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3.0 Spark Plug Gap


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Hello, I’m back again with things that shouldn’t need answering. I thought it was high time to replace my spark plugs and wires on the ranger but unfortunately I have a feeling I’m in another f*ck autozone situation. I ordered pre gapped Bosch iridium spark plugs and was already bugged on the website because it had no indication of how much of a pre-gap just that they were just that. Trusted autozone since it was parts specific to the vehicle and what do you know, they’re the wrong parts. They’re gapped at .052” and the 3.0 needs .042 - .047 if I’m not mistaken. As far as I know these are for a 4.0 so should I just buy a 4.0? Jk
Lol anyways could I just adjust these a certain way back down to the 3.0’s gap range or would it be a really bad idea to put them in regardless.
 


ericbphoto

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I just went to the Bosch website and looked for iridium spark plugs for 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0l v6.

Here is what their website showed me. I recommend regular old Motorcraft spark plugs.

Screenshot_20200113-135406_Chrome.jpg
 

cbxer55

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I put some of those fancy iridium plugs in my Ranger some years ago, Bosch. Ate the center electrodes out of them in 5000 miles. Also tried some of those E3 plugs, gone in 5000 miles. Good old Motorcraft double platinum plugs in it now since January 2017. Since the ignition on these fires two plugs, with the spark backwards on them, it's best to stick with double platinums. On one side, the spark goes from the outer electrode to the center. On the other, it goes from the center to the outer. So it wears on the electrodes differently on both sides.

Lots of different wires here. I have the blue JBA in my Ranger and the red JBA in my 4.0 Mustang. Full metal spiral wound wires. The best. Lengths all correct.
These are all 3.0 wire kits. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-performance-plug-wires/?filter=1&sub-model[Liter][]=3.0L

For better or worse, I buy my plugs at my local FORD dealer. I like rolling in there in my Lightning. Attracts a crowd every time. And them salesman coming out wondering what I am trading it in for. LMAO!!
 
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I just went to the Bosch website and looked for iridium spark plugs for 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0l v6.

Here is what their website showed me. I recommend regular old Motorcraft spark plugs.

View attachment 35646
I’ll disagree on that search, though they got me pre gapped at .052 which is not standard for the 3.0
 

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RonD

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You can run them as is
When driving under load at higher RPMs see if you feel any misfires, if not all is well

Spark plug gap is drivers choice, within limits, lol
The smaller the gap the weaker the spark so can cause slower cold starts, but the better the recovery time for the coil, i.e. racing engines use smaller gaps for better high RPM performance, they don't care about cold starts, lol

The wider the gap the better for cold starts and low RPM pulling power, stronger spark, but less recovery time for coil, so you can get misfires at high rpms, 5,000+ rpms

+/- 0.01 is about the limit for general driving requirements

So 0.046 spec, could be tested at 0.036 to 0.056 for best DRIVER'S preference

Its like tire pressure, driver decides the best pressure to run, within limits
 

cbxer55

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Yeah, like us Lightning guys reduce the gap when we up boost beyond stock. I run NGK TR-6 gapped at .032 in mine. IIRC, stock gap is up around .060. But more boost can "blow out" the spark if the gap is too wide.
 
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You can run them as is
When driving under load at higher RPMs see if you feel any misfires, if not all is well

Spark plug gap is drivers choice, within limits, lol
The smaller the gap the weaker the spark so can cause slower cold starts, but the better the recovery time for the coil, i.e. racing engines use smaller gaps for better high RPM performance, they don't care about cold starts, lol

The wider the gap the better for cold starts and low RPM pulling power, stronger spark, but less recovery time for coil, so you can get misfires at high rpms

+/- 0.01 is about the limit

So 0.046 spec, could be tested at 0.036 to 0.056 for best DRIVER'S preference

Its like tire pressure, driver decides the best pressure to run, within limits
I guess the question is then, should I get different plugs at this point? The truck is literally my way of getting out of thick wet clay when it rains out where I live so I’m really running the crap out of her. Sometimes we go into town with the truck but Im mainly driving my E36 bmw as a daily. So the truck is what’s getting beat. It sounds like I shouldn’t put the spark plugs in with the way I drive it
 
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Keeping in mind the truck is 2wd and it’s 1st gear, petal on the floor with the tires spinning at 40mph to move in this mud. So I’m really looking for the best way to run this truck
 

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I recently put one of these on my 4.0 Mustang, and am intending the same for my 3.0 soon. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-ignition-systems/accel-super-edis-ignition-block-904806230.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

And this is as close as you can get to the one I have. Mine is a MAC, not available any longer. This one if K & N. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-air-intakes/kn-air-intakes-57-series-377170362.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

I need to take another picture, this one is really old. LOL!!
 

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8thTon

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Iridium is great and works very well, but for a wasted spark system both the ground AND the center electrode must be iridium or it will do no good. The wasted spark system is going to try to burn off 3 of the center electrodes, which is why most fine wire plugs will be shot after a couple thousand miles.
 

cbxer55

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Iridium is great and works very well, but for a wasted spark system both the ground AND the center electrode must be iridium or it will do no good. The wasted spark system is going to try to burn off 3 of the center electrodes, which is why most fine wire plugs will be shot after a couple thousand miles.
Which is exactly what happened when I tried them. Gone in 5000 miles or less. Still ran though. I took them out just to see what they looked like, and found iirc the three on the passenger side had no center electrodes at all.
 

8thTon

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I recently put one of these on my 4.0 Mustang, and am intending the same for my 3.0 soon. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-ignition-systems/accel-super-edis-ignition-block-904806230.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

And this is as close as you can get to the one I have. Mine is a MAC, not available any longer. This one if K & N. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-air-intakes/kn-air-intakes-57-series-377170362.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

I need to take another picture, this one is really old. LOL!!
Why would he need a new coil and a hot air intake?
 

8thTon

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Which is exactly what happened when I tried them. Gone in 5000 miles or less. Still ran though. I took them out just to see what they looked like, and found iirc the three on the passenger side had no center electrodes at all.
The Autolite XP has an Iridium-enhanced center electrode, and a platinum ground electrode. Since the ground electrode lasts longer anyway these work quite well.
 
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I recently put one of these on my 4.0 Mustang, and am intending the same for my 3.0 soon. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-ignition-systems/accel-super-edis-ignition-block-904806230.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

And this is as close as you can get to the one I have. Mine is a MAC, not available any longer. This one if K & N. https://www.carid.com/1998-ford-ranger-air-intakes/kn-air-intakes-57-series-377170362.html?parentsubmodel[]=ENGINE|3.0L

I need to take another picture, this one is really old. LOL!!
To be honest I’ve looked a K&N intake and a crank pulley from jet performance for a little more performance. But I think I’ll go get some platinums gapped with its range. To many ifs and worries with these. And I’m not sure I could carefully bend 6 of them down anyways lol
 
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Tire Size
Stock 225/70R15
Suggestions on stores that might have some of these spark plugs on the shelf? Autozone never has motorcraft, just am ordering option in store.
 

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