2021 Ford Ranger FX4 TRS-3 Project Build

[85_Ranger4x4]

I called the alignment shop this morning and have an appointment for them to re-check the alignment on the 20th.

 

[SenorNoob]

Probably about what you get when you take a TTB truck in...

 

[Curious Hound]

I got a new tape measure. I'll line it up for you.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Removing The 2019-2023 Ford Ranger Grill:

Before I could replace the bumper cover, I had to remove the grill.

Begin by removing the radiator support access cover (the plastic cover between the grill and the radiator). The cover is held in place by (5) plastic push pin clips and (2) T30 Torx screws that hold the air intake in place.

Use a flathead screwdriver to lift the push pin in the center of the clip and then remove the clip from the mounting hole. Sometimes it’s easier to remove the clip from the hole after the center pin is completely removed.

Remove the (2) T30 Torx bolts that hold the intake in place.

Now you can remove the radiator support access cover.

Remove the plastic hood latch cover from around the hood latch. The cover is held in place with a plastic mounting clip and an 8mm bolt.

With that cover removed, you’ll have to remove the plastic air deflector that’s below it.

The air deflector is held in place by (4) 7mm bolts. (2) on the left and (2) on the right.

With those (4) 7mm bolts removed, you should be able to slide the air deflector forward (towards the grill) and then slide it down towards the bumper to get it free and then lift it out.

Next, remove the 10mm bolt at the left and right side of the grill. There’s a plastic tab that holds the grill in place as well. You’ll have to lift the grill up and over it.

When you look down behind the grill, you’ll find (5) black plastic tabs sticking through the back of the bumper cover.

DO NOT GRAB THE GRILL AND TRY TO PULL IT LOOSE WITHOUT RELEASING THOSE TABS!

I’ve seen videos of people grabbing the grill and yanking it off. You could very easily break the plastic tabs that holds the grill in place.

Below is a look through the slot in the bumper cover where the grill tabs mount. You can see that there is a tab in the top of that slot. When you slide the grill in place, that tab locks into the TOP of that black plastic mounting tab. So, to remove the grill, you have to push the black grill tab down to release it. Actually, you have to slide something between the top of the black plastic tab and the bumper cover to get it to unlock.

To remove my grill, I used a screwdriver to create a gap between the top of the black plastic grill tab and the bumper cover, and then slid a toothpick in the gap to keep the tab from locking back in place. You can see the toothpicks in the photo below.

There’s also (1) mounting tab on each side of the grill.

I used a small flathead screwdriver to release the locking tab on the right (drivers’ side) of the grill, and then started working it loose from the right to the left by pulling on the bottom of the grill. As I worked from the right to the left, I released the locking tab on the left side (passenger) of the grill and then completely removed the grill.

The yellow arrows in the photo below are meant to show you the locations where the grill clips to the truck.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Removing The 2019-2023 Ford Ranger Bumper Cover:

First you have to remove these side marker lights in the front fender flare.

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Pull back the fender liner, squeeze the clip on the back of the light (near the front), and push the light out.

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Removing the light will reveal a Torx bolt. Remove the Torx bolt.

Now you can pull the fender flare back far enough to access the 10mm bolt behind it. Remove that bolt.

The bumper cover and front fender basically snap together.

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Now repeat this on the other fender.

Looking on the back of the bumper cover in the area where the radiator was your see where the bumper is secured by black plastic tabs. Push those down with a small screwdriver

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Work all of these locking tabs loose and slide the bumper cover forward as you go.

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Time to replace the old cover with the new one.

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Here's the bumper cover resting on the bumper ready to be snapped in place.

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Line up the tabs on the bumper cover with the slots they clip into.

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With everything snapped in place, you can re-install the bolt behind the fender flare, then the Torx screw in the opening where the marker light will go, and then snap the light back in place.

With the bumper cover installed, reinstall the grill:

2019-2023 Ford Ranger Grill Removal - The Ranger Station

I'm glad to not have to look at that damaged bumper cover anymore.

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Next up, installing the ARB Snorkel.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Installing The ARB Snorkel

I bought an ARB snorkel from Ford Accessories. Ford has them listed for $250.

This was NOT a one-day job. It pretty much took two days for me to install this.

Remove and discard the air intake duct.

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Reinstall the Torx bolts.

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Remove the air cleaner assembly.

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Cover the intake hose with a plastic bag to prevent anything from falling into the intake.

Cover the fender with masking tape

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And then use the fender template to mark the mounting holes and cutout.

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Drilll out the mounting holes.

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And then increase the hole sizes to 16mm (5/8").

Drill holes inside the circle so you have a place to start the saw blade.

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Now cut a hole in your $40K Ford Ranger.

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My only saw choices were a Sawzall or a jigsaw. I used the jigsaw.

The saw started to tear the tape, so I covered it in Gorilla tape.

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I had to remove the plastic clips that hold the fender liner in place.

I hate whoever the person is that invented these plastic clips with the stupid plastic Philips screw in the middle of them. The plastic screw in the middle almost never comes out and I end up having to remove them with a trim removal tool.

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Anyway, you have to remove the marker light in the fender flare by squeezing the clip on the back of it and pushing it out, and then removing the bolt behind the light.

The remove the bolt at the bottom of fender flare at the rear of the fender opening.

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Once all of the clips are out you can drop the fender liner down, so you have access to the area behind the fender.

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Apply Loctite 243 to each of the stainless-steel mounting studs and install them in the snorkel finger tight.

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And install the upper mounting bracket.

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Cover the A-pillar with masking tape.

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Carefully install the snorkel body onto the fender and then mark the outline of the upper mounting bracket on the masking tape.

With the snorkel body positioned, open the door to make sure it clears.

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Then remove the snorkel, remove the upper mounting bracket, and use it as a template to mark the mounting holes.

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Now drill out the mounting holes with a 5mm (3/16") drill and install it with the supplied pop rivets.

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In the inside of the engine bay, you need to unclip this wire loom.

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Position the inner support plate to the inner fender using the 6mm hole that's already there (above my thumb) and trace the opening with a marker.

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Now the fun is cutting the hole out. I tried cutting it with the jigsaw, and it was a pain. I found that if I drilled larger holes close together there was less metal to cut.

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I cleaned the opening with a grinder.

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And then installed the support plate again with that 6mm hole so I could mark and drill the remaining mounting holes.

Sorry that the next pic is upside down.

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You need a 90-degree drill to drill out the (10) 5.5mm (3/16") mounting holes. I didn't have a 90-degree drill, so I picked up a
Milescraft Drill90Plus Right Angle Drill attachment for about $20. Works great.

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I had to apply Sikaflex 227 adhesive to the back of the inner fender support before bolting it on. This is basically a seam sealer.

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I really don't understand why ARB calls for Sikaflex to be applied to this support plate. It doesn't seal anything. It doesn't seal the snorkel.

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I broke the plastic retaining clip that held the harness where the support plate mounted. I had some plastic retaining clips and took (2) zip ties and made my own clip to hold the harness.

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[Robertmangrum.rm]

Wished I was better about documenting and taking pictures on my projects. I get caught up in it and forget about recording the progress.

 

[Blmpkn]

Good lord.. you apply as much threadlocker as I do lol. One day I'll learn my lesson.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Good lord.. you apply as much threadlocker as I do lol. One day I'll learn my lesson.

Yeah I used some red thread locker. Hope I never have to take it off haha

 

[Blmpkn]

Yeah I used some red thread locker. Hope I never have to take it off haha

Ohhh you really did it now haha.

Isn't there another step above red as well? Purple or green or something?

 

[Curious Hound]

Ohhh you really did it now haha.

Isn't there another step above red as well? Purple or green or something?

There is. Green is for tight fitting cylindrical parts. Don't use green! It is a bear to get loose. Green is not intended for threaded fasteners. Blue should be fine for 90% of what you do. Red should be considered almost permanent and often requires heat to soften and remove.

I actually had a seminar once, led by a rep from Loctite company. He told us a tiny drop is all you need. That's a company rep, interested in selling the product telling us we use too much. It was an interesting seminar covering their products. The stuff works in the absence of air. It is an anaerobic solution. So, cleanliness and close tolerances make it work better. That one picture above shows at least 5 times more loctite than needed.

 

[SenorNoob]

There are a dozen or so different formulas. Like 242 vs 243. 243 doesn't require a "clean" (alcohol bathed? IDK) thread. Supposedly it works even on oily bolts.

There is another grade of red too. I don't think it was a Loctite brand. I have a bottle here somewhere. It's for super high temperatures. Guaranteed up to like 2000F. I ordered it for the spark plug insert on my motorcycle. I figured at that point the insert had melted out of the threadlocker.

 

[Curious Hound]

There are a dozen or so different formulas. Like 242 vs 243. 243 doesn't require a "clean" (alcohol bathed? IDK) thread. Supposedly it works even on oily bolts.

There is another grade of red too. I don't think it was a Loctite brand. I have a bottle here somewhere. It's for super high temperatures. Guaranteed up to like 2000F. I ordered it for the spark plug insert on my motorcycle. I figured at that point the insert had melted out of the threadlocker.

I should mention that seminar was back in the late 80's. Their product line has most certainly expanded since then. But the principles are the same.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

There is. Green is for tight fitting cylindrical parts. Don't use green! It is a bear to get loose. Green is not intended for threaded fasteners.

Green threadlocker is medium strength and it wicks so it spreads out more. Kind of weird, probably not at your local parts store.

LOCTITE, 290, Green, Wicking Medium-Strength Threadlocker - 5E216|233731 - Grainger

The nasty green is sleeve retainer which is probably on the same shelf as the traditional blue/red but isn't thread locker.

LOCTITE, 620, 0.3 fl oz, Retaining Compound - 4KM32|234772 - Grainger

 

[Curious Hound]

Green threadlocker is medium strength and it wicks so it spreads out more. Kind of weird, probably not at your local parts store.

LOCTITE, 290, Green, Wicking Medium-Strength Threadlocker - 5E216|233731 - Grainger

The nasty green is sleeve retainer which is probably on the same shelf as the traditional blue/red but isn't thread locker.

LOCTITE, 620, 0.3 fl oz, Retaining Compound - 4KM32|234772 - Grainger

The sleeve retainer is the green I was talking about.