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2011 ford escape AWD


racsan

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a/c question- Im a passenger today and the a/c is being weird, cold air when your moving but not cold (still blowing,just not cold) when stopped. low freon? (or whatever they use these days) usually air either works or doesnt so this is a new one for me.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

Dirtman

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It's up there.
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Compressor short cycling? Or clutch fan dead?
 

adsm08

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Low charge. Find the leak, get it fixed and charged correctly. DO NOT use that A/C-Pro garbage.
 

Uncle Gump

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If it's low on refrigerant the compressor should be cycling fast.

Sounds like an airflow across the condenser issue to me... if it can't shed heat in the condenser it can't pick it up in the evaporator. Is the e-fan working? It should come on as soon as you turn the air on.
 

racsan

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225/70/15-winter. 235/75/15-summer
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E-fan working. just got home from a 150 mile round trip. I’ll have it looked at and fixed by someone who knows what their doing. I might try and fix the hhr air someday but the escape needs to be done right. Great trip vehicle, I only drive it on weekends but its her daily.
 

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Charging an AC system correctly isn't hard, even without a machine. I have a home-brew setup that works pretty well. It's a bit tedious, but it works well.

HF venturi vacuum pump and gauges, a scale that does .1 ounce increments, and a 30 lb can of R134a.

I bought the 30 pounder because at the time I was building this I had the Expedition with rear air, so it took about 4 lbs, and my cost on a 30 lb can was actually a little less than buying 4 lbs worth of AC Pro.

The thing you have to watch really closely with those DIY jobs at the parts stores is that

1) The have sealer in them. They say it's safe, but so do alcohol companies, and it you look past the bribes and marketing you find that alcohol, like tobacco, is a known carcinogen.

2) R134a cannot be accurately charged with pressure alone. It is too volatile and changes density too quickly with temperature. This means the most accurate way to charge it is into a dry system and weigh it in. Unlike R-12 and the ester oil used up until 1993, R134a does not mix with PAG oil and carry the oil through the system. It pushes the oil around the system as it moves. Since the receiver/dryer is basically a big grease trap in the system and also the last thing the refrigerant goes through before going back to the compressor in a gaseous state, an undercharged R143a system can lead to an oil starved compressor. The guts of your AC compressor look a lot like the guts of your engine, and we all know what happens when those don't get enough oil.
 

wildbill23c

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Great looking Escape...a few others said too, the last good ones before they went full on soccer mom, mall crawler...although I'm not educated on how those AWD systems work, but I'm sure for most on-road travels they'd do just fine. A few years ago I thought about picking up a 1st gen Escape the ones back when you had a knob to select auto and lock for the AWD system, never did get one, ended up with my Bronco 2 instead LOL....which I think the Escape was the vehicle that really replaced the Bronco 2 as far as size back then as the Explorer is much larger....the new crossovers are just too car-like the older Escapes were more SUV like to me.
 

racsan

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I ended up having the local ford dealer check out the a/c. they said it was actually overcharged. they dis a system evacuation, tested for leaks then recharged the system. Just a bit over $100. money well spent since I really dont have the right equipment or experience to do the job, I drive it on weekends but its “her” daily driver, y’all know “mommas” car has to work right at all times, us guys just live with heaters that dont always keep the windows clear, non-working a/c, steering thats a bit loose, shocks that long outlived their service life, but you have to keep her vehicle in tip top shape. Since the HHR was rolled (and no longer has a/c ) shes not drove it. I just last week replaced the bent rim and passenger mirror. its a true “beater with a heater” now
 

racsan

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well damn, may need a new thottle body , I’ll try cleaning it first but not too optimistic on that. Was going to surprise the lady today and have her vehicle washed & fueled up when she got off work, got about 5 miles down the road with the escape and the cruise kicks off, and I have a wrench icon light up on the dash. I pull off and shut off the engine, restart and the light goes out, cruise works again and I head for the house to get my scanner, on the way there it happens again and now the check engine light is on along with the wrench icon. scanner shows P2119. I reset it and go ahead and refuel it and wash it. Of course lights come on again and I return it to her parking spot at work, come home to research and see what I can find. Probably not a cheap part. Just hope it doesnt die completely, I can live without the cruise working but its our only vehicle with working a/c so its going to still be out & about . Guess I go see what else I can find out.
375A37E4-7E98-41FB-BEEB-860A66298733.jpeg
 

adsm08

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Those throttle bodies were a known issue. I wouldn't think twice about just replacing it.
 

racsan

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Ive been thinking that, have to do as much R&R to clean it as replace it, might as well just be in there once. looked at prices on rock auto, hadnt looked at local parts places. She did get it home from her work without any issues. Guess with nearly 150K on the clock some things are bound to come up. I’ll save the throttle body cleaner for the ranger, Im sure it needs it.
 

adsm08

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Well the other thing to consider is that code. Cleaning will clear up a mechanical binding issue from excessive build up. That code is for a circuit range or performance issue. Basically it commands a move of the plate and doesn't see the corresponding change in the TP signal. That makes your issue electrical. Cleaning will never fix that.
 

racsan

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ok, good to know.
 

racsan

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well the throttle body was the issue, 30 min job to change out, runs just fine now. Even better I paid it off last week, saved 2K in intrest. Just sent a picture in to see if its rockauto “magnet worthy”. that would be cool if it happened.
D59801D0-AAEF-4F9E-BFA6-52842CD19558.jpeg
 

jimd1050

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You gotta watch those in-channel ones with the one-touch up windows though. They will often be seen by the window module as an obstruction and cause a bounce-back.

Also, you can reattach the outside ones, you just need more tape.
I have had AVS In-Channel ones on my '08 F-250, '15 F-350 and the new '19 F-450 - all of them have/had "One-touch Up" windows and I had no problem until the new truck... and it is a total PITA for some reason??? I've installed ALL of them myself as well so I'm not a stranger to how to do it? For some reason, the F-450 is touch as hell! No clue!

How are your holding up 'racsan'?
 


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