2005 Ranger tuneup

[nederanger]

I'm doing a 100k tuneup and couldn't find answers to a couple questions, so any help would be appreciated:

1) The Motorcraft spark plugs I bought (SP439, AGSF-32F-EC) are pregapped to 0.044 inch with a note printed on the box that "spark plug gap is not adjustable". But the owner's manual specifies that the correct gap is 0.049-0.053 inch. The original NGK plugs I removed had a gap of 0.053 inch. Can/should I regap the new plugs?
Also, the box has a note: "installation torque to 18-25.3 ft-lb". That seems kind of high for an aluminum head with a tapered washerless spark plug, and a Hayne's manual lists a generic torque of 7-15 ft-lb. No torque listed in owner's manual.

2) The fuel filter is expensive and it is so easy to change that I'd prefer to just let it clog before changing to a new one (that I'd keep in the truck as backup). I've heard that some fuel filters are made with a bypass that lets unfiltered gas go thru if/when the filter gets clogged. Anyone know if this filter has a bypass or of any problems with this practice.

3) Draining and replacing coolant, I'm only able to get about 5 liters to drain out (starting coolant level is above min. line). Rather than fiddle around with the hoses or engine drain plugs, I'm considering just replacing what drained out with new 50:50 coolant and repeating this every 50k miles. The old coolant I drained out is clean, clear, golden. This would be less work, no flushing is needed as the coolant looks very clean, and the coolant would stay in a constant average condition, rather than fluctuating from new to old over the 100k mile interval. Sound OK?

 

[racer190]

The plugs should not be gapped using any type of gapping tool. If you bought the right plugs they should be double platinum, and if you try and gap these there is a possibility of chipping off or cracking the platinum coating. Put anti seize on the plug threads and torque to 11 ft-lbs and your good to go.

I would just go ahead and replace the fuel filter, but make sure to buy the right tool to get off the clips that hold the filter on to prevent breaking them like I did.

If the coolant you drained looks good then get all that you can out with the radiator drain and just fill it back up. I do this on mine every 20,000 and it takes just over a gallon if you only drain the radiator.

 

[nederanger]

Hmmm. The NGK website states " If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode." So it seems that all spark plugs could probably be carefully adjusted. I wish the motorcraft plugs were pregapped to the owner's manual spec. so I didn't have to consider it. I want to keep the same good gas mileage (and smaller gap usually reduces gas mileage.) Thanks for the tip on anti-seize, the old plugs made some worrisome metal-to-metal noises when I removed them.

I guess I got lucky with fuel filter changes. I use a 6 inch adjustable wrench on the clamps. I align the wrench to cover the flat spot on the clamp and the colored spring catch, tighten the wrench to snug or partly depressing the colored spring, and then wiggle it a little until it releases the fuel filter stem. The local Ford parts/service dept. did not know if this fuel filter has a bypass, but did mention that running it to clogging might strain the fuel pump, so I'll change it as recommended. (I'm going to take a hacksaw to the old filter just to see what it looks like inside, though.)

On to changing the PCV valve.

 

[press 1 for english]

The plugs should not be gapped using any type of gapping tool. If you bought the right plugs they should be double platinum, and if you try and gap these there is a possibility of chipping off or cracking the platinum coating. Put anti seize on the plug threads and torque to 11 ft-lbs and your good to go.

I would just go ahead and replace the fuel filter, but make sure to buy the right tool to get off the clips that hold the filter on to prevent breaking them like I did.

If the coolant you drained looks good then get all that you can out with the radiator drain and just fill it back up. I do this on mine every 20,000 and it takes just over a gallon if you only drain the radiator.

You drain the coolant every 20,000 miles??????????? Interesting way to throw $10 away.

 

[Jason]

You drain the coolant every 20,000 miles??????????? Interesting way to throw $10 away.

Yeah, silly maintenance.

 

[nederanger]

I think the concept is this: instead of changing out all the coolant every "x" number of miles, why not change out 1/2 of the coolant every 1/2 "x" number of miles?

With a full-change-out-routine the coolant is in great shape immediately after putting in all new coolant, but is in marginal shape for the last 10k miles before a change. Changing 1/2 the coolant twice as frequently costs the same, but the coolant is always close to average condition (not great, but never marginal).

The partial, more frequent change is a way to deal with a coolant system that just doesn't want to drain and a way to keep from having a partial container of antifreeze laying around. You can change out exactly 1 container.

Think of it in terms of beer. You don't drink a partial bottle and save the rest for future use. And, you have a choice: a nice beer buzz for the whole weekend by having a beer every couple of hours (like partial coolant changes); or drinking a whole case on Saturday and feeling great, but hungover on Sunday (like used up antifreeze just before it's changed.)

 

[racer190]

I think the concept is this: instead of changing out all the coolant every "x" number of miles, why not change out 1/2 of the coolant every 1/2 "x" number of miles?

With a full-change-out-routine the coolant is in great shape immediately after putting in all new coolant, but is in marginal shape for the last 10k miles before a change. Changing 1/2 the coolant twice as frequently costs the same, but the coolant is always close to average condition (not great, but never marginal).

The partial, more frequent change is a way to deal with a coolant system that just doesn't want to drain and a way to keep from having a partial container of antifreeze laying around. You can change out exactly 1 container.

Think of it in terms of beer. You don't drink a partial bottle and save the rest for future use. And, you have a choice: a nice beer buzz for the whole weekend by having a beer every couple of hours (like partial coolant changes); or drinking a whole case on Saturday and feeling great, but hungover on Sunday (like used up antifreeze just before it's changed.)

Exactly.