my kodiaks a 2020, just outside of break-in period as of last weekend.
Nothings wrong with my wet clutch, yet anyways lol. I was just curious if yours had it as well. Its an Interesting setup I hadnt seen until I bought my machine. I've been thinking about slugging it, but I've read its not necessary a lot of the time. All I'm planning on doing for the 28s is shimming the primary out 1.5mm, and if that's not enough eventually ill get a machined sheave. The shims will reduce the cvt ratio 12% and 28s are 12% larger than the stock tires so I'm hoping it'll ride more or less factory.
You shouldn’t need to slug it, unless you plan on running 2-3 mph in low (or 5-6mph in high) a lot. The wet clutch design Yamaha and Suzuki use is the best on the market.
1.5mm (or 2 if you can fit it) shims won’t be very noticeable, but it will help. I put 1.5mm and 26s on my Grizzly after the 3rd ride. It lost a mph or 2 on the top end, but it more than made up for the tire size on the low end.
I think they put 30 gram weights in the Kodiaks. The Grizzly got somewhere around 16s and a lighter secondary spring. Two different ways to accomplish the same task. But the Grizzly was a little sportier because of the clutching. You can swap out the weights and spring to put a little more power to the ground if need be.
A machined sheave is the best way to wake these machines up, but not really need. It will definitely help you keep the top end if you need to run 50mph+ often. A full kit from JBS or Hunterworks is money well spent when you feel the urge for more acceleration. But it comes at a cost.... you will run higher rpms when just cruising. So a regular day of riding will burn more fuel.