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302 and T5 questions

Anthony B22

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alright so the 99 2wd is getting a 5.0 and a t5 less then a month before prom, i’m already aware of the shifter location issue and am working to address it but i’m wondering if/what anyone knows about what else i’ll run into as far as: engine mounts, trans mounts, drive shaft (wether one needs to be custom made or is already compatible), hydraulic slave conversion, headers and some other misc things. i’d appreciate ANY and ALL info you experienced ranger fans can provide me with please and thank you, i have a month and two days to have this thing cruisin
 


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dvdswan

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Cool. Take lots of pictures.
 

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Anthony B22

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Nothing wrong with a T5
If its from a Mustang the gear ratios are a little different that what you were used to in the truck transmission
1st is not quite as low(high) so you will need to REV a bit more to get going
And OD ratio will make the RPM a bit lower at say 70MPH which is good for MPG but not for going up hills, lol

Not a big deal at all, just a heads up
 

Anthony B22

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Nothing wrong with a T5
If its from a Mustang the gear ratios are a little different that what you were used to in the truck transmission
1st is not quite as low(high) so you will need to REV a bit more to get going
And OD ratio will make the RPM a bit lower at say 70MPH which is good for MPG but not for going up hills, lol

Not a big deal at all, just a heads up
makes no difference to me, my only concern is making the truck run and drive, anything on the drive shaft you know? that’s my biggest thing right now, i can cut and weld brackets and sheet metal all day long but i cannot make a driveshaft. i have an explorer 8.8 out of a 98 and a t5 out of an 84 mustang + a 302 out of an 85. i also am not sure which slave cylinder to use to get full engage and disengagement of the clutch, stock ranger one maybe? calibrated to the throw of the pedal is my thought process
 

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I think my 88 mustang 5.0 T5 had a cable activated clutch not hydraulic. That may be an issue.
Lots of pictures please. (Truck Porn)
 

don4331

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OK, I'm not sure you couldn't sell your T5 for more than a M5OD-R2, but you want to do the T5.
M5OD-R2 has the advantage of slave cylinder, transmission mounts and driveshaft just work (just explaining why I went with F150 transmission).​

The ideal for positioning the T5 shifter is to get an S-10 T5 and pull the output housing off it and replace the Mustang one. Alternatively, the shifter will be right at the front of the 60/40 seat - not end of world if you remove the center seat (cut up the structure/foam and/or use seat cover from a 2nd passenger seat - depends how anal you are about the tilt hole on the inside of the seat/how good you are with needle and thread). Cover the existing hole with automatic tunnel cover, replace carpet with automatic carpet, just cut new holes in tunnel/carpet where your shifter sits.

Engine mounts - there's diagram out there on how to cut/bend them done by Ford Ranger engineer, let em see if I can find it. I could sell you a pair.
Exhaust - 85 Mustang 5.0 is going to put outputs in wrong locations for easy install (as you can weld, start with looking a Explorer headers to get it running, you can always come back and make it pretty).
Slave cylinder - Nissan slave with some brackets has been the most common that I have seen. M5OD-Rx (Ranger or F-150) slave will not work -there's nothing to bolt it to on the T5, the distances with standard bellhousing are wrong.
I assume you have a 99 wiring manual so you can remove the PATS, etc to work with a carb'd engine.
 

Anthony B22

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i would get a f150 transmission but i cannot track one down nor do i have the time to sell mine and find one, i think i have the headers figured out and i heard the a ford probe turbo slave cylinder works and they’re only 15$ so i think i’m gonna test my luck, i got a bucket seat to take care of the shifter location and what not. only loose end now is if the driveshaft will fit or not.. what is “pats”?
 

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PATS is Passive Anti-Theft System, its not an "alarm" its passive, which means all it will do is disable the fuel injectors unless the correct key is used in the ignition, no horn honks or lights flashing just no start
Also known as Ford Securilock
It can also disable starter motor and fuel pump, but these are easy to by-pass, can't by-pass no injectors

PATS was optional in Ford models starting in 1996 Mustangs
In Rangers 1998 was optional and 1999 V6 and up it was standard equipment
Until 2001 PATS was a separate module, above glove box in Rangers, it was connected to the V6 engine computer and the computer would not pulse the fuel injectors unless PATS module gave it an "OK to Start" message

PATS keys have a black plastic handle with an RFID chip(transponder chip) embedded inside
The ignition cylinder would have a Ring/antenna around it, called a transceiver, when the key was turned on the PATS module would read the "chip" unique number, and compare that number to the 3 or 4 numbers(keys) that were programmed in at the factory
If it found a match, engine could be started, no match and no start

If you are changing computers, like in a V8 swap, then you will need to know if the new computer requires PATS "OK" to work, which is by YEAR of computer
PATS module and computer at "matched set" so you can't just swap in a new computer, programming is needed
If new computer doesn't require PATS then, in a Ranger, all you need to do is to Ground the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box to restore Key Start
 

Anthony B22

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PATS is Passive Anti-Theft System, its not an "alarm" its passive, which means all it will do is disable the fuel injectors unless the correct key is used in the ignition, no horn honks or lights flashing just no start
Also known as Ford Securilock
It can also disable starter motor and fuel pump, but these are easy to by-pass, can't by-pass no injectors

PATS was optional in Ford models starting in 1996 Mustangs
In Rangers 1998 was optional and 1999 V6 and up it was standard equipment
Until 2001 PATS was a separate module, above glove box in Rangers, it was connected to the V6 engine computer and the computer would not pulse the fuel injectors unless PATS module gave it an "OK to Start" message

PATS keys have a black plastic handle with an RFID chip(transponder chip) embedded inside
The ignition cylinder would have a Ring/antenna around it, called a transceiver, when the key was turned on the PATS module would read the "chip" unique number, and compare that number to the 3 or 4 numbers(keys) that were programmed in at the factory
If it found a match, engine could be started, no match and no start

If you are changing computers, like in a V8 swap, then you will need to know if the new computer requires PATS "OK" to work, which is by YEAR of computer
PATS module and computer at "matched set" so you can't just swap in a new computer, programming is needed
If new computer doesn't require PATS then, in a Ranger, all you need to do is to Ground the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box to restore Key Start
mine had the 4 cyl i believe (not sure i bought it as a rolling shell with no engine/trans), but regard the engine is going to be carbureted so the ecu has been removed and so will the fuel pump fuse because of the mechanical fuel pump
 

Anthony B22

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photos for those of you who where asking, the picture of the whole truck is what it looked like when i got it vs how it’s sitting right now, 8.8 has been installed currently waiting for DJM from drop kit in the mail
 

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don4331

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Assuming your location is your zip - there would be 1/2 a dozen M5OD-R2 within 20 miles of you for less than $250 according to https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi (Just saying, no pushing.

Probe slave should work - don't know the exact specs, but it looks the part.
 

Anthony B22

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i’ll definitely keep that in mind if the t5 goes but i have it and the parts for it so i’m gonna use it
 

franklin2

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makes no difference to me, my only concern is making the truck run and drive, anything on the drive shaft you know? that’s my biggest thing right now, i can cut and weld brackets and sheet metal all day long but i cannot make a driveshaft. i have an explorer 8.8 out of a 98 and a t5 out of an 84 mustang + a 302 out of an 85. i also am not sure which slave cylinder to use to get full engage and disengagement of the clutch, stock ranger one maybe? calibrated to the throw of the pedal is my thought process
With all those donors, do you have any of the driveshafts? You can easily shorten a driveshaft yourself. Will it be perfect, maybe not. Will it work? Usually does.

If you need to shorten the shaft, just take a grinder and grind out the weld on the very end of the shaft. Make a small groove where the weld was located, and then take a chisel and start driving the end out of the shaft. You should see a crack start developing if you did enough grinding. Then just drive the end out of the shaft. Make note of it's position on the shaft before you take it all the way off so you can clock it back in the right place.

Cut the tube to the required length. Try to get this cut as square as possible. Then drive the end back into the tube that you took out.

Install the shaft in place. You will need a dial indicator. You can get one from Harbor Freight. Mount it to the frame or the body so it just touches the shaft, and then turn the shaft by hand, tapping on it to get the least amount of runout. Once you get it as good a you can, put a tack weld on the end. Check and tap on it if it needs it to keep the runout down, and tack it again opposite the first tack. Once you get 4 tacks on it and the runout is good, take it back out and fully weld it.
 

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