2006 Ranger Crew Cab Rattle/Resonance


ERA_Evil

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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger Crew Cab 2.3l Duratec
The truck has developed a rattle/hum and its driving me nuts, both hearing it and trying to trace it down.

Motor was rebuilt August 2018, it was eating up around 5l of oil a month, I thought it would've been a major problem but once the motor was opened it ended up just being the valve seals, but I figured since the engine was opened might as well replace everything. Pistons did not need to jump a size, but new rings were put in, new time chain and sprockets and chains (full kit), new oil pump, new gaskets, new clutch and slave cylinder and all. Everything was perfect up until around 1500 to 2000km ago (rebuild was as around 200,000km, now has 209,000km). It started to slowly develop a sort of hum/resonance.

It is mostly heard within the cabin upon start-up and above 2000 rpm's and above. Will not sound when downshifting and/or motor-braking, does it exclusively under load or sudden-fast blip of the throttle.
I once was curious enough to start it up, I slowly revved up until 5k really slowly (think taking around 15 to 20 second to get from idle to 5000 rpms) and the noise was not to be heard, however if you blip the throttle to 5000 it will be heard (all off this is while in neutral, no movement).

I would say the noise reminded me of when I put an intake on my Acura Integra, when flooring it and approaching high revs, it comes a point where there is a resonance coming from the filter/motor sucking up air, that is more or less what it sounds like (at least that's the only thing I can relate the sound to).

I put new oil and filter(always use Bosch), new sparkplugs (Autolite 103 gapped at 0.050), new spark plug wires, new transmission mount, I will be changing the exhaust soon as it is somewhat rotted and has some holes to see if this helps/eliminates the noise.

Another thing it does is that when hot, at times and only when the rattle/humming noise it present, the oil light will flicker on and off under load after 2000rpm's. Once the throttle is released the light will go off. For this I changed the oil, Valvoline 15W40 up from stock thinking it would help out. I also took off the oil fill cap to put my hand, and the engine is spitting up oil, which seems it is irrigating correctly up to the camshafts. Does not consume any oil.
After rebuild had an oil change at 500miles, then 1000miles then 1500miles and then 2000miles. then I did it at 6000miles. (sorry for the switching of units, truck is Mexican and has the mileage in KM). After these 6000 miles it started the noise, to which I changed the oil, the old oil had around 700miles, to the new Valvoline.

You are able to hear the noise predominantly on passenger side, and if you touch the floor you are able to somewhat feel the vibrations(perhaps exhaust, I did check the cat heat guard, it is not rusted nor does it seem to be the source of noise as it feels sturdy). I am able to clearly feel them through the pedals and shift stick but almost none on the steering wheel, I can somewhat feel it on the driver side floor.

I also changed the inner and outer tie-rods as well as the upper arm-ball joint and 3 u-joints chasing down this noise, as well new diff oil and trans oil, in case it may be relevant. Truck has Torsion Bar suspension, no mods on motor but an oil-catch can.
Truck is daily driven, has 31/10.5/R15 wheels and an 8.8 rear-end with 4.10 gearing, the trans is not the M5OD but an Eaton-Fuller FSO 2405 5-speed transmission.

Any help is appreciated as this is driving me nuts trying to chase this down.

Edit: I have searched this forum and other for over a week trying out all the little details I can find that can be the source of the noise. I also wanted to mention the around three times it threw a P0300, P0301 and P0302 codes, this was the reason why I switched out the plugs, I had some Bosch (they didn't have Autolite' s at the time) when I took they out they did not seem fouled, but the white, gloss ceramic on the outside was sort of burned/brownish near the base where they go into the metal. Switched to Autolite 103 and new cables, have yet to try a new coil (is there any way to test the one I have? It is 4 plug single coil not an 8 plug).
The last time I erased the codes and they have not come back, I did notice it struggles a bit when really cold, since the 103 is a heat range down so it may simply be due to this, but I am unsure.
 
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Uncle Gump

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I didn't see where you said you put new bearings in the engine... Did it get new main and rod bearings?

The oil light coming on when the noise/vibration is present... is concerning. I would definitely have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it for testing.

Did you resurface the flywheel and get it torqued up properly?

I have seen in the past where a flywheel has come loose and would set up a resonance along with vibration... one thing is for sure... if that is your problem... it's gonna get worse.
 

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I didn't see where you said you put new bearings in the engine... Did it get new main and rod bearings?

The oil light coming on when the noise/vibration is present... is concerning. I would definitely have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it for testing.

Did you resurface the flywheel and get it torqued up properly?

I have seen in the past where a flywheel has come loose and would set up a resonance along with vibration... one thing is for sure... if that is your problem... it's gonna get worse.
Sorry for the missing info, engine received new main and rod bearings.

I will go ahead and be acquiring and installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge as soon as possible to monitor the oil pressure, should be around 55 to 60 for this engine correct?

Regarding the flywheel I am unsure if it was resurfaced, it was discussed with the mechanic, however the flywheel did not seem to have any warping and had no abnormal wear, however I am unsure if the mechanic actually had it resurfaced or not. About the re-torqueing, I would expect him to have done this correctly, but alas, I have no way of knowing if he actually did.

Is there any way I can check if it was not bolted correctly without actually taking it apart? For example remove the starter and check for any wobble?

I am mechanically inclined and am comfortable doing most if not all things on my own truck, however in many cases I do not have the necessary/appropriate tools. When I do take it to a mechanic I tend to ask if I can assist, as I like to know what was done to it, ensure that it is done correctly and with what I asked for, as well as parts, and I get to learn something new.
 

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Am I reading correctly that you put 15w40 in a duratec?
 

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I would get it back to the repair shop for their opinion on the situation. I am assuming that you got a warranty here... and I would have done it long before now.
 

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I put in the 15W40 trying to chase down the rattle and checking if a thicker oil made any changes, it didn't. I am still "troubleshooting".

Regarding taking it to the mechanic, I kind of want to leave that as one of the last options, since I did not have a good experience with the mechanic, it was recommended by my father, since he has repaired several Mazda's from my dads work fleet, he is a good mechanic, I just hate the way he works.

He teared down the engine and simply stuffed all the pieces inside the truck, not even have decency to put some cardboard or anything, just directly over the seats, guess who has oil-covered seats? He used the truck to put his things and left it all scratched, windows down when it rained, broke several harness clips and left wires hanging all over the place, missing bolts and other things, I myself don't feel like taking it to him, but if it comes to that I guess I will have no other choice, that is why I am trying to remedy this on my end first.

I have since secured the harness as much as I can, I have replaced every bolt I could find missing.

Can any malfunctioning sensor cause this? I did find the Camshaft Position Sensor on the valve cover to be missing its bolt and slight rotated, I have since corrected and replaced the bolt of this.
 

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Can you take a video/audio of the noise? Duratecs are famously noisy clanky engines even when running in perfect condition. Mine sounds like a diesel some mornings but they generally run smooth as silk off idle which isn't what you are describing.

Im thinking its your exhaust. A small leak can be very annoying droning noise at certain rpms like your describing. But some audio would definitely help.

Id put 5w20 back in it asap though... those engines have very tight tolerances and small oil galleys made for thin oil.
 
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Can you take a video/audio of the noise? Duratecs are famously noisy clanky engines even when running in perfect condition. Mine sounds like a diesel some mornings but they generally run smooth as silk off idle which isn't what you are describing.

Im thinking its your exhaust. A small leak can be very annoying droning noise at certain rpms like your describing. But some audio would definitely help.

Id put 5w20 back in it asap though... those engines have very tight tolerances and small oil galleys made for thin oil.
Will do, thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I can get the exhaust done by this weekend. Will try to get the audio/video as soon as possible and upload them.

I don't feel like the motor is struggling at all, it seems to rev pretty normally, cannot notice any loss of power, although I do feel it struggles a bit if I floor it, to keep climbing the speed, although the truck does struggle anyways to get to 75-80 and it wont do higher than this (the Eaton transmission is way to torque, not designed for speed, 1st gear will only get you up to like 10-15mph tops, combined with a 4.10 diff, plenty torque but no top-end speed)
So it feels "normal" so to speak, however I try to keep it under 2000rpm's so it won't rattle, I know the engine is loud, always has been, but what is has now makes it doubly loud, which is what throws me off.
 

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Just had to comment on your concerns over your mechanic. Any good mechanic is pretty much guaranteed to tell you "hell no" if you ask to watch, help, or assist with a repair. Most refuse even letting you bring your own parts.

This isn't some shady practice. For one it's a massive insurance liability to have someone in their shop. If you cut your hand or something they can lose their business. Secondly mechanics make money by being able to get repairs done quickly and efficiently. Having someone there asking questions or trying to "help" just slows them down and costs money. Even having someone watch over your shoulder perfectly quiet is incredibly annoying to most people. Mechanics are solitary creatures who like being 100% in control of the work. Its their name and reputation on the door so if you want good work do your homework and find a good mechanic with a good reputation and then leave them be. It's a trust thing and while customers with obvious love of their vehicles makes a mechanic take more care and pride in fixing said vehicle... Your hovering does not lol.

The bringing your own parts thing is also not some shady scheme to make more money either. The mechanic has no way to know if the parts you bring are correct. If they start tearing your car apart and find that part doesn't fit or work they now have to track you down to take it back and get another one. Usually meaning your car is now blocking their lift or bay while they wait. They also have no way to warranty the work with parts they aren't responsible for. If the part explodes a week later and you come back angry there's nothing they can do. Thats not good for the reputation of the shop so it's easier to turn down the job.

Quality mechanics will have enough customers not to "need" your business so they will be more than happy to turn away work if it in any way risks their time, money, or reputation.
 
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I put in the 15W40 trying to chase down the rattle and checking if a thicker oil made any changes, it didn't. I am still "troubleshooting".

Regarding taking it to the mechanic, I kind of want to leave that as one of the last options, since I did not have a good experience with the mechanic, it was recommended by my father, since he has repaired several Mazda's from my dads work fleet, he is a good mechanic, I just hate the way he works.

He teared down the engine and simply stuffed all the pieces inside the truck, not even have decency to put some cardboard or anything, just directly over the seats, guess who has oil-covered seats? He used the truck to put his things and left it all scratched, windows down when it rained, broke several harness clips and left wires hanging all over the place, missing bolts and other things, I myself don't feel like taking it to him, but if it comes to that I guess I will have no other choice, that is why I am trying to remedy this on my end first.

I have since secured the harness as much as I can, I have replaced every bolt I could find missing.

Can any malfunctioning sensor cause this? I did find the Camshaft Position Sensor on the valve cover to be missing its bolt and slight rotated, I have since corrected and replaced the bolt of this.
Reading your description, I’d have to say this guy sounds more of a ‘
Hack’ than good mechanic.......
 

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Sounds like you're in jamb...

First thing I would do is put an oil pressure gauge on it and see whats going on with the oil pressure light. Not positive here... but I think the oil pressure relief is going to be 50lbs... give or take a couple psi. On a fresh rebuild... I would hope the oil pressure at a fully warmed up idle would be somewhere near 20psi a little south of that would be ok too... and at cruise speed you should be close or at the relief value of 50psi. Oil pumps are positive displacement... so the faster they turn the more they pump. So the higher the rpm the higher the pressure will be. And before I get slammed by an expert... these oil pressure numbers are off the top of my head... the actual factory spec could be different.

As for inspecting the flywheel while it is together... tough call. you could try taking out the starter or the inspection cover and have a look.
 

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Alright, so I put in the mechanical oil pressure gauge and monitored the truck for a couple days. After sitting overnight and turning it on, oil pressure is great, tops out at around 55-60psi and then settles back down to around 20, RPM's are around 1300. But then, the more the truck is used, the hotter the engine gets, the oil pressure begins to drop steadily and does not seem to respond much to the RPM's. It comes a point when the pressure simply stayed at 20psi regardless of the RPM's, and after a while longer it just drops to 10 and wont climb back up.
As well as long as I keep the truck under 2000 RPM's it wont rattle/resonate.

I also notices a couple drops of oil in the floor, from between the engine and transmission. I saw on a video on YouTube that the rear seal began breaking off and clogged the oil pickup. Could this be the actual issue that may be happening?

Also, is there any way to remove the oil pan and simply clean things up without removing the engine from the truck? It really angers me so much that something so simple as removing the pan and cleaning things up is next to impossible on this engine. From what I've been able to see online from videos and pictures, lifting the engine a bit would be necessary, as well as removing the transmission. However I don't see anything that would obstruct the removal of the pan, as I see no need to lift the engine(could someone explain why this is needed?) I did se a guy who had a 4x4 so he did need to do this due to the front diff/axles, but mine has none nor any cross members that would come in the way. I believe I would also need to remove the from timing chain cover?

As well, supposing I could get everything out, how can I test the oil pump to ensure it is working correctly? Or would it just be a better idea to put in a new on?
 

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Yeah... that's not good at all

You have to raise the engine to get clearance to clear the pick up tube. But if a plugged pick up tube was the problem... I think oil pressure would always be low.

I still say something came loose...

As much as you don't want to... you need to take it back.
 

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Yeah... that's not good at all

You have to raise the engine to get clearance to clear the pick up tube. But if a plugged pick up tube was the problem... I think oil pressure would always be low.

I still say something came loose...

As much as you don't want to... you need to take it back.
I was thinking that being left overnight any debris may come out of the pick up and settle down, then when it starts goin again it starts picking it up again and clogging.

Part of the problem was that the engine rebuild was done by a mechanic on my hometown some 200 miles away, and I am really concerned that the truck might not make the trip, so it would either be try and remedy it on my end or look for a way to get it over there. Which by any means I might as well start looking into.


Edit: The clearance needed, so something obstructs the pan from being removed, hence why the lifting of the motor, but what is in the way of the pan?
 
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Uncle Gump

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I tried to answer that question in my previous post. The oil pick up tube is what you have to clear. It sits in the deepest part of the pan. Once you remove the bolts from the pan... the pick up tube stays. You lift the engine to tilt the pan to get it past the tube.

It's a big mess you're in... and there probably isn't going to be an easy fix.

If it's bad enough you don't think it will make a 200 mile road trip... it probably needs to be pulled and torn down until the problem is found.

Edit... I have never pulled a pan from a 2.3L duratech in an 06 Ranger. So it is an assumption that the pick up tube is in the way based on your statement you said you seen on youtube. Dirtman has a 2.3 in his truck and maybe he will chime in an say for sure if the engine has to be lifted.
 
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