2004 Ranger 2.3 No crank, will start from roll start or crossing the solenoid.

[puresin5187]

Need to know what the volts should be for the Red/light blue Wire leaving the ignition switch?

 

[Dirtman]

There is only two voltages available. Full battery power or 5v sensor reference.

Soooooo given that the ignition switch is not a sensor, it should be the exact same voltage as the battery. (Hopefully +12.3 volts)

 

[puresin5187]

Need to know what the volts should be for the Red/light blue Wire leaving the ignition switch?

battery is good and not every wire on the ignition switch has 12v or higher but im not really sure if i have the Wire that controls the starter but if the red wire with the light blue stripe Is supposed to have +12v then its extremely low

 

[RonD]

Yes, there is a red/light blue stripe wire that runs from ignition switch to fuse 21 in cab fuse box, fuse 21 should have 12v with key turned to START
Out of fuse 21 will be a white/pink wire that runs to clutch switch, above clutch pedal on the pushrod

Then out of clutch switch on a pink wire to firewall
At firewall wire can stay pink or change to tan/red in engine bay
But in either case it runs to the starter relay in the engine fuse box

Ignition switch(START)---------(fuse 21)-------(clutch switch)-------------(starter relay)


Cab fuse box is the SJB(smart junction box) which is the Body Computer
These have a known issue for corroded connectors, seen here: https://i1.wp.com/sparkys-answers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/DSC09929.jpg

Connectors have a lever that you lift up on and that pulls up connector away from SJB so you can then pull it off the rest of the way

I would pull fuse 21, then with a grounded meter I would test both fuse 21 slots for 12v with key turned to START, one should have 12v
If so put fuse back, ignition switch and red/blue wire are OK

Then pull out starter relay in engine bay
With key OFF, with grounded meter test each slot in relay base one should have 12v, remember that slot
Then have helper turn key to START and PRESS DOWN clutch pedal, and test the other slots, another slot should now have 12v


Diagram shows automatic trans as well, it uses DTR switch which is not used on a manual trans vehicle

 

[puresin5187]

Okay I checked fuse 21 It didn't have 12 volts with the key turn to start it got 0.40 volts at the highest. So I'm a little lost at this point on what my next step would be

 

[RonD]

And you tested both slot of fuse 21, only 1 should have 12v with fuse out

If so then the wire from ignition switch to fuse 21 is bad, or connector in SJB is bad

SJB Connector numbering seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?attachments/2008-ford-ranger-fuse-diagram-smart-junction-box-jpg.30179/

C2280A on the left then counter clockwise to C2280D at top right

In the diagram above you will see C2280B wire 27 should be the red/blue wire from ignition switch, it should have 12v with key turned to start
That goes to fuse 21 via connector then out of fuse 21 to C2280A wire 31 and out to clutch switch

 

[puresin5187]

And you tested both slot of fuse 21, only 1 should have 12v with fuse out

If so then the wire from ignition switch to fuse 21 is bad, or connector in SJB is bad

SJB Connector numbering seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?attachments/2008-ford-ranger-fuse-diagram-smart-junction-box-jpg.30179/

C2280A on the left then counter clockwise to C2280D at top right

In the diagram above you will see C2280B wire 27 should be the red/blue wire from ignition switch, it should have 12v with key turned to start
That goes to fuse 21 via connector then out of fuse 21 to C2280A wire 31 and out to clutch switch

Straight from the ignition switch if I do voltage on the blue and red wire it is very low and sometimes even in the negative so is it something with the ignition switch? Cuz I just replaced it not knowing if it needed replaced but it was when I was having the initial problem with the PCM not powering up

 

[RonD]

Sure, could be ignition switch, new doesn't mean "it works" anymore, new means NEVER TESTED now-a-days

Unhook either battery cable and pull out ignition switch
When you have ignition switch out hook battery back up and test the Yellow wire(s) yellow wire has 4 connections in the ignition switch, only 1 is used to power red/blue wire in START
Its the B4 wire/connection
red/blue is on the STA connection

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Okay I checked fuse 21 It didn't have 12 volts with the key turn to start it got 0.40 volts at the highest. So I'm a little lost at this point on what my next step would be

Well, when your horse is suffering you shoot it, so that might be a step you would want to consider.

 

[puresin5187]

Well, when your horse is suffering you shoot it, so that might be a step you would want to consider.

This 2004 horse would easily put your 1990 to shame and would end up shooting itself due to the embarrassment should probably consider that

 

[puresin5187]

Sure, could be ignition switch, new doesn't mean "it works" anymore, new means NEVER TESTED now-a-days

Unhook either battery cable and pull out ignition switch
When you have ignition switch out hook battery back up and test the Yellow wire(s) yellow wire has 4 connections in the ignition switch, only 1 is used to power red/blue wire in START
Its the B4 wire/connection
red/blue is on the STA connection

Ok ill throw the old one back in and test again thank you, ill post update after i switch it back.