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351w swap in progress.

farmer

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So I have the 351w in place and bolted down, this is going carbureted. I have a bypass style fuel pressure regulator all mounted up and the lines run. I Torres checking for leaks and the electric fuel pump didn't kick on. All the wiring from the motor was unplugged and zip tied back. I assume that the computer isn't triggering the fuel pump because it sees something isn't there. Does anyone know what I need to bypass or hot rod to get the fuel pump to come on?
 


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dangerranger83

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You can either hook it to a relay that is turned on by your key switch or a toggle switch.

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farmer

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So he original relay won't function now?
 

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Well the computer controls the fuel pump, if the computer doesn't see the engine spinning it won't run the pump.

You would be best off getting a mechanical one.
 

farmer

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Adsm08, then why does the fuel pump come on when the key is first turned to the ON position?
 

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Adsm08, then why does the fuel pump come on when the key is first turned to the ON position?
The system will run a short burst to repressurize the fuel injectors when the key is first turned on. After that, the ecu won't let the pump run if it does not detect that the engine is running.

You should be able to simply rewire the relay to work off the ignition switch rather than the ecu.
 

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What do you think is the easiest way for the ECU to trigger the stock fuel system?

How could you trigger the fuel system with the ECU present?

How would you trigger any other relay to operate if it already had power supplied?
 

farmer

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I've got the fuel figured out. Finally found a good schematic for my truck.

Got the transmission in and mounted, hydro clutch all setup. Go to put the NP208 on the end.. No Bueno. Doesn't clear the frame. By a lot. Almost looks like if I raise the transmission more, the transfer comes closer to clearing. So threat where I'm at.

I will say for anybody looking to do a 351w swap, it's not as hard as it looks on paper. It's not bolt in mind you, but not rocket science. I used mustang mounts and advance adapter log style swap headers. Clears steering fine. Motor sits higher with the mustang mounts, so the body lift is crucial.
 

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Adsm08, then why does the fuel pump come on when the key is first turned to the ON position?
Basic fuel pump operation in an EFI system is to give the pump a 3-5 second priming when the system first powers up and then not run it at all until the computer sees the engine spinning.

It's a safety feature as well as a control feature. You need that prime because some pressure will bleed off when the system is off, you need to restore that to get it started, but if something happens to stall the engine (like a fuel line being damaged) you don't want to pump to keep running and spewing fuel all over the place.
 

farmer

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Okay I managed to squeeze the 208 in, how straight does the motor tranny and transfer really have to be in relation to the frame? Because with the transfer case stuffed in much like dangerranger86 has his, I have quite a bit of angle going on.
 

dangerranger83

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From the factory, the tail shaft output and diff aren't in line with each other. Also you don't want them in perfect line with each other, you want some angle so that your ujoints are constantly moving so that they don't lock up and break because of a lack of movement. But you don't want to much or you will have drive line binding.

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farmer

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357w
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Solid Axle Swap 4x4
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Well motor is in and running. Had to do extensive modification to the Advance Adapters headers (heat and dent method) luckily the large size of the header means it wasn't restricted much. The Holley bypass regulator works great at keeping the factory in tank pump, I grounded one side of the fuel pump relay so the pump is on any time the key is on.
Now I'm having an issue with the starter solenoid circuit. Starter won't turn with the key, put power to the exciter terminal and the solenoid functions as it should. Checked the clutch safety switch (yes it's a manual), I have power to it and it functions as it should. The neutral sense switch in the transmission won't affect this will it? It's wired as part of the engine harness. I really don't want to put a push button switch in, what am I missing here??
 

farmer

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357w
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2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Total Lift
13ish
Tire Size
39.5x15.5
Well truck finally moved under its own power last night. Drove it around the yard, hammered down a couple times. Only one problem... The 1/4" clearance from water pump to radiator turned into negative clearance. It was only a $45 junkyard 91 explorer radiator but $45 is $45. Now looking for a better solution to tuck the radiator in the core support
 

farmer

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Location
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Mix of 78-96
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Engine Size
357w
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Total Lift
13ish
Tire Size
39.5x15.5
Not that anyone's probably following this, but I figured I'd post results anyways.

Cut bottom of core support out, moved radiator down and forward, still using explorer radiator, just changed the electric fan from pusher to puller.
Mr gasket filter relocation fits like shit and leaks, finally got it sealed up.
Been working on making a new bumper and ditched the older than dirt electric winch for a milemarker hydraulic one. Getting lines made was a bitch but that's finally solved. Plumbing the tranny cooler in the radiator as a powersteering cooler on the return line, and going to extend the filler neck of the powersteering pump higher than the cooler, which will also increase the capacity by a good amount.

Went for another short beat run today, with the 38s back on it. Woof. What a difference. Hopefully getting the exhaust done finally this week/early next week.
 

dangerranger83

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That kind of clearance between FEAD and radiator can change quick as you found out.

My efan motor was contacting my water pump pulley when I drove, not much but enough that I didn't want it to continue, so I just moved my fan down a bit and have plenty of clearance despite not getting my engine back as far as I would have liked.

Now as for using the tranny cooler in the rad as a power steering cooler, do you have pictures of this? I assume you ran the line from the steering box to the top inlet of the cooler then had the bottom just hook to the pump? I'm using a 5.0 explorer rad and I'm not using the trans cooler since I too am using a manual trans.

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