4.0 dies when warm after swap also cluster back light won't turn off

[BabyBronco89]

So I finished my 4.0 swap in the 86
I have just a few minor problems

First the bigger one

She starts up cold like a bat out of hell
Once let her set and idle she will idle for about 15 mins until she gets good and warm then she just chug a chugs and does out
When I try pushing that gas it chokes her out faster
It also smells like she's running very rich
I put a nice knock off welded flowmaster type muffler on her with 2.5 in and outlet
No cat or resonater
She sounds great but the exhaust will burn your eyes
I noticed it would get harsher the more she warmed up, so I thought possibly a bad o2 sensor
So I unplugged it and it did the same thing allthough i don't think she ran as rich

Does the engine run better with a bad o2 sensor as opposed to unplugging it??

Ok the seconded issue has to do with
The cluster always being on, I k ow it has something to do with the dome lights n door pins
My question with this is I want to disable the door pins, I hate that the dome light will always be on when ever the doors are open, I instead would like to just manually turn it on with the headlight dimmer switch

So the question is when the door is closed are the pins open? Or closed??
What switches are involved in the illuminating process
, so can someone shed some light on this subject for me??



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[RonD]

Check the MAF first, unplug it and see if engine runs better warm.
Might need to be cleaned.
Make sure there are no air leaks the the air duct from MAF to upper intake

Make sure ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor got hooked up, it is a 2 wire sensor the computer uses to set Choke function, and then remove it when engine gets warmed up.

There is a 1 wire sender that looks similar, it is for the dash board temp gauge.

O2 sensors are not used when engine is warming up, that is part of the Choke routine in the computer, it should run rich when cold, but not over rich, i.e. black exhaust smoke.

The computer also expects to see a rear O2 sensor input, it tells it if the Cat converter is working, it compares front sensor levels to rear, not sure what the result would be "mixwise" without that sensor hooked up.

 

[adsm08]

Engine will run better with o2 unplugged than with a bad sensor.

 

[BabyBronco89]

Adsm08
Thanks for that bit of info,
Do you think my problem could be a bad maf sensor??
If I unplug it should it correct the getting to rich and stalling out problem??


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[BabyBronco89]

Sorry rond I didn't see your reply but it confirmed my question about unplugging the maf,
Also it is a obd 1 system so no 2nd o2 sensor

The o2 sensor is physically good looking condition, looks like it might even spin out, with out being a pita,

I'm going to attempt to take her on a long voyage and see what happens with no maf sensor, and plugging back in the o2 sensor

Also I pulled the 10 amp fuse for the radio I believe, and the dash light went out, so now I just have to reinstall it for night driving
Lol

Oh what fun it is working out bugs


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[adsm08]

I doubt the MAF is at fault. Since your issue occurs after warmup I would suspect the coolant temp sensor, since that is the primary input for engine temp.