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2nd Fuel Tank

planeflyer21

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Howdy everyone. Not sure where to post this. Mods, please move it if there's a better spot.

I'm considering putting a 2nd fuel tank on my 1999 Ranger supercab. Somehow I got it in my head that a '85+ Bronco II fuel tank will fit between the frame, where the factory spare tire carrier used to be. (read that somewhere it will work, can't find it here or other places)

Does anybody have any information on this? If possible, I'd like to plumb the 2 tanks as one, if that makes sense. Have the Bronco II tank feed into the OEM tank, rather than have a switch on the dash that determines which tank is feeding.

Thanks!

Jon
 


RonD

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If you have emissions testing in your area then it gets very hard pass with 2nd gas tanks, which is why they were dropped by car makers
EVAP system issues

Yes, you can fit the B2 gas tanks in place of the spare tire but it will sit LOW if off-roading at regular height
Doing a body lift(bed lift) helps

Thread here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/behind-axle-tank-the-way-ford-shouldve-done-it.178281/

Rear frame dimensions were the same, pretty much, on all Rangers, 1983 to 2011
 

sgtsandman

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Whatever you do is going to be a custom job. There were so few dual tank Rangers that replacement parts are all but nonexistent. Even the fuel door and filler neck is going to be custom. At least they left the hump in the bed to take advantage of...
 

planeflyer21

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If you have emissions testing in your area then it gets very hard pass with 2nd gas tanks, which is why they were dropped by car makers
EVAP system issues

Yes, you can fit the B2 gas tanks in place of the spare tire but it will sit LOW if off-roading at regular height
Doing a body lift(bed lift) helps

Thread here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/behind-axle-tank-the-way-ford-shouldve-done-it.178281/

Rear frame dimensions were the same, pretty much, on all Rangers, 1983 to 2011
Thanks, Ron. That's a big help.

Should be relocating soon to out of an emissions straddled county.

Working on the Superlift install now, with the materials set aside for a custom flatbed.

Sgt, already counting on the custom part.

Thanks again, guys!
 

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Looking at something similar, but putting a short bed on a long bed standard cab frame and a new custom tank between them. Get a long bed topper to cover the top and some side trim and I figure I can have one hell of a second tank. ( Looking at a fair number of cross country runs in the future and I hate to stop if I don't have to. ) She tells me the next thing will be a transmission funnel down through the floor so I don't have to stop to take a leak. Might be an idea if smokey is behind me :icon_rofl:
 

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Fullsizes were much more likely to have dual tanks, probably easier to find the valving and lines from one of those.
 

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I kind of like the idea of a tank between the bed and the cab. The loss of in cab storage would stink but about 12” of gap would allow for a pretty big tank!
 

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I'm planning on some long drawers on one side in the bed for storage, it's going to be a road trip vehicle more than a 'work' vehicle. Adding a boot between the cab and topper and insulating the topper gives me a sleeper. Many of the trips will be LONG distance, like St. Louis to Dallas kind of runs.
 

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I'm planning on some long drawers on one side in the bed for storage, it's going to be a road trip vehicle more than a 'work' vehicle. Adding a boot between the cab and topper and insulating the topper gives me a sleeper. Many of the trips will be LONG distance, like St. Louis to Dallas kind of runs.
I’ve thinking of some of those fiberglass drop ceil tiles as a long term project for that. Thin, flexible, and shouldn’t intrude into the cap much but still add quite a bit of insulation value.

I still haven’t thought much about the bed itself and how to insulate it. I would imagine there would be quite a bit of heat loss through the sheet metal. Maybe some of that insulative dynomat stuff for the side walls since the floor is covered with a wood platform.
 

vigness

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My plan is ti cut strips to fill the bed grooves, then at least a 1/2" or 3/4" of foam sheet on top of that, topped by some 3/4" plywood. Probably laid sideways and toung and grove for a tight fit. The 3/4" will spread the pressure points out on the foam base. Saw some really nice diesel heater on a You Tube video. External draw and exhaust for combustion, totally separate from the heated air. The gut, in a tent in teh winter in Colorado, used less than a gallon of diesel and almost roasted himself out of an un-insulated tent. Definitely going to upgrade to the thermostatically controlled unit.
 

planeflyer21

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Fullsizes were much more likely to have dual tanks, probably easier to find the valving and lines from one of those.
I've noticed that. I would think it shouldn't be too hard to adapt a selector valve and switch.
 

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Full size trucks needed dual tanks with 8 to 10 MPG, lol
 

planeflyer21

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Full size trucks needed dual tanks with 8 to 10 MPG, lol
Tell me about it!

My pre-Ranger truck was a 1976 K10. 10mpg everywhere. Then $4/gallon gas hit AZ. Got my Ranger and it paid for itself in gas savings in like 4 months.
 

vigness

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I have a pair of 98's that i can rob from. May have to get the internals to the tank to get the right fittings, then keep an eye out at the junk yard for a dual tank set up... or break down and buy one on RockAuto.

Have to do a bit of hinting, bit I seem to remember a friends F-25 with dual tanks, so that's a start.
 

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Full size trucks needed dual tanks with 8 to 10 MPG, lol
our farm truck was a 77 F250 with full-time 4wd, 400 V8, C6 & 4.10’s- got 9 at best but what a workhorse! previous truck of dads was identical in color (two-tone green) 74 F250 2wd with the 300-6, creeper 1st 4 speed & 3.73’s & it only did about 15 at best but was very good despite being a 2wd, trucks had some weight back then!
 

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