- Joined
- Oct 5, 2007
- Messages
- 6,040
- Reaction score
- 3,796
- Location
- Toledo Ohio
- Vehicle Year
- 20002005199
- Make / Model
- Fords
- Engine Size
- 3.0 2.3
the electric fuel pump will turn on when the key is turned on,,,,BUT, it only runs for about 3 seconds.
that gives it enough time to build pressure to continue to start the engine.
when the engine starts the pump is turned back on. ( not sure of exact timing events )
under normal conditions the pump holds pressure when it turns off. that pressure is supposed to still be there days later.
however, the check valve doesn't always do it's job and the pressure drops.
that means the pump needs a few extra seconds to build pressure. more cranking time or multiple attempts until pressure.
yes, a new pump should put out good pressure, but are other parts OK?
a pinched line would restrict flow, a bad regulator can give low pressure.
a corroded power wire, or bad relay could limit power to the pump, a corroded ground can limit the powers exit from the pump.
the computer monitors the power going to the fuel pump. if something is detected as "wrong/not running" it kills the power.
your fuel filter should have 3 lines, that means the pressure regulator is inside the filter/part of the filter.
the fuel system has a collision detection fuel cut off switch. it's right above the passengers right foot attached to the floor.
the wires on those switches get hot and corrode, check that out.
my recommendation is to put a pressure gauge on, monitor while off, switched to on, cranking, running.
do you have a timing light? or a spare spark plug you can plug in to any wire and watch to see if the spark stops
first or the fuel pressure stops first.
check all connections, especially the ones with broken tabs.
that gives it enough time to build pressure to continue to start the engine.
when the engine starts the pump is turned back on. ( not sure of exact timing events )
under normal conditions the pump holds pressure when it turns off. that pressure is supposed to still be there days later.
however, the check valve doesn't always do it's job and the pressure drops.
that means the pump needs a few extra seconds to build pressure. more cranking time or multiple attempts until pressure.
yes, a new pump should put out good pressure, but are other parts OK?
a pinched line would restrict flow, a bad regulator can give low pressure.
a corroded power wire, or bad relay could limit power to the pump, a corroded ground can limit the powers exit from the pump.
the computer monitors the power going to the fuel pump. if something is detected as "wrong/not running" it kills the power.
your fuel filter should have 3 lines, that means the pressure regulator is inside the filter/part of the filter.
the fuel system has a collision detection fuel cut off switch. it's right above the passengers right foot attached to the floor.
the wires on those switches get hot and corrode, check that out.
my recommendation is to put a pressure gauge on, monitor while off, switched to on, cranking, running.
do you have a timing light? or a spare spark plug you can plug in to any wire and watch to see if the spark stops
first or the fuel pressure stops first.
check all connections, especially the ones with broken tabs.