302 Swap on a 95

[Hsmcorey]

I may be new but I have read the tech posts and I am left with a few questions which is why im posting my questions. Im intending to build a 95 2wd ranger with a carburated 302 HO with a mild cam, an M5OD, and the 3.08 geared 8.8 from my 92 4.0.

1. I have a 95 2.3L with a 5 speed I am looking to build and a 92 4.0L with an auto which has a bad frame. I had a body lift picked out for the 92 but have realized that the 95 requires a different and much more expensive one. Does anyone know why this is? The frames seam to be identical.

2. Im sure the answer to question 1 will answer this but is there a reason I wouldn't be able to swap the 92 cab to the 95 frame?

3. I read that if you have the 4.0 drive shaft you can reuse them with an AOD. Would that also be true if your using the convertable fox body motor mounts and an M5OD?

4. I have read that a 4.0 radiator will support a stock 302, has anyone actually tried this? I would like to use the rad out of my 92 4.0 in my 95 but thought I would check before I pull it out and try it myself.

If anyone can see a problem or knows of any tips to same some time or money that I may have over looked please give all the suggestions and hints you can.

 

[JoshT]

1) Only thing I can think of is that the 95 kit might include some more expensive brackets to raise the bumper. AFIK the frames are the same between the same body style with the possible exception of the frame horns (where the front bumper mounts).

2) Might have been answered above. If both are the same body style then shouldn't be a problem. IE: both extended cab short bed, or both reg cab short bed.

3) I don't know, sorry. For my swap the donor will be a full explorer, and I'll be having the drive shaft shortened.

4) Plenty of people have used the 4.0L HD cooling radiator. This is the Heavy Duty radiator installed on trucks with automatic transmissions, A/C, and Tow Package. The core of these radiators is almost twice as thick as the standard 4.0L radiator. If you have this thicker radiator you should be fine, if not get one or go with a swap radiator.

The only tips I can think of are to drop the body lift, go EFI, and use 4.0L mounts with adapters. A body lift is not required for for the swap you are wanting to do. If you are getting it for the swap drop it from the plans, if you are getting it because you want it then by all means go ahead. An EFI 302 might cost a little more up front but it can save you in gas over time. Not telling you you have to go EFI, its just something to consider. The 4.0L mounts with adapter cost less than the mustang vert mounts from what I have heard. My understanding is that they will also set the motor lower and further back, giving more space for the radiator, fan, and FEAD (front end accessory drive (IE: alternator, water pump, etc)). I'm not using the 4.0L mounts myself so I can'd provide any personal insight on this. Years ago picked up a set of L&L mounts a guy had sitting on his shelf that he had used for a couple mock-ups, they were only $100 so I couldn't pass it up.

 

[Hsmcorey]

Thanks for the info. Im not a fan of the 5.0 EFI personally, I know there are a lot of good points but if Im going to go EFI I would rather use a stand alone system and thats not in the budget at the moment (plus the carb and intake are sitting on a shelf in the garage waiting to be used). Which adapters are you talking about for the 4.0 mounts? The reason for the body lift is that 1 Im using the f-150 trans and want more space for the bell housing, 2 want the extra space above the carb, and 3 think it gives it a little meaner look. I do have the larger rad so I may just try that and see how it goes, I can always swap in an aftermarket one later if I need it.

 

[dangerranger83]

I just fit a 5.0 and a np435 in my truck and the bellhousing clears just fine and have plenty of space behind it. I did have to cut my floor to fit the shift assembly, they are huge on the np435s and are way forward of the factory location on ranger trans, 1-2 inch body lift may have made my life a bit easier but Im not worried.

 

[JoshT]

To each his own, I feel the same way about people telling me to go carbed instead of EFI on my 86. Just so you know the mustang EFI system can be set-up to be stand alone, and just takes a few wires connected to the truck to work. If carbed is what you want then use it, you can always swap back to EFI later if you decide to.

The adapters are just steel plate adapters that allow a 5.0L to be bolted to 4.0L motor mounts. You can find more info on them in the tech library, V-8 Engine Conversions, look for the section on making you own motor mounts. Contrary to what that article implies, a lot of members here and on other sited have used this set-up and have had great results.

Are you aware that the M5OD-R1 came stock in Rangers? The F-150 used an M5OD-R2. I'm not sure but the bell housings may be the same size, and once again you wouldn't need to install a body lift to clear. In fact I can not think of anyone that had to use a body lift for any 5.0 & trans combo if they used the right motor-mounts (those are the key to setting the motor low. You also won't need a body lit for the carb unless you are using one heck of a high rise intake. As with the carb don't let me stop you from doing what you want to do, just know it isn't a necessity.

Something to think about with that transmission the shifter is going to be way up close to the dash. From what I've heard the 4.2L V6 had the same transmission, and same bell housing, but the shifter was further back on the transmission. If you already have the transmission I've also heard that the top cover (where the shifter mounts) can be swapped from the 4.2L trans to the 5.0L trans.