They all use the same filter and CAI setup.
Get the heat shield from a 4L truck off the p-side manifold.
A plastic intake from a 90-94 4L will work.
Accessories:
All of the accessories from the 2.3 and 3.0 will work on the 4.0. This includes the alternator, ps pump, and a/c compressor.
If you want A/C, you'll need the lines from a 4L.
Note: The 4L uses a smaller P/S pulley than the 2.3 or 3.0.
Cooling System:
A Radiator from a 3L will work with a 4L. 2.3 rad will not.
Hoses are specific to the 4L
The overflow tanks are the same across the board.
Vacuum and EVAP system:
Use a Vacuum diagram to route vacuum hoses.
You'll need the EVAP hose and EVAP solenoid from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold.
The charcoal canisters are the same between all engines.
Electrical:
Note: this is where you can make it simple or a nightmare. It's best to just get a complete harness from a 93-94' Harness from a RANGER. The Explorer is setup different and will be a PITA to use. A Ranger harness will make it PLUG AND PLAY.
You'll need the complete harness from the overflow tank area connector to the PCM and Cannon plugs.
The on-engine harness is also needed. (should come w/ engine)
Alternator harness (should come w/engine)
PCM- Be careful as there is a few different sensors/emissions added to the 4L in mid-late 94'. The CPS, SFI, and EGR. The simplest setup is from 93 to early 94'. These are just dual HO2S batch fire management.
Also, there is a difference between the A/T and M/T computers. The A/T computers will work with a M/T but not vice versa. An A/T computer used with an M/T will probably set a CEL for torque converter lock-up. The injector idle down strategy is also different between the 2. You'll notice a 1-2mpg(worse) difference when using an A/T PCM with a M/T truck.
Starting:
Starters are different between AT and MT and unique to 4L.
It'll be a good idea to snag the starter harness.
Ignition:
Coil pack E97 (DGE446)
Spark Plugs AP105 (2.3 and 3.0 use AP104's)
Here's the basic overview. These are my notes from my research. I've noticed there are questions frequently asked for these 2 years, and I've personally answered quite a few of them. If this can be made a sticky or added to the 4L swap section in the tech library this could help alot of people.
Feel free to ask questions or criticize, it may remind me to add more to the list.
Last edited: