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3.0 plus turbo- Info Wanted

Wireman20

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I am a new member here and have read a lot of great posts here.
I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 with the 3.0. I am going to turbo this engine lightly, 5-7 lbs. I have seen some unbelievably cheep turbos out there and am asking what brands are trustworthy and what to stay away from.
Also if you guys have a particular model turbo or size turbo that would work well and be a good value, that would be great know.
Thanks in advance
 


RonD

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Also look at Supercharging the 3.0l vulcan

Main benefit of turbos is they can generate more boost than a supercharger can, but if you are running under 15psi then thats not an issue

Plus side of supercharger is NO turbo lag, power is instant and consistent with RPM, and no waste gate
And no adding an Oil Feed to cool the turbo

You can get used superchargers fairly cheap, the expensive part is the intake manifold that matches the supercharger, which you can buy or have made.

Car makers use turbos because they are cheaper to add when designing the vehicle, the plumbing you need to add them after the fact can be, well, involved, lol
 

Wireman20

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OK. thanks for all the posts around this neighborhood on Forced Induction. I have decided the 3.0 is logistically (The turbo ends up under the truck, and a blower is a plumbing headache) a bad candidate to practically do this and have pretty much decided I bought the wrong truck. I need a 4.0. So I am going to go that direction.
 

RonD

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Good change of plan in my opinion

The 2001 to 2011 Rangers used the 4.0l SOHC engines, 207HP so close to 5.0l V8 power, 215HP

But the 2001 to 2003/4 4.0l SOHC engines did have timing chain issues, they could be repaired but engine needs to be pulled out to do it
If you find a 2001-2004 Ranger with 4.0l then ask if this has been done.
But in any case the 2001 to 2011 4.0l SOHC should have the 2 long chain tensioner replaced every 70-80k miles, IMO
They are not hard to change, can be a bit pricey, $100-$150 for the set Motorcraft brand, I wouldn't use 3rd party for this
Same engine was used from 1997 to 2011 in other Ford vehicles
The 1997 to 2003/4 had the older design parts
 

Wireman20

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Thanks for the info!
 

D.j.bluedream

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How is it a nightmare to turbo or supercharge a 3.0 versus any other vehicle out there? There's plenty of guys I've seen on YouTube running a bedmounted setup. If running the pipe for a turbo in the bay is a difficult endeavor (which I can't see why it would be. Plenty of space on the passenger side imo) a supercharger should be as easy as spreading butter on a wax sheet.
 
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bobbywalter

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My credo
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If you need to turbo a 3.0

Not sure a 4.0 is enough either.
 

Ranger850

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Wireman20

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I kept trying to justify the 3.0 turbo idea and in the end just lived with it as is.
Then last summer along came a very nice '03 FX4/Level II. It had no Cam Chain noise and is a very nice Black Truck, Auto tranny and 154K.
The '99/ 3.0 is gone. To make the switch cost a difference of $3500. I would do that every day.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
So your satisfied the power?


In stock trim, especially with a manual trans I really like the 4.0 ranger..

Ohv or cammer. Great truck unless your in the rust belt.
 

Wireman20

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I am Satisfied with the power, I was mostly after the torque. I have a spare 4.0 OHC in the the engine stand with only 15K on it. I am going to wrap it in plastic and store it away This one runs perfect..
I am an Older Guy, and I do like the flexibility of Manual hubs. I have all the parts on the shelf to install them on this truck. It is like the last truck that you can do this to without changing out the front axle.
 

RonD

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2001 and up have "live axles", you need to change the axles and hubs to do manual

But I think full time lock is better in that the axles and differential, even drive shaft are always turning.
When was the last time you had to replace rear differential that's turning all the time, basically they last a long long time because they stay lubed, they are used often

Sitting for 6 to 8 months a year or even for a month or 2, means oil/lube settles to low points, so CV joints, u-joints, bearings and differential DRY START each time they are used

Locked front hubs does effect MPG but it was tested at 0.2-0.3MPG, not 0 but not too much either
 

Wireman20

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15"X 31"
I kind of hate to go down this road again, but here goes,
Why were Manual Locking Hubs ever put on a Vehicle? Why are they still installed on the real work trucks like F-350's and up?
And the third Question: Why were they removed from the option list?
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
Tire Size
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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I kind of hate to go down this road again, but here goes,
Why were Manual Locking Hubs ever put on a Vehicle? Why are they still installed on the real work trucks like F-350's and up?
And the third Question: Why were they removed from the option list?

Because large shaft with u joints wear out and vibrate like a moth fockles with the various thrust angles and oscillations and have a significantly higher cost in nvh and fuel economy. Solid axles need a much more costlier bearing and shaft equalization split for torque equalization.

CV shafts are expensive. But nice.

I have worn out several rear ends. Right to the races turning.

Front ends in ttb as well. When used under load they eat parts. If you thrash on a sla ranger, they eat axle shafts ... Especially locked.

The new bronco and ranger will destroy steering regularly until upgraded.... By those that push the limits.
 

RonD

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The first 4x4 was made in the late 1800's, full time axle locks
And manual hubs came in the 1950s to SOME consumer 4WD vehicles, my 1954 Willys had them
It was mostly just marketing and made sense to consumers for the "less drag" theory on vehicles that would see very little off-road use
(similar to 180deg thermostats vs 195deg thermostats, are better because engine runs cooler, its not, lol)

For actual longevity locked front axles with transfer case have less issues and if you leave the manual hubs locked most of the year, which I did with my past 4x4s, there are less issues

As for manual or Auto hubs in general, I have had 2 break when off-roading, different vehicles, one Ford and one GMC, thru no fault of my own(well maybe a little fault, lol, darn rocks and stumps)
And you are then stuck with 2WD to try and get home, thank goodness for winches

Give me an axle bolted to front hub any day over a manual or auto hub for reliability and longevity

Just my opinion
 

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