3.0L timing chain change-- remove front bumper and grill?

[2002rangerv6xlt]

Gents, I'm going to change my timing chain on my 3.0L and am thinking about just removing the front bumper and grill to make things easier. From other posts I gather this is pretty straightforward. Any thoughts?

I'm changing the chain because I have a rattling noise that initiates when my throttle input changes sharply from low to mid throttle position. I performed a compression test and everything came back fine. My tranny is also fine, so I'm guessing it's the timing chain.

I'm also planning on changing my coolant lines, the water pump, power steering seals (one is leaking) and the oil pan gasket while I have things torn down.

Do you guys recommend replacing anything else as preventative maintenance? I've got about 170,000 mi on my truck now and want to keep it going.

 

[adsm08]

With all you are talking about doing it wod probably ve less work to take the engine out.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[2002rangerv6xlt]

Taking the engine out is easier than removing the front bumper and grill? I'm skeptical.

Also, I've heard that the front radiator mount bracket is welded. Any intel on that? If so there is no point to removing the grill / bumper.

 

[aspevacek]

there is a radiator and cor esupport behind the radiator if you have A/C there is also a condensor to deal with and the proper recovery of the freon.

Also you mention oilpan gasket which is way easier to deal with on a stand and not under the truck.

 

[adsm08]

The rad core support is indeed welded to the inner fender structure.
The oil pan gasket is what makes it easier to pull the engine out. Otherwise you just take the air ducting out and work from the top.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[2002rangerv6xlt]

Thanks guys. Looks like the grill / bumper pull is a no go.

What makes the oil pan gasket so challenging from beneath the truck? Are there clearance issues or is it just generally a pain since you're underneath? I noticed a little sweating around the gasket surface but the truck really isn't losing oil, so I may just forget about doing the drain pan gasket if it's a huge pain.

 

[rangerbum]

I know on the i beam trucks (97 and older) the oil pan issue is because the I beam x-member is in the way and makes it impossible to work the pan past the pump. Not sure on your truck being that it has a-arms.

 

[2002rangerv6xlt]

I know on the i beam trucks (97 and older) the oil pan issue is because the I beam x-member is in the way and makes it impossible to work the pan past the pump. Not sure on your truck being that it has a-arms.

Roger that. I crawled under the truck and removing the pan with the engine in the truck is a no go as folks have mentioned-- thanks for the warnings. There is a frame piece that doesn't allow for much clearance.

 

[2002rangerv6xlt]

Alright guys, one last question for everyone: should I replace my harmonic balancer? I have to remove it for the timing chain service, so I'm wondering if I should replace it. They're about $40 on amazon or rock auto. My truck has a little under 171,000 mi at this point.

 

[locovaca]

Alright guys, one last question for everyone: should I replace my harmonic balancer? I have to remove it for the timing chain service, so I'm wondering if I should replace it. They're about $40 on amazon or rock auto. My truck has a little under 171,000 mi at this point.

No, there really isn't any need. If it looks good still then it's still good.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You're sure this isn't spark knock of pinging that the 3.0L is famous for?

 

[kukaepe]

I think you get an indication of timing chain slop via watching the camshaft syncronizer. I'm thinking you can take the top off the syncronizer and rotate the engine in one direction until you see the rotor turns, mark or note the position of the crank pulley and then rotate the crank in the other direction. Watch the amount of crankshaft rotation until the rotor turns again. If the timing chain is sloppy the crank pulley will rotate significantly prior to the rotor turning again. If the syncronizer rotor moves right away when you rotate the crank the other direction, your timing chain is tight. I hope this is some help.

 

[Hatty]

You're sure this isn't spark knock of pinging that the 3.0L is famous for?

The reason you get the spark knock or pinging is bc the IAT sensor is bad. Intake Air Temperature is what it stands for. My truck 2000 ranger 3.0 did this and changed IAT and no more pinging or spark knock easy fix and cheap it's in the tube going to breather box

 

[pjtoledo]

The reason you get the spark knock or pinging is bc the IAT sensor is bad. Intake Air Temperature is what it stands for. My truck 2000 ranger 3.0 did this and changed IAT and no more pinging or spark knock easy fix and cheap it's in the tube going to breather box

you have just replied to a 6 year old thread. don't worry, it happens a lot.