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30-31 Model A


Ramcharger90

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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

Ramcharger90

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68060


68061


Cut the reliefs in the frame for the rear axle. Also tacked some body mount plate to the frame in some areas, I need to do 4 more 2 under the seat and 2 behind the seat. But the body has to come off for that.
 

Ramcharger90

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No because that quarter inch thick pipe that will be burned in adds alot of strength.

Also I have a bunch more quarter inch thick plates I can add in if need be after getting them cut the right size and holes punched for plug welds.


Again my buddy has been building these cars and others for over 30 years. So I'm going to go with what he is teaching me.

So if you're running coil overs, that mount behind the rear axle, and they mount to the frame behind the rear axle, haven't you just cut all the strength out of the frame?
 

scotts90ranger

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The pipe won't do a whole lot for the bending strength of the frame, but then again it's a light vehicle not getting hundreds of thousands of miles put on it... a plate on the inside where it's out of sight wouldn't be a bad idea...
 

Roert42

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That's actually some very interesting information.

However, it seems that if it's done correctly a pipe notch can be just as strong if not stronger then the stock frame rail.
 

Blmpkn

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For something that's not going to haul a load, tow a trailer, or be jumped... a pipe notch is absolutely more than andequate. Especially if plated on the inside.
 

Ramcharger90

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68119


68120


68121


Made a jig and started on my 4 link and panhard bar. Also the mount on the diff for the panhard bar.
 

Ramcharger90

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Picked up a 72 (I believe) 351W also dug out the broken T5 for mock up.

I am gonna get this motor punched out real good if its one of the good ones. Probably 427ci.... if it isnt any good I got a roller 351w coming also because the price is right. I will go 363ci or 408ci all forged internals incase I get a big old 671 style blower.

I'm going to get a Tremec TKX or a built tremec to handle the power, its only about 1.3 inches difference in length so I'm going to make my trans mount adjustable.



68155


68156


68157


68158
 

Ramcharger90

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Started on the 4 link got the bottom ones and frame mount tacked on need to make the coil over mounts for the rear yet and tack the top ones on

68306


68307


68308


68309


Also put my steering rod on for now so we can roll it around after the ftont end is assembled the rest of the way.

68310
 

19Walt93

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I feel better now seeing at least one component with rust on it.
 

Ramcharger90

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68458


Stripped the 351w down a lil bit and bolted the T5 up for mock up.
 

19Walt93

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Keep in mind that 351's all had 28.2 oz imbalance cranks when you get the flywheel. 70's distributors had slow/retarded centrifugal advance curves so recurving it will make a huge difference. I assume you'll be rebuilding it, a 72 would have had a silent timing chain and nylon tooth cam gear, both of those fit nicely in a scrap metal box. I think a 72 used rail rockers, if so you'll save valve guide wear by using hardened pushrods and guide plates. Better heads would be a bigger improvement, even stock E7TE heads.
 

Ramcharger90

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Keep in mind that 351's all had 28.2 oz imbalance cranks when you get the flywheel. 70's distributors had slow/retarded centrifugal advance curves so recurving it will make a huge difference. I assume you'll be rebuilding it, a 72 would have had a silent timing chain and nylon tooth cam gear, both of those fit nicely in a scrap metal box. I think a 72 used rail rockers, if so you'll save valve guide wear by using hardened pushrods and guide plates. Better heads would be a bigger improvement, even stock E7TE heads.
This one is getting dropped off at a engine builder when its time. If the block is good enough its probably going to 427ci so everything but the block and maybe the pulleys are gonna be replaced. I may clean the old pulleys up and paint or get them chromed, Not sure yet. Probably AFR heads, high lift short duration cam, and forged internals
 

19Walt93

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Engine Size
351
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2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
A 72 block should be OK, 302's got .023" extra deck height from 73-6 to sink the piston in the hole and lower compression and I think 351's might have as well. If you're not going to rev it beyond 6k, hypereutectic pistons are lighter and can be fitted tighter to avoid cold engine noise. And as a bonus they're cheaper so you can use the savings to convert to a roller cam, conversion roller lifters aren't cheap but they're worth it.
I may have to build a street rod after all, watching your progress got me interested again.
 

Ramcharger90

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A 72 block should be OK, 302's got .023" extra deck height from 73-6 to sink the piston in the hole and lower compression and I think 351's might have as well. If you're not going to rev it beyond 6k, hypereutectic pistons are lighter and can be fitted tighter to avoid cold engine noise. And as a bonus they're cheaper so you can use the savings to convert to a roller cam, conversion roller lifters aren't cheap but they're worth it.
I may have to build a street rod after all, watching your progress got me interested again.
As much as I want and would like to save money..... I am always planning for the future of the engine. Just like with my rangers 5.0 I got the short block built to handle a blower even though right now its just P heads and a letter cam. But I have a top end kit that is more for boosted applications from trickflow with the head size and cam. And I have a blower on my mustang that will be collecting dust once the 363 goes in that. So the blower is going on the ranger and the mustang is staying N/A and this roadster since its a fair weather car it will most likely get a 671 blower at some point. The builder will know what needs to be done even if its a lower compression 427 or 408 the same way the do a low compression 347 its gonna run like an animal even before the blower is on it.
 


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