351W in 88 2wd


ieatcamaros

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I have a '74 351W that I am going to install in my 88 Ranger. I have a couple of questions. I am sure they have been asked time and time again, but with this whole forum change and info theft, I am not able to research like I want to. Although I didn't post much, I would get on the old forum and read some. I have been contemplating this swap for about three years or so.

My Ranger originally was a 2.0L carbureted M5OD truck. Now I have the engine bay empty and have done some of the necessary modifications to fit the v8. I was planning on using some old 87-93 coupe mustang motor mounts since I have like three pair of them. But with the serpentine water pump mounted on the engine, it looks like the only way to fit the radiator is to tuck it underneath. I would like to get around this by moving the engine closer to the firewall. In order to do that, the mounts' stud goes beyond the crossmember. So I ask anyone who has the radiator not tucked underneath the support, what mounts did you use? Or, anyone who used fox mustang mounts, how close is your water pump to the radiator. And did you bolt the mounts to the crossmember like a typical motor mount would? I really would like to get around using the pre fabbed swap mounts from L&L and such. If I use a pair of ranger v6 mounts and make the 1/4" plate, it looks like the majority of the weight of the motor would be sitting on the 1/4" plate instead of the crossmember. BTW, I am planning on using a Griffin 27x19 with two rows of 1 inch tubes and probably dual 10" electric fans used as a pusher. I am open to any suggestions. Thanks.

And thanks to JROD-13 for posting the info from the old site. That helped some.
 
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projectnitemare

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It's pretty tough to get the radiator in a factory location. With an aftermarket radiator you are going to need to make mounts anyway, why not just cut the core support and make radiator mounts that attach to the frame instead of some rusted sheet metal? A 27x19 radiator isn't going to fit very well. Too tall if you want to try to use the stock mounts and too wide to fit between the frame rails. A 26x19 will sit on top of the frame rails and just barely fit under the core support and that's with a 3 inch body lift. You would have to go either thinner or shorter. Unless you cut the top of the frame to make it slide down in the frame but I wouldn't do that. I used the 2.9L lower mounts with .25 inch adapter plates. If you move the lower mounts around you can get good engine placement and the weight is well placed on the mounts. That is the reason I made the plates; with some thought you can get the engine right to the firewall and low in the frame. I have a healthy stroker on them with no problems at all. I would use electric fans as a puller, you will have the room especially if you put the radiator under the core support. Mine is under there and I have a mechanical fan and enough room for a electric puller. Aside from the engine what else are you planning on doing?

Matt
 

ieatcamaros

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I have the engine sitting where I want it right now, basically. I tossed the idea of using mustang motor mounts. If I had a pair of v6 ranger mounts, I'd try them. But I don't have any and the junkyard who has some wants $30 for the pair with me taking them off. They are on a BII 4x4. They are a bitch to get off in the weeds, so I said forget it. I just made my own mounts. I had done some measuring before and I thought a 27x19 radiator was the biggest I could fit. Maybe not. What water pump are you using in order to get that much room between the pump nose and radiator? I've got the long nosed serpentine water pump. With the engine sitting at the firewall, between the nose of the pump and the core support, I have about 3 1/2 inches. I guess I will have enough room to use puller fans, but I like a lot of room so I will still probably use dual pusher fans.

Aside from the engine swap, I am also converting the shytty hydraulic clutch over to mustang cable setup. I have bitter feelings for the hydraulic setup. For now, I just want to get the engine and transmission in and hooked up to drive around town. Eventually, this will be a drag truck. My goal is to tub it and use a 8.8 rear end (cause I got one) with a ladder bar setup. Maybe one day I will change the front end to mustang II/pinto. I wish I had the time and money to do it all now. It would be so much easier to fit the motor with the mustang II front end. I have even thought about using a fox body k member. That would be sweet too. BTW, the only reason I am using the big windsor is because I had this one ready to install. I pulled it from my mustang two years ago. What headers/manifolds did you use with your windsor? The way I have my motor sitting now, the passenger side doesn't look to be too hard--we won't mention the driver's side. Thanks for the reply.
 

chvlfrk

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My setup>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I used a Griffin PN# 25182 4 core aluminum radiator, cutout the radiator area a lil' at the top, notched it for the fill spout/cap, and if fit right in the original radiator pocket..............I also use a standard flexfan.............they make the same radiator setup for Ford hose outlets.............just don't remember the PN.............SORRY!:icon_confused:



 

projectnitemare

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I'm using a standard v-belt water pump, nothing special other than it's a high flow pump. Like I mentioned earlier I have my radiator tucked under the core support. If you are going with an aftermarket aluminum radiator I would suggest that as well. My reasoning is instead of hanging what will be a heavier radiator on a flimzy piece of sheet metal you are then forcing yourself to make a better mounting system. No only will this get you room for whatever fan you desire but it will also provide a solid mount for the radiator. The pass. side isn't too bad for exhaust. I have a few sets of long tubes that will drop in on that side with no issues. The driver side is the problem. Every header I have tried hits the frame and the steering shaft. I am using some 60's manifolds that I dug out of my uncle's garage which happen to have some nice sized ports on them for being cast. I'm currently working out a set of headers as well as trying every set I can get my hands on. You might be bitter of the hydraulic clutch but I've never been a fan of the mustang's cable clutch. You can convert it pretty easily, a few guys here have done it. Each system has it's problems. Let me know how you make out.

Matt
 

ieatcamaros

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Chvlfrk (Chevelle Freak?), Thanks for the pic of your radiator setup. However, I had rather not seen the small block chevy part. I had some idea like that about the radiator support. I bet you deburred that cutout real good. That would suck to get cut just trying to add a little water.

Nitemare, I understand what you are saying about the radiator mount. To me, the ones on my ranger look good enough to support the aluminum radiator I wanted to use. Thanks for the heads up there. I'll look at them more closely.

I've got two sets of mustang long tube headers (fox body 351W swap specific headers). One set is BBK and the other are either hooker or hedman. They are not labeled. I am 90% sure I can get the pass side to work fairly easy. I am thinking of cutting up those hooker(?) to get something to work on the driver's side. I also have some Lincoln town car manifolds as a last resort. I don't know if those will work either, but they ought to be easier than the longtubes. I should just go ahead and put in the mustang II rack so I can use whatever I want for headers. I don't know anyone with an extra rack right now and I really don't want to get into that just yet anyway so I'll just fight the headers for now. My motor is not that built up yet either. According to desktop dyno, it makes about 300HP/375TQ not at the rear wheels obviously. As far as clutch is concerned, I have owned a mustang for 7 years and never had any issues with the cable system. I don't like the feel of hydraulic setup and they cost more to fix when they give trouble. Plus, I have 4 extra stock cables. That should last awhile. I plan to make a bracket to bolt to the clutch/brake pedal assy and use an aftermarket mustang quadrant.

On a side note, I beat the firewall in some more yesterday and now my accelerator pedal is pointed toward the brake pedal. Reckon I went too far?:D
 

chvlfrk

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Well>>>>>>>>>>>

Chvlfrk (Chevelle Freak?), Thanks for the pic of your radiator setup. However, I had rather not seen the small block chevy part. I had some idea like that about the radiator support. I bet you deburred that cutout real good. That would suck to get cut just trying to add a little water.
YES on the Chevelle Freak, I've owned 14 Chevelle/Malibu's to date.

As far as the SBC part, I went the cheap, reliable, massive parts availability route for the power.

YES, I deburred all of the cutout area, didn't want cut or to damage my aluminum radiator.

On a side note, I beat the firewall in some more yesterday and now my accelerator pedal is pointed toward the brake pedal. Reckon I went too far?:D
Went I moved my firewall back 3", I cut through the accelerator pedal mount and had to fabricate a new one..............so I can relate

If you would like to view my buildup of my 94, here's a link that shows from the day it arrived to current:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2179883

Get us some pics when ya get a chance PLEASE!!!
 

ieatcamaros

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You know, if you hadn't opted for the chevy motor, you wouldn't have had to do so much to the firewall. I don't hate on chevy's too much, but the one thing I hate the most about a chevy is the damn distributor in the back of the motor. The 3.0L and 2.9L ford v6's have that same illness. I don't like them either. Anyways, thanks for the link to your buildup. I enjoyed looking at it:icon_thumby:. I like what you did with the gauges. I took some pictures of my truck in pieces but my the batteries died in my camera while I was clicking away. When I connected it to the computer, I only had one valid image file. It is of the interior with dash removed. Get chassis/motor pics next week.
 


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