302 rad/cooling pics/ideas

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've heard of people cutting them off before.. I'd go for it. Just keep a bucket of icewater handy with a rag in it. Place the rag on the pump shaft immediately after cutting. Or when you've made it half way through the cut, to let it cool. Then start again.

You wouldn't be able to turn it in for a core charge if you ever needed. That's the only drawback I see..


GB

Another thought I just had, I have heard of people run 302's on stock 96+ single core 4.0 radiators, maybe go to one of those and run a mechanical fan (I have an Explorer fan/clutch) I need to see of those that went that route retained A/C though... they are not much bigger than what I have. Even a '85 F-150 with about the same height and 9" wider specs a two row with A/C.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

As far as cooling systems go, the bigger the better. The more coolant you can hold and the larger the radiator, the better. Worth taking the time to look in to..


I'm a big fan of mechanical fans regardless of horsepower loss. I always have been. They worked perfectly for how many decades?? lol


GB

 

[bobbywalter]

It did have A/C at some point but has never had functioning A/C since I got the truck.

When I got the truck it was only missing the condenser and the hoses going to the condenser. It has devolved to the point the only A/C part on the truck at the moment is the dash panel.

After pulling a dash it wouldn't really be hard to swap that if required.

I like the coverage of my pusher but the puller variant is 3.18 deep and as it sits I have about 2.25" of room. A wild thought I had last night was if I could cut the threaded boss off the water pump that would get me nearly an inch of room. Water pump is about in the center of the radiator.

plenty of room for a condenser.


or you can mount a condenser under the bed with a fat bastard fan like that one on it. thats what i used to do when i used gen 1 ac condensers for a trans cooler.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I was doing some reading here prior to making this post, now I'm a dangerous! Lol. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-1204-cooling-system-basics/

I'm no engine swap expert, but an air conditioning condenser is not likely to overheat very many of your vehicles using larger radiators, jus sayin

Another thought I just had, I have heard of people run 302's on stock 96+ single core 4.0 radiators, maybe go to one of those and run a mechanical fan (I have an Explorer fan/clutch) I need to see of those that went that route retained A/C though... they are not much bigger than what I have. Even a '85 F-150 with about the same height and 9" wider specs a two row with A/C.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

As far as cooling systems go, the bigger the better. The more coolant you can hold and the larger the radiator, the better. Worth taking the time to look in to..


I'm a big fan of mechanical fans regardless of horsepower loss. I always have been. They worked perfectly for how many decades?? lol


GB

I am still feeling out options. If I could get the radiator ahead a half an inch I would have half an inch between the radiator and the fan clutch. If I found a single row that worked I would gain an inch. Because of the bigger battery, oil filter and condenser fittings I am limited on width. Hard to find a taller single row radiator but thanks to my bodylift heightwise I have a lot of room vertically before anything pokes out the bottom.

plenty of room for a condenser.


or you can mount a condenser under the bed with a fat bastard fan like that one on it. thats what i used to do when i used gen 1 ac condensers for a trans cooler.

Tons of room for condenser yes, tons of room for condenser and efan... no.

I don't think it would live long and prosper under my truck with as much gravel as I drive.

I was doing some reading here prior to making this post, now I'm a dangerous! Lol. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-1204-cooling-system-basics/

I'm no engine swap expert, but an air conditioning condenser is not likely to overheat very many of your vehicles using larger radiators, jus sayin

Its not so much the condenser itself mucking things up it is that I have to remove a fan to install the condenser.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I am still feeling out options. If I could get the radiator ahead a half an inch I would have half an inch between the radiator and the fan clutch. If I found a single row that worked I would gain an inch. Because of the bigger battery, oil filter and condenser fittings I am limited on width. Hard to find a taller single row radiator but thanks to my bodylift heightwise I have a lot of room vertically before anything pokes out the bottom.



Tons of room for condenser yes, tons of room for condenser and efan... no.

I don't think it would live long and prosper under my truck with as much gravel as I drive.



Its not so much the condenser itself mucking things up it is that I have to remove a fan to install the condenser.

I've often wondered why they've never developed a separate condenser away from the radiator for automotive air conditioning, the fan issue electrically should not be a big problem, because they are, if I'm not mistaken, permanent magnet motors with very low draw?

 

[bobbywalter]

Tons of room for condenser yes, tons of room for condenser and efan... no.

I don't think it would live long and prosper under my truck with as much gravel as I drive.



Its not so much the condenser itself mucking things up it is that I have to remove a fan to install the condenser.

just like it is the fan and condenser will fit.


sure there will be some light mods to do, but it will fit.

 

[bobbywalter]

easy.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've often wondered why they've never developed a separate condenser away from the radiator for automotive air conditioning, the fan issue electrically should not be a big problem, because they are, if I'm not mistaken, permanent magnet motors with very low draw?

In front of the radiator it gets all the cool air it could want, if needed it can piggy back off the regular cooling fan and is fairly safe.

OEM's don't care about us engine swappers and most swappers don't retain A/C if they even have it to start with. And as vehicles get more complex fewer people are going to be swapping engines anyway.

easy.

I have scouted out that prospect too.

Remove the lower mounts, trim out the lip of the core support, fab new lower mounts, make drop down upper brackets, trim the panels that funnel air to the radiator and I think it would work.

 

[Denisefwd93]

What's the jury's opinion on electric water pumps instead of belt driven?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What's the jury's opinion on electric water pumps instead of belt driven?

Icky.

My opinion anyway. Belt driven just leak. Electric have a motor/wiring to go bad in addition to the leak potential.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^^, for daily driver

If you were deleting fan belt entirely, custom build, then they make sense.

But if you will still use alternator on the engine then might as well use the belt driven water pump.

Electric water pump has two advantages over belt driven, pretty much the same advantages as electric radiator fan does.
The on/off is controlled by thermostat so only used when needed, frees up power for rear wheels
They continue to cool when engine RPMs are low, i.e. after high load engine running when you stop engine is still HOT from the high load driving but belt driven fan or water pump is now running at lower speeds, so engine temp will go up briefly
With electric, cooling continues the same as it was with high load driving, because its temp controlled not RPM controlled.

Not sure if one is safer that the other, fan belts break and electric connections can too
And yes either can leak

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yes, +1 ^^^^, for daily driver

If you were deleting fan belt entirely, custom build, then they make sense.

But if you will still use alternator on the engine then might as well use the belt driven water pump.

Electric water pump has two advantages over belt driven, pretty much the same advantages as electric radiator fan does.
The on/off is controlled by thermostat so only used when needed, frees up power for rear wheels
They continue to cool when engine RPMs are low, i.e. after high load engine running when you stop engine is still HOT from the high load driving but belt driven fan or water pump is now running at lower speeds, so engine temp will go up briefly
With electric, cooling continues the same as it was with high load driving, because its temp controlled not RPM controlled.

Not sure if one is safer that the other, fan belts break and electric connections can too
And yes either can leak

Pretty much any parts store has a belt though.

Yeah, for high performance stuff they can make sense. I am more in the dd category though and have no interest.

Some food for thought on radiators:

2002 5.4 automatic F-150 A/C the whole bit. My dd and has never faltered for temp.

17-1/16" x 31-7/8" single row core = 544 square inches

2007 4.0 Ranger:

23-3/4"x20-3/4" single row core = 492 square inches

So basically 50 square inches smaller than the factory 5.4 radiator...

And when I went to confirm which radiator was in my F-150 I did notice the top radiator brackets have the same oval shape for pins coming out of the radiator that the lower mounts on my Ranger has, and they bolt on. So depending on what I do they may be sought for a easy radiator mount.

 

[bobbywalter]

25 min.


2 cuts. 3 straps with 4 bends. mild grindage to grille volutes possibly.



a/c rules when its hotterdenfawkout.


















electric water pumps?




no.



sometimes my truck runs for days. its those times i would rather also have a mechanical fan. coolant flow has to be constant.


for light dutyy its an option i guess.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've often wondered why they've never developed a separate condenser away from the radiator for automotive air conditioning, the fan issue electrically should not be a big problem, because they are, if I'm not mistaken, permanent magnet motors with very low draw?

I forgot, IH did that with some of their tractors. They have the condenser hanging off the back of the cab. I was reminded of this today because a guy came in wanting new fan motors for his 1066 because his are making a godawful noise.

25 min.


2 cuts. 3 straps with 4 bends. mild grindage to grille volutes possibly.



a/c rules when its hotterdenfawkout.

Three straps?

I had it in my head to have two straps on the top and utilize the same pin and slot arrangement from the factory on the bottom so the radiator can shift around if it needs to.

Even 100* isn't bad if you are in the shade with a nice breeze. With the rear slider I can get plenty of air movement going down the highway. Problem is it messes up the wife's hair and trying to talk back and forth is about the same as a WWI trainer aircraft.