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2004 ford ranger no fuel pump power


Nateranger

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I have a 2004 ford ranger 3.0 v6 with 210k miles. I drove to work and the truck was perfectly fine I turn the truck off and when I go to leave it won’t start just cranks.
I assume fuel pump because it didn’t turn on with a jump and when I sprayed starter fluid in it started.
I took the bed off and replaced the fuel pump and it still didn’t work.
We checked all the fuses and inertia switch and have power every where but when we checked the fuel pump connector there’s no power to it.
I don’t know what else to check any help would be appreciated.
 


Nateranger

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I checked all the fuses and relays for the fuel pump in the fuse box and everything had power
 

franklin2

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Just wanted to make sure you checked the underhood fuse box, not the one inside the cab. In the underhood fuse box it's fuse 23, 20 amp.

Do you have power on the darkgreen/yellow at the inertia switch when the key is first turned? Of course the engine is not running, so you will have to keep turning the key on and off to check for power, it will only be there for a couple of seconds if the engine doesn't run.
 

Nateranger

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The wire color is different it looks like the previous owner has replaced it before. But we had power in but not going out.
 

Nateranger

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Is there a fuse for the pump in the cabin?
 

franklin2

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Is there a fuse for the pump in the cabin?
None in the cabin. If you have power going in but not out on the inertia switch, concentrate on that. You can bypass the inertia switch if you really need the truck.
 

Nateranger

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I bypassed it and still nothing
 

Pastrysqueezer

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I recently had a crank no start condition too. Check for power at the inertia switch. You should see 12v at the switch for a second or two when key is turned. If you do, relay and fuses are good. Move onto the fuel pump. Pull the bed off and check for power at pump. If you have power there, replace the pump. My issue ended up being both a bad ground and a dead pump. Since you say you have power at the switch but not the pump, I would assume the pump has a bad ground or damaged wire for power. How are you testing pump for power?
 
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Pastrysqueezer

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Something that helped me was jumping the relay so that I wouldn't have to constantly turn the key while testing power. Find a wiring diagram and clean whichever grounds are for your fuel delivery system.
 

pjtoledo

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the connector for the inertia switch is prone to getting hot and corroding.
I had to replace both the switch and the connector.

at the inertia connector you should see continuity on the PK/BK wire to ground.
it goes to the pump, thru the pump, then on to ground.

on the PK/BK wire between the inertia switch and the pump is a connector, C312.
it's a square 16 pin connector kind of under the master cylinder.


the manual is a bit confusing, there may also be an 8 pin round connector near the transmission cross member.
that would be C311.
 
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Nateranger

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I recently had a crank no start condition too. Check for power at the inertia switch. You should see 12v at the switch for a second or two when key is turned. If you do, relay and fuses are good. Move onto the fuel pump. Pull the bed off and check for power at pump. If you have power there, replace the pump. My issue ended up being both a bad ground and a dead pump. Since you say you have power at the switch but not the pump, I would assume the pump has a bad ground or damaged wire for power. How are you testing pump for power?
I just tested it with a test light.
 

Nateranger

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Something that helped me was jumping the relay so that I wouldn't have to constantly turn the key while testing power. Find a wiring diagram and clean whichever grounds are for your fuel delivery system.
That’s what I’m going to try next
 

Nateranger

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the connector for the inertia switch is prone to getting hot and corroding.
I had to replace both the switch and the connector.

at the inertia connector you should see continuity on the PK/BK wire to ground.
it goes to the pump, thru the pump, then on to ground.

on the PK/BK wire between the inertia switch and the pump is a connector, C312.
it's a square 16 pin connector kind of under the master cylinder.


the manual is a bit confusing, there may also be an 8 pin round connector near the transmission cross member.
that would be C311.
I will check this out as well
 

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