2011 "leveling kit"


alwaysFlOoReD

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Hua. Iays assumed I'd die some shrapnel related death if I tried that. And have been told by countless that once a spring is done, it's done. I've never believed that. Steel, while tough, is always ductile and malleable to a degree, even when tempered/spring. Then again, Hooke's law says once a spring is done, is done.



Hooke was also stupid, so who knows.

Did a quick read...
Didn't get the impression he was stupid, especially if his theory is still being used today.
When I was researching bending leafspring I found somewhere that there is a relationship to the thickness of the leaf and the radius of the attempted bend before catastrophic failure. The amount of bend being applied to re-arch the leaf is magnitudes less than required to break the leaf. If you have a 54" leaf and you apply pressure to 52 equally spaced spots along the leaf you might be changing the angle by .02 degrees per spot...depending on how much arch you are trying to gain. I would have no problem doing so.
I had a friend lift one of my trucks with his front end loader and the leaf got caught in the forks. The leaf bent at about a 45 degree angle with a radius of about 5". My research indicated about a 4 to 1 radius to leaf thickness is breaking point at 90 degrees...if my memory serves.
 


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JohnnyO

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A torsion twist, the pre-key mod, and earlier rear blocks will easily fit a 32" like a 32x10.50-15 or 265/75-16. A 33" will fit IF it's a narrow 33" like a 33x10.50-15 or 285/75-16 and if you use the OE 16" wheels you will need spacers. Wider 33's like the common 33x12.50-15 or 305/70-16 you will need a legit 4" lift kit or a body lift.
 


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