2019 Ranger Ecoboost Oil Change Interval


snoranger

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acsnowrider

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What oil did you put in your truck at 2,000 miles?
The first oil change, was done for free, at the selling dealership--Work order indicates 5W-30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend

Today, I used Valvoline 5W-30 Synthetic Blend, and a FL-910S Motorcraft filter
 

HenryMac

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The first oil change, was done for free, at the selling dealership--Work order indicates 5W-30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend

Today, I used Valvoline 5W-30 Synthetic Blend, and a FL-910S Motorcraft filter
It's a mystery to me why Ford specifies a synthetic blend? Everything I have read, and everybody I know that has a turbo charged direct injection vehicle says to use 100% synthetic.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the Mobil1 Annual Protection compares to the Factory Synthetic Blend using....
  • HenryMac's ultra-scientific oil dip stick test: look at it, smell it, rub it between your fingers. :haha:
 
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acsnowrider

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  • HenryMac's ultra-scientific oil dip stick test: look at it, smell it, rub it between your fingers. :haha:
I know well, that HenryMac test--The test even made it to Alaska!! Myself, I've been cautious of 100% synthetics--mostly just because of the early issues involving full synthetics--I'm sure you remember!--The guy who changed over to this on a engine fully broke in on "dinosaur" stuff--and suddenly, he had a major oil burner on his hands!--These issues probably don't happen anymore, but it's still hard to ignore "experience" over knowledge!
 

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I know well, that HenryMac test--The test even made it to Alaska!! Myself, I've been cautious of 100% synthetics--mostly just because of the early issues involving full synthetics--I'm sure you remember!--The guy who changed over to this on a engine fully broke in on "dinosaur" stuff--and suddenly, he had a major oil burner on his hands!--These issues probably don't happen anymore, but it's still hard to ignore "experience" over knowledge!
Yeah I remember that... wasn't that guy driving a Stanley Steamer :shok:.

My experience is that I've used Mobil 1 for over 20 years. The vehicles we've had are pretty diverse: '27 Ford Roadster Pick Up, '31 Model A Sedan, '65 C10, '69 Camaro, '72 Nova, '97 Tacoma, '01 CRV, '02 Tacoma, and '07 Wrangler. I've always done my own oil changes and have never had a problem.

On a side note: My (2) old Fords, they both have newer motors. The '31 has a '72 small block Chevy and the '27 has a '85 small block Ford. I initially used dinosaur oil to break in the motors, then switched to Mobil 1. The engine builder suggested that.

I did extensive research on what are the best motor oils for use in Direct Injection Turbocharged motors when we bought our Ranger.

What I learned is a "Synthetic Blend" is not the best oil to use in these motors. Sure, it's less expensive, but not the best choice. A low "volatility test (ASTM D5800) score is crucial to minimize valve deposits, and you want an oil that performs well at elevated temperatures. And, again, a blend is not the best choice.

I've always used Mobil 1's "Silver label" in the past and was surprised to learn it isn't the best choice either. Mobil 1 developed their "Annual Protection" line specifically for turbo charged motors like the 2019 / 2020 Rangers have.

Opinions may vary, but test results on the other hand clearly show that synthetic blends aren't the best choice.

Test Data.jpg

Mobil 1 Comparisons.jpg
 
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sgtsandman

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Mine have been getting synthetic since the first oil change. Why go half way when the cost difference isn’t all that much from blend to full synthetic?

Granted, I’m not getting top shelf but it’s gotta hold up better and keep the internals cleaner than a blend.
 

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The big thing for you DI guys is keeping the valves clean with cleaner EGR (and/or a catch can)

I have ran the blend in my 5.4 for 10+ years, when I replaced a valve cover gasket and intake gaskets a couple years ago the top end was spotless. But it is an entirely different animal than a DI engine.
 

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All this internet talk of catch cans. Would that impact the warranty at all? My gut says no but I’ve had a dealer try to tell me my aftermarket intake voided the warranty when my brake calipers failed at 15k.
I’m curious if I should get a catch can, especially if there is no harm in getting one. I commute in this rig in the winter and I only drive 2.5 miles each way. In the summer I hope to ride my bicycle.
 

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From what I have heard it is kind of a dealer by dealer thing but Ford frowns on them.
 

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Yeah, it’s going to be a dealer to dealer thing. There has also been mention that the pollution controls are being tampered with and could cause other liabilities. Looking at the kit that is pretty much plug and play by Stage 3 (I think) and it being only about $100, I’m seriously tempted to take my chances and install one. With it being plug and play with the OEM connectors, one could always pull it before any dealer work gets done.
 

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Yeah, it’s going to be a dealer to dealer thing. There has also been mention that the pollution controls are being tampered with and could cause other liabilities. Looking at the kit that is pretty much plug and play by Stage 3 (I think) and it being only about $100, I’m seriously tempted to take my chances and install one. With it being plug and play with the OEM connectors, one could always pull it before any dealer work gets done.
I would for sure remove it before dealer work gets done.

If something major happens with the engine and a suit comes down from Detroit sees it on there... he has a great way to get out of paying for your new engine.
 

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I finally got around to slicing open the filter from the new edge from its first oil change (just under 1,000 miles). Plenty of extremely fine sparkly metal dust in there.

And the service guy looked at me stupid for having them do it so soon. I'm convinced everyone in the auto industry has lost all sense of reality. Cars are not made to be cared for anymore, they are made to be thrown away. Just spend 40 grand every 5 years...
 

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I finally got around to slicing open the filter from the new edge from its first oil change (just under 1,000 miles). Plenty of extremely fine sparkly metal dust in there.

And the service guy looked at me stupid for having them do it so soon. I'm convinced everyone in the auto industry has lost all sense of reality. Cars are not made to be cared for anymore, they are made to be thrown away. Just spend 40 grand every 5 years...
The oil and filter the car shipped with from the factory is different than what you can buy in a store to counter the engine break-in. Change it too soon and you are doing the break-in with oil/filter not really designed for it if you want to get really nit picky about it.
 

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The service manual said change the oil at 1k for break in... I did what the service manual said, not the dealer. I trust the people who write service manuals more than the people who work at a dealership.
 


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