2019 Ranger Ecoboost Oil Change Interval

[Dirtman]

Again, what makes it different than any other direct injection engine?

 

[acsnowrider]

I think, short of installing a catch can, oil changes on my truck are going to be done a 3k intervals. The kit for the catch can looks pretty straight forward, and it makes sense that it would be a effective "separator" for the contamination present in the vacuum stream. It's a shame, that probably, most dealerships would complaint/threaten your warranty, if found on a vehicle brought in for warranty work. This "mentality" is present in almost every industry--I purchased a 2002 1000cc 154" Mountaincat from a Anchorage A/C dealer, who when prepping the unit, installed my MBRP exhaust can to the expansion chambers-(mostly just to make it LOUD) -- 36 miles into the first ride, the engine seized, at an idle, when I stepped off the machine to talk to my buddy-we towed it out of the backcountry, and when I called the dealership, they told me I had to install the stock muffler back on the machine, before bringing it in, so there would be "no warranty questions"!! everything is expensive, so I just did it.

 

[19Walt93]

When I was a dealer service manager I never denied warranty coverage, I would open a case in FMC360 and get the field service engineer involved so he could deny or approve coverage if there was a question. Ford can review a claim for up to a year after it is paid and charge it back to the dealer so care has to be taken to dot the "i's" to make sure the claim stays paid. Denying coverage at the dealer level is also a good way to get sued. Very little will void a warranty - flood cars for example- the message "all warranty cancelled except emissions" pops up often on rebuilt wrecks. Reinstalling OEM parts like exhaust might help but an FSE can tell when parts have been recently replaced. Removing tuners doesn't work, the PCM has a memory of the last time memory was erased- if it says 11 miles ago, the vehicle hasn't been to a dealer in a long time, and there's a major failure, the FSE will connect the dots. Dealers don't want to deny coverage and lose customers but they don't want to eat the cost of a major repair that gets charged back, either. The Warranty covers parts Ford built that were operated as designed, the best way to assure coverage is to not modify it during the warranty. I've seen diesel engines destroyed by K&N filters that were not kept clean and oiled and aftermarket air filters that didn't seal properly, the bills were five figures.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

When I was a dealer service manager I never denied warranty coverage, I would open a case in FMC360 and get the field service engineer involved so he could deny or approve coverage if there was a question. Ford can review a claim for up to a year after it is paid and charge it back to the dealer so care has to be taken to dot the "i's" to make sure the claim stays paid. Denying coverage at the dealer level is also a good way to get sued. Very little will void a warranty - flood cars for example- the message "all warranty cancelled except emissions" pops up often on rebuilt wrecks. Reinstalling OEM parts like exhaust might help but an FSE can tell when parts have been recently replaced. Removing tuners doesn't work, the PCM has a memory of the last time memory was erased- if it says 11 miles ago, the vehicle hasn't been to a dealer in a long time, and there's a major failure, the FSE will connect the dots. Dealers don't want to deny coverage and lose customers but they don't want to eat the cost of a major repair that gets charged back, either. The Warranty covers parts Ford built that were operated as designed, the best way to assure coverage is to not modify it during the warranty. I've seen diesel engines destroyed by K&N filters that were not kept clean and oiled and aftermarket air filters that didn't seal properly, the bills were five figures.

It seems usually when a FSE gets involved with the dealer my brother works at and there is aftermarket stuff... denied. Same thing with diesels and aftermarket air filters BTW, they don't seem to mix well out of the mall parking lot.

It seems the newer (cutting edge) something is the more Ford will want to have a look at it to see if it is a potential running problem.

If I got a truck with a warranty I would do my best to keep it squeaky clean/stock until the warranty was out.

 

[r1ch999999]

I may have already said this, but I had a dealer tell me my CAI voided my warranty when my rear brakes seized. I told him I was happy to take that answer as long as he was willing to take that claim to court. I suspect he was just fishing for a way out of the repair because they changed their mind immediately.

 

[sgtsandman]

Here is a link to the system I was talking about that includes an installation video. Other than mounting the can, there is no modification to the truck.

Disconnect the OEM hose from the quick disconnects. Connect the hoses and route them up to the front of the truck, take off the vanity cover to mount the can bracket and mount the can, reinstall cover, and hook up and secure hoses. It wouldn’t take much to restore the system back to OEM and pull the can if needed.

It was more than I remember it being.

Again, it’s up to the individual owner if they want to instal this or not. Even though I have a very good relationship with my local dealer, I still wouldn’t leave the can in there if there is warranty work to be done because of the mentioned outside entity making the call on warranty claims.

 

[19Walt93]

Why not show it to someone at the dealer and get their input?

 

[sgtsandman]

I might inquire about it when my center caps for the 2019's steel wheels finally come in. It's not like I'm planning to get the kit right away, if I even decide to do so. Partly out of being lazy and partly because I have to deal with more traffic than I want to to get to the dealership.

 

[acsnowrider]

So, as earlier stated, my oil changes are going to be done at tire rotation time, every 3000 miles. Today, my friend stopped over to perform the "paintless dent repair" on my left front door, correcting the dent that "suddenly" appeared, after the starter was changed at Ford. He was driving the same 94 Toyota Four Runner, that he's had all the years I've known him. He was telling me, he uses AMSOIL in it , and his oil change interval is either 24,000 miles, or one year. While inspecting the vehicle, I looked at the odometer, and saw 674000 miles on it--Yes, he verified it as accurate and true--proceeded to show me pics of when he replace the headgasket, (done twice now, over the many years-started leaking coolant into the cyl), including cyl pics, indicating almost no wear/taper at the tops of the cyl's. (22R engine, I think) Anyone else using this product??

 

[Dirtman]

Seems legit.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So, as earlier stated, my oil changes are going to be done at tire rotation time, every 3000 miles. Today, my friend stopped over to perform the "paintless dent repair" on my left front door, correcting the dent that "suddenly" appeared, after the starter was changed at Ford. He was driving the same 94 Toyota Four Runner, that he's had all the years I've known him. He was telling me, he uses AMSOIL in it , and his oil change interval is either 24,000 miles, or one year. While inspecting the vehicle, I looked at the odometer, and saw 674000 miles on it--Yes, he verified it as accurate and true--proceeded to show me pics of when he replace the headgasket, (done twice now, over the many years-started leaking coolant into the cyl), including cyl pics, indicating almost no wear/taper at the tops of the cyl's. (22R engine, I think) Anyone else using this product??

My brother had an amsoil dealer have their crap turn to sludge. Stuck the phasers on his 30k mile coyote. After several flushing changes with motorcraft they got it to come around and run decent without hammering.

The clown was appalled that they dissed his oil and couldnt get it home fast enough to get his “Superior” scamsoil back in it.

 

[sgtsandman]

So, as earlier stated, my oil changes are going to be done at tire rotation time, every 3000 miles. Today, my friend stopped over to perform the "paintless dent repair" on my left front door, correcting the dent that "suddenly" appeared, after the starter was changed at Ford. He was driving the same 94 Toyota Four Runner, that he's had all the years I've known him. He was telling me, he uses AMSOIL in it , and his oil change interval is either 24,000 miles, or one year. While inspecting the vehicle, I looked at the odometer, and saw 674000 miles on it--Yes, he verified it as accurate and true--proceeded to show me pics of when he replace the headgasket, (done twice now, over the many years-started leaking coolant into the cyl), including cyl pics, indicating almost no wear/taper at the tops of the cyl's. (22R engine, I think) Anyone else using this product??

I've used it in the past with good results in a previous vehicle. With that particular engine, the valve cover has to come off the change the timing belt and the inside of the engine was so clean, it looked like the engine was brand new. I never had a problem with it but even then, I wouldn't go that long before changing the oil because of the turbo.

Now, you may note that I said I have used and not that I use Amsoil. I have three vehicles I have to do oil changes to at about the same time twice a year. I can't afford what they charge with that many vehicles. I'm sure it's worth the money. I still use synthetic but it is usually what is on sale as a oil change package. Usually Valvoline but sometimes Mobil1 and sometimes Pennzoil.

If you choose to use Amsoil, you should be fine and more power to you. The "cheap" syntetic isn't as good nor keeps the engine as clean but with an engine designed and speced to use a lesser oil, even the cheaper stuff exceeds the OEM specification. Just make sure you don't go cheap on the oil filter.

 

[acsnowrider]

Ok, so my 2nd oil change was done at 6000 miles. (4k) Then, I read on other Ranger websites, of some owners dealing with a "increase", in oil level following their oil/filter change, possibly due to fuel getting into the crankcase. I wasn't careful when setting/adding the oil to my engine, just dumped in the 6 quarts, ran it checking for leakage, pulled the stick, verified in-between the marks, and motored on--since reading about this issue, (mileage now at 7000), I checked the level after sitting o/nite--level is 1/4" over full mark. Will continue to monitor, but I'm wondering if the "design" of the high pressure pump, allows a small amount of fuel, over time, to enter the engine/work past the pump interior, just as a characteristic?? My fuel mileage is great, and have no driveability issues, but this alone would be cause to change oil at 3k intervals. Anyone else watching this closely??

 

[sgtsandman]

The first I’ve heard of this. I did like you and just dumped 6 quarts in. Last time I checked the dipstick was on a road trip coming back from the Cleveland area. The range level looked normal then.

 

[acsnowrider]

Fuel in oil

I installed the UPR catch can about a week ago, and after about a 600 Mile road trip this last weekend I wanted to see what it had captured, and much to my surprise it contained a few ounces of gasoline (maybe a little water, but it has been warm here in Texas and the engine never cooled down...

www.ranger5g.com

As described on this site, these owners may have a issue. I was especially interested in the "oil evaluations/analysis" listed!