I would have no idea what that is like...
My 06 at stock ride height clears a 32 inch tire. I would think your RC reindexed keys will put your truck higher then mine at the lowest possible point. You will probably have to get those in place and then see what you need to make up in the rear.
So uh... Gump... Are you saying mine's bigger? ?
Yes, I'm still 14 at heart. Judge all ya want; I'm happy.
I had an 02' with the torsion bar twist and belltech shackles set to the highest mount on stock (220k springs) and think I could've easily fit 32"s under it. The ride wasn't terrible, but before I got rid of it I had a set of explorer leafs to swap out and never did it because I thought the ride may be too stiff unloaded. Only pic I had of it before I sold it (feel free to ignore the dusty mustang.)
So the idea behind the exploder springs was 2-3" of lift without blocking and shackle-ing my way there while keeping a softer spring. I'm starting to suspect my spring packs have been overloaded a few times; put a BII rear sway bar under it the other day (it did not have a rear bar from the factory) and its a different truck now. Guessing theyre still wrapping (feels like it at least). My overloads are facing the wrong direction (they bend down instead of up), which is what leads me to suspect they're shot. I texted a photo to bobby asking if they looked right to him. His answer was "hell no"
I'm forever leery on using lift shackles from my Jeep days after watching the TJ guys have to prybar theirs back to the right position after getting in a bind. Are they a problem on ranger? Any (even ancidotal) stories of shackles flipping over?
I'd suggest the pre-'08 blocks and extended shackle. Explorer leafs would be good option too. The add-a-leaf is likely to stiffen the ride too much (and short AALs also stress the rest of the leaves too much IMO).
Pulled a set of lift blocks, sway bar stuff, U bolts, spring plates, etc. out of a 2003. Have everything blasted and powder coated on the shelf ready to go. Just haven't installed until I have a game plan.
Re-using U bolts... Have heard storied both ways. Thoughts?
Not a fan of the AALs either. One of my XJs had Superlift AALs on it. Forever squeaky. Would like to avoid, but if a better option than blocks and shackles, so be it.
Are you thinking of upgrading the rear leafs from 1250# to 1750#? If so, lift pre-2008 blocks might be the better approach. If you are looking at keeping the stock springs, longer rear shackles might be the cheaper/better approach.
I have thought about a few times. Not sure what I have under there now. 3+1 configuration with Berlin eyes if its any indication.
I like the 1750s under the 88... to a point. They are really nice to have when I use the bed. But, it rides like a damn buckboard at times.
I do want to keep the '11 as more of a street truck, so handling is the first consideration when it comes to the suspension. Especially since the remainder of the M90 blower kit shipped this morning
Just need to find a machine shop not run by satan to finish off the plenum, and it will be installed.
Yes, I do realize lifting raises CoG, etc, etc. However, I'm also 6'3", and its a little low for me just getting in and out.
I did both on the rear. I found a set of 2.5 inch blocks from an earlier ranger to replace the 1.5 inch blocks on mine. Then I added the belltech shackle, but didn't use the end hole, I used the one before it. This got me about 1.5-1.75 inches of lift.
For the front, I would recommend that you see what torsion bars you have, and maybe replace them with some #1 bars.
I originally had purchased the earlier torsion keys (pre-key mod) for the front of mine, and had to max out the driver side key to level it out ( I was running factory B rated torsion bars) with about 40,000 miles. When I upgraded to #1 bars (purchase from Tasca for about 200 bucks for both), I was able to level the truck and had quite a bit of thread left on the adjustment bolt on the driver side (1/4-3/8 inch). The ride improved dramatically.
Also, upgrade the shocks while you are there, you will need extended length (I used Rancho 5000X).
I currently run 31 inch (265/70R16) tires, and could easily clear 32's, maybe even 33's
No complaints, and I don't think I will need to upgrade the driveshaft anytime soon.
HOWEVER, if you plan on keeping the truck for a long time, and you want 4" of lift, just get the Superlift Kit and be done with it.
Thought about the superlift kit, but, I'm cheap.
Literally just looked at the #1 bars on Tasca this morning, and read a few threads debating the differences in part numbers for them. I still am unsure of which they are, mostly because I need to crawl back under it and look.
Amazes me that no one seems to produce an improved/aftermarket bar for these trucks. Figured someone absolutely would have. Very interested if you know of one. How do you like your #1s? Just a ride quality improvement, or noticable differences in handling, etc?
The current ones I
believe are the B rated bar with 118k on them. No idea what their service life is. Definately feels spongy on the front, and tires are wearing slightly more on the inside. Waiting until I have the suspension modifications finished for an alignment. These tires are garbage (Cooper all-seasons), so no loss if they die an early death.
Coilovers were considered for the front until I saw the price tag for the kit. Not happening.
Already hung Bilstein 4600s on all four corners. Checked length on them when I did, and I can safely go up another 4" or so before needing longer shocks. Crazy how low the 2011s sit.
Not sure what I'm going to land with for tires. Something in the 29-31" range. Unsure if I'm sticking with the 15" wheels, or going to 16" yet. Since pavement and dirt roads are going to be the majority of the truck's service life, I've been reading on what to go for as far as tires are concerned. I'm leaning towards something in the 30" range, just much wider than the 235/75/R15s that are on it now.
Aftermarket rims and (unfortunately) spacers have been considered to increase stance width, but, once again, I'm cheap. Would like to stay with aluminum construction for brake cooling though.
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