302 conversion help needed

[geoph1986]

First off, what an excellent site, I'm glad I found it.

OK, I've read numerous posts, & have also checked the in the tech section.

Here's my situation/question.

I have a 1983 Ranger 4X4, w/ a 2.8l, & 4 speed manual trans. I want to put a carbed 302 w/ an auto trans (3 or 4 speed) into it.

What do I need exactly (motor mounts, adapters, etc.)?
What be be the best donor vehicles for my wants?

I've read that you can use full size F-150 motor, trans, and transfer case.
Do I have to relocate my transfer case? Custom trans mount? Relocated crossmember?

I don't want anything to do with computers or massive wiring conversions.
I have done motor swaps before, but never a conversion.

A complete list of what's needed and a step by step instruction tutorial would be ideal if anyone could help me with this.

I live in Canada and this vehicle is excempt from any smog laws.

Any & all help is greatly appreciated. Thanx

 

[Ranger5.0]

what part of canada are you from?

 

[mudranger]

Explorer/mountaineer 4x4 v8. to go with a carbed setup, you will have to swap the intake, add a carb, go to another ignition box (like an msd) and swap the distributor.
This is basically the swap I did on my 84 2wd, but I used a mustang gt HO motor and an aod trans.
Since you are going w/ a 4x4 setup, the exploder/mountaineer is your easiest route. the yards are full of em'. you're gonna need a set of mustang convertible mounts, and some shorty headers. an oil filter relocation kit is a must. the cooling system from the donor exploder will work, but is a tight fit. Also, if you ever thought of doing a body lift, nows the time, the extra 3" will help alot.
You're right, this is a great site. 4 years ago when first found my way here, all I wanted was a fix to a fuel problem on my old 2.0 4-banger....Last summer, I finished the V8 swap into that same truck, and I couldn't have done it without these guys.

 

[geoph1986]

Firstly, Thanks for the replies. I am going to give it a bit of a body lift (3"-4"). If I use an explorer/mountaineer, do I need to relocate my transfer case? or should I take the motor, trans, & transfer case from the donor? I would like to keep a manual shift transfer case. If I don't need to relocate my transfer case, do I need an adapter to mate the trans to the transfer case? Do I need to mod the lengths of my driveshafts? What physical modifications do I have to perform to my truck to get this to fit?

What exactly are mustang "convertible" mounts?

Is there a place that I could find step by step instructions w/ pics? I'm fairly mechanically handy, but have never done an engine conversion before (it's a little intimidating, but very possible). I just want to make sure that I know exactly what I'm getting into before I start.

BTW, I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba. The truck came from Minnesota, and was totally exempt from the registry of imported vehicles, because of it's age.

 

[projectnitemare]

I will have a few differing opinions on this but you don't need to find a V8 mountaineer or explorer. All you would be using from it would be the engine and maybe the exhaust manifolds. Being you want a carbed 302 any 302/ 5.0L will work just fine, add the intake and carb of your choice. You want a 3 or 4 speed auto, the only choices that aren't computer controlled are the C4 and C6 are the 3 speeds and the AOD is the 4 speed. They were all offered in fullsizes in fullsizes at verious points in time. The newest AOD you can use would be from 94, after that it is electronically controlled. Use a post 70 C4 due to revisions, bigger input shaft and pump revisions. Just about any C6 is good; they use up more power than the other two. If you decide to rebuild it I would suggest a lower geared aftermarket planetary and convert the thrust washers to bearings; that will make it much more efficient. As far as engine mounts you can make what you need for under $20 at most. There are templates in the tech artices for how to make V8 mounts from 1/4 in steel plate. They are cheap and work well. You can use the stock trans crossmember; you will have to move it though. The t-case might take a little searching. The older NP205 will fit with not mods other than a support bracket. The NP208 will fit with a little trimming of protruding tabs on the t-case and sometimes a little shaving on the bottom of the frame rail. The BW 1356 can be made to fit but you will be cutting some frame. A body lift makes things easier but it isn't required. Pretty much all the F-150 stuff will fit with very little cutting, manual or auto, the only thing that doesn't fit well is the Borg Warner t-case and the 5 speed ZF trans. You will have to make your own driveshafts as well. As far as wiring you can loose all the Ranger engine stuff. You can use a factory duraspark system, they work ok but an MSD works better in my opinion. You can do it as cheap or expensive as you need. I've seen swaps done for $1500 that ran decent and I've done one that cost me over $8k They can eat cash fast.

Matt

 

[geoph1986]

OK, since this build has to be done on the cheap, I've decided that the best route for me to go would be to get a donor car that has a C4 or an AOD trans, like an 80's grand marquis (or something similar). I'll swap the manifold for a carbed setup, and probably go with the MSD ignition.

MOTOR MOUNTS:
I've read the tech article on the 1/4" plate motor mount adapters. Will these connect properly to my 2.8l mounts, like they do on 3.0l & 4.0l mounts?

TRANSMISSION.
I want to keep my floor shifter.
Where is the best place to get trans to t/c adapter? I know about James Duff, Advance Adapters, etc...But which adapter will give me least amount of hassle, both with durability & install mods like shifter linkage? My understanding is that the adapter will keep my t/c in the stock location.

T/C
I believe I have a BG1350 t/c. Typically, will these handle the power of a 302? What is recommended? The motor will remain mainly stock with the exception of an intake, carb, and ignition system.

AXLES
I have the stock Dana 28 setup, and would like to upgrade both axles to something a bit bigger/better. What donors would be a direct bolt in swap?

FUEL PUMP
I would also like to retain a mechanical fuel pump. I've read that the 1970-1973 Econoline vans used a Carter pump that is made upside down to clear the steering box.

This truck is going to continue being my daily driver, but I still want it to be able to handle a little bit of a beating now & then.

 

[Ranger5.0]

why all this talk about Carbs? bump up the cool factor and go with EFI, plus, if you do any exciting wheeling, then you will like the EFI, not to mention better fuel milage. As far as parts holding up, thats related to which engine you end up with, some have like 170 hp, other have 220ish. I juss wedged in a AOD and the T case both from the same truck. I dont think 2.8 engine mounts would survive long but maybe. I realize you want to run on the cheep, like most of us, but a little more now it better then juss scratching by, and then having to replace and upgrade parts later on.

 

[PARKINGLOT]

hey Ranger5.0, did you ever make a build thread for your rig? how does the AOD and 1356 fit in there, and what kind mileage you get cruising around in that thing?

 

[projectnitemare]

I don't remember if the 2.8 lower mounts are the same as the 2.9L but I believe they are. If not you will need the lower mounts from a 2.9L or a 4.0L. That setup will work fine, I've fed over 500hp though them and they haven't ripped off yet. Don't convert a 2wd trans to 4x4, you will have to pretty much rebuild it. Start with a 4x4 trans, it will save you in the long run. The AA kit to keep the stock BW1350 isn't cheap, around $500. So if you use a fullsize transmission you can use a full size t-case, if you stay older than 88 you will most likely find a NP208 or a 205 in the bigger trucks. For axles a Ranger Dana 35 is pretty much a bolt in for the Dana 28, the front driveshaft needs to be shortened about an inch. The 8.8 is a bolt in deal to replace the 7.5 rear. The econoline pump will work. Go to the parts store and ask to see it beside a car or truck pump, it will look almost upside down of the car or truck one.

Matt

 

[Ranger5.0]

ParkingLot, no, no build thread. Its been 5 years since it was done. I was getting ausome milage on the highway untill the engine started to die. Im gonna try and take a lot of pics of everything this coming week then i replace the engine. The trany fit without much work, just had to hammer the seam for the florpan/firewall. The T case was a bit harder, I had to do some triming of the frame to get it in, it pritty much takes up all the space between the rails, and there is about 6in between the back of the case and the fuel tank, so im not to sure how it would work in a regular cab truck.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

there is an article in tech about using the output shaft from a c-5 to a c-4 and keeping your t-case.thats what i did.droped right in.
use the stang convertable mounts with a plate to move the mount forward and you can bolt the tranny mount right where it was.
to me the 3" body lift was well worth the extra room.
http://http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/85rangerv-8/?action=view&current=2a0342cf.flv

 

[projectnitemare]

That is an option I didn't mention. The RBV C5 is becoming very hard to find. If you can find the tailshaft and housing you set. Just get the transmission rebuilt while the tailshaft is being swapped and you won't have any problems. I tried finding those parts when I did my swap and couldn't find them. I'm glad I didn't because I would have probably exploded a Ranger t-case. That's something to think about if you are planning to someday add some power.

Matt

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

that may be a problem for me.......i built this truck for mud........a lot of wheel spin.

the local circle track is going to open a sand drag track next year..........might change my mind.lol

 

[geoph1986]

I want a carbed setup because I don't want to have to deal with computer crap. I've had many carbed vehicles and I find they are the easiest to work on (for me at least). If I were to go EFI I would probably just use a 4.0l because there is alot less modifying (as I understand it), but then there's the wiring nightmare to deal with.
I don't really want to start cutting into my frame to mount a transfercase. I'm fine with moving crossmembers, but if I don't have to, it would be all the better.
The only reason that I am wanting to do a conversion is because my motor is shot (running on 5 cylinders), and since I'm going to replace it I want something a little more fun.
This all sounds a bit more complicated than I had originally thought. I have to do more research to see which route I'm going to go now. Do I drop in a 4.0l and convert the fuel system, and electrical? or do I drop in a V8, eliminate wiring, and mod (what seems to be everything) mounting points, drive shafts, axles, etc.
I feel like I'm back at square one...what to do...

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

sit down and make a list of both swaps................then spend some more time doing the research on both