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4.0 OHV top end redo


alwaysFlOoReD

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I bought a metric and sae heli-coil kits decades ago. They've saved me many times. But pricy...
I think I paid $125 each. They have 6 or 7 sizes. I also keep an eye for that stuff at yard sales. Picked up quite a bit over the years.
 


Dantheman1540

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I bought a metric and sae heli-coil kits decades ago. They've saved me many times. But pricy...
I think I paid $125 each. They have 6 or 7 sizes. I also keep an eye for that stuff at yard sales. Picked up quite a bit over the years.
I need to bite the bullet and buy those as well, I have a really nice tap and die set. It’s saved me dozens of times and I’m overly protective of it. They seem to be not leaking surprisingly, but we will see how it goes tomorrow heading to work
 

19Walt93

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Maybe try this stuff:

My buddy that works at Ford mentioned something about Taurus and Escape engines having really bad issues with rust and people not changing the coolant. He said that Ford made some sort of cleaner and I'm assuming that's what he was talking about.

@19Walt93 do you have any experience with this Motorcraft stuff?
Nope, I've never used flush chemicals and don't recommend them because it's too hard to be sure you've got all the corrosive chemicals out of the engine.
 

19Walt93

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I didn't see that you had pulled the block drains, if you don't you'll work forever to get the coolant clean.
 

broncc

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Is your rad cap good? I misdiagnosed a bad head gasket when some gunk from my dirty coolant system got stuck in my radiator cap and displayed all the symptoms of a bad head...

IMG_20240507_184341404_HDR.jpg
(embarrassing misdiagnosis! Fortunately the distributor blew up for real shortly after and the motor spun with no oil pressure...)
 

Dantheman1540

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Is your rad cap good? I misdiagnosed a bad head gasket when some gunk from my dirty coolant system got stuck in my radiator cap and displayed all the symptoms of a bad head...

View attachment 112324
(embarrassing misdiagnosis! Fortunately the distributor blew up for real shortly after and the motor spun with no oil pressure...)
It’s newer, but doesn’t mean it works obviously, maybe I’ll test it tomorrow. Although it does usually let stuff blow out into the coolant overflow tank which should mean it works right?
 

broncc

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4.0 coolant systems are "self bleeding" meaning they move a small amount of coolant to and from the overflow tank as it warms up and cools down. The cap should hold up to 16 PSI pressure. You shouldn't really see more than an inch of movement in the overflow tank once its fully bled?

Usually after a coolant change I top up the radiator as much as I can and overfill the tank. The first few times you drive it, it will suck more coolant into the rad.
 

Dantheman1540

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4.0 coolant systems are "self bleeding" meaning they move a small amount of coolant to and from the overflow tank as it warms up and cools down. The cap should hold up to 16 PSI pressure. You shouldn't really see more than an inch of movement in the overflow tank once its fully bled?

Usually after a coolant change I top up the radiator as much as I can and overfill the tank. The first few times you drive it, it will suck more coolant into the rad.
Yep that’s what it does, when I said “it lets stuff blow out into the overflow tank” I meant when it overheats it boils out into the overflow tank.
 

sgtsandman

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Yep that’s what it does, when I said “it lets stuff blow out into the overflow tank” I meant when it overheats it boils out into the overflow tank.
That sounds like the radiator cap to me.
 

Dantheman1540

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Even after all the hosing this is what came out after 15miles of driving.
Truck stayed nice and cold on my commute till the last bit on the way home I blasted down a 1/4mile sandy road. Pretty well pinned it WOT in 2nd gear 2H for the full 1/4mile and dang the suspension rocks! But by the end the truck was boiling out the overflow.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I had problems similar. Turned out that the impeller wasn't attached to the shaft. The block got froze and I forgot to check the pump. But did change all the frost plugs.
 

Dantheman1540

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I had problems similar. Turned out that the impeller wasn't attached to the shaft. The block got froze and I forgot to check the pump. But did change all the frost plugs.
Ouchy that’s a good one! Luckily no freezing down here, didn’t even get cold enough to kill the mosquitos. I will likely have to pull the pump to get a good angle at fixing the thermostat housing holes. So I’ll inspect it then.
 

19Walt93

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I've seen gritty, rusty coolant erode the water pump impeller and drastically reduce it's flow.
Not to nag but it still doesn't sound like you've pulled the block drains, without that you'll never get it cleaned out.
 

sgtsandman

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The impellor issue on the water pump is a good one. I've never experieinced it but an impellor broken loose from the shaft and/or the impellor being so worn down that it doesn't move coolant is a thing.

While the 4.0 OHV engine isn't as finicky as the 2.9 with overheating, after you get the issue(s) figured out, you might want to consider getting the heads and block checked out for warping. More work, I know, but better to find out now than later when it's less convenient and will be more expensive.
 

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