3.0 L timing chain replacement

[Lakewind]

Does anyone have any experience replacing the timing chain and sprockets on this engine? I've replaced the water pump on this engine in the past and I know it's a job getting to the timing chain but, my first concern is the harmonic balancer bolt on the end of the crank shaft. I've read Ford used Loctite red thread locker on the bolt holding the balancer on the end of the crankshaft. From what I know about red thread locker is you need heat to break the bolt loose. That would be tough if not impossible. Any input would be greatly appreciated. There are some good videos you tube of this procedure but they don't show the mechanic breaking that bolt loose.

 

[Uncle Gump]

 

[Lakewind]

And that alone will get it? No heat, chemicals?

 

[pjtoledo]

1/2 drive 18" breaker bar is what I used on a few.
a high quality 6 point socket works best.
some swearing yes, heat no.

a couple of the timing cover bolts like to corrode and break off.

 

[Lakewind]

Thank you pj. Timing cover bolts like to corrode and break off? Oh man. Did you have to drill them out?

 

[901wd#2]

I have a new timing set for sale if you have yet to get one.

 

[pentode]

And that alone will get it? No heat, chemicals?

I used a 1/2" impact on the crank bolt and it came out easy. Used a loaner harmonic balancer puller/installer and no problems there either. Hand tools on the rest. Few of the bolts were fairly corroded but nothing broke in my case.

 

[pjtoledo]

Thank you pj. Timing cover bolts like to corrode and break off? Oh man. Did you have to drill them out?

I'm in the rust belt, broken bolts are an accepted way of life here. a couple did need drilling for removal.
I usually try to rig up a guide plate to keep the drill bit straight. start with small drills so you can correct "the wandering" of the bits.

 

[Lakewind]

I'm in the rust belt, broken bolts are an accepted way of life here. a couple did need drilling for removal.
I usually try to rig up a guide plate to keep the drill bit straight. start with small drills so you can correct "the wandering" of the bits.

Thanks for the advice. My Ranger being a South Carolina car that only seen an inch of snow in its entire life might not have that problem then.

 

[Lakewind]

I used a 1/2" impact on the crank bolt and it came out easy. Used a loaner harmonic balancer puller/installer and no problems there either. Hand tools on the rest. Few of the bolts were fairly corroded but nothing broke in my case.

Thanks Pentode. I feel better about the job. With this being a southern car all its life maybe no corroded bolts.

 

[Lakewind]

I have a new timing set for sale if you have yet to get one.

I'll let you know. Motorcraft parts? or aftermarket?

 

[901wd#2]

I'll let you know. Motorcraft parts? or aftermarket?

Cloyes,

 

[pjtoledo]

Cloyes are the go-to for timing parts. always had good luck with them.

 

[pentode]

Thanks Pentode. I feel better about the job. With this being a southern car all its life maybe no corroded bolts.

I doubt you'll have any trouble. In fact the real problem bolts are the ones that go through the pump into the water jacket IIRC. I think they suffer from the coolant turning acidic, then they tend to both rust into the block and react with the aluminum timing cover... Double whammy.
However, it's been a while since I did mine but if memory serves, you would have needed to remove those 2 worst bolts to do the water pump so it'll be smooth sailing.

Edit: unsolicited advice/info, assuming you're not dropping the pan, use caution/common sense do not drop any junk into the pan, creative use of rags or shop towels, do an oil change after you're done just to make sure (you will get coolant in the oil barring a miracle), don't forget a dab of silicone/gasket maker in the corners where the timing cover meets the pan, and also on the Woodruff key for the harmonic balancer

In the thread where I did mine, I mentioned the issues I had. https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/things-i-learned-doing-the-3-0-timing-cover-leak-fix.208599

 

[Lakewind]

I doubt you'll have any trouble. In fact the real problem bolts are the ones that go through the pump into the water jacket IIRC. I think they suffer from the coolant turning acidic, then they tend to both rust into the block and react with the aluminum timing cover... Double whammy.
However, it's been a while since I did mine but if memory serves, you would have needed to remove those 2 worst bolts to do the water pump so it'll be smooth sailing.

Edit: unsolicited advice/info, assuming you're not dropping the pan, use caution/common sense do not drop any junk into the pan, creative use of rags or shop towels, do an oil change after you're done just to make sure (you will get coolant in the oil barring a miracle), don't forget a dab of silicone/gasket maker in the corners where the timing cover meets the pan, and also on the Woodruff key for the harmonic balancer

In the thread where I did mine, I mentioned the issues I had. https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/things-i-learned-doing-the-3-0-timing-cover-leak-fix.208599

Yes, I had the water pump bolts out 2 years ago when I changed the pump so there shouldn't be corrosion. In fact, that's where the timing cover is slowly dripping coolant. Right behind the bolt that goes through the pump and timing cover, so I wonder if I weakened the seal on the timing cover when I changed the pump. What strikes me as a little odd is my torque specs on the water pump bolts is 84 in/lb (7 ft/lb) on all of them including the ones holding the timing cover. That seems a bit light.