2003 3.0 blows hot air confusions

[across281]

Blows hot air on max and reg. a/c. Compressor engages perfectly, figured it was low pressure switch, jumped it then it cycled on and off ever few seconds, no cold air still. figured low on Freon, system was at 25psi, injected 2 shots of 3 seconds each and then system blew (cloud of r134 shot out from somewhere on the low pressure side). Also, now ac clutch does not engage. So after I track down leak I am very stumped on what to repair since it was not low on Freon and the low pressure switch was good. Got one estimate from a shop of $1500 to fix before I messed it up more but ..... truck is worth $3500 soooo yeah. Any help is appreciated!!

 

[RonD]

There is no difference in the AC system itself between AC and AC Max, compressor is either on or off, there is no cool or colder setting, that is done with the vents in the cab.
When AC Max is selected the outside air/recirculate door closes so air in cab is being recirculated, AC can work better with this door closed since it is not trying to cool down outside air as it comes in.

Also if there is a heater hose control valve in the engine bay it will close when AC max is selected, this shuts off coolant flow completely in the heater core.


Your Blend Door could be moving when AC Max is selected, and shouldn't, blend door is the heat/cool door, it is electric, the other vent doors are vacuum operated

When AC is cold at idle and then warms up with higher RPMs it is usually low on "freon"

EDIT:
Sorry, reread your post and you say it blows warm in any position, could be the Blend door is not changing to AC and staying on Heat, so AC was working fine you just couldn't select cold air in the cab.

Google: Ranger blend door

common issue

But with a leak now you will need to find it and fix it.

 

[across281]

AC is hot at idle and whatever rpm engine is running at. I am also saying the compressor was working but blowing hot air before I messed with it and now it is obvious I have a leak now after attempting to fix. As I though it was low on Freon I feel that it could not have injected 10lbs into the system within 6s so I am just cluless on what could have gone wrong. I will obviously try to track down the leak that there is now but it was blowing hot(engine temp.) with the compressor working, system at 25psi, and low pressure switch is not broken.

 

[across281]

oh darn!!! I really goofed things up for something so easy! grrr thankyou! I will give that a try and post repair status on here!

 

[RonD]

Just as a heads up, you can rent automotive AC gauges, a good set, then go here: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/257

leak detection advice here: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/258

yes, check out the Blend door

Since compressor is on/working feel both compressor hoses, one will be very hot, it is part of the High side and goes to condenser in front of rad.
The other hose should be cold, much cooler, it is the Low side coming from the cab, the evaporator.
Evaporator is what the AC "heater core" is called, so the "cooler core" lol
If the other hose is not cold then you do/did have an AC issue.

Picture here: http://www.kentautorepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/auto-air-conditioning-schematic-285.jpg

 

[across281]

Do yall know if that black tube is a vacuum line? I may have.. cut it

 

[adsm08]

It is.

 

[RonD]

Black one is the Main vacuum source, it comes from vacuum reservoir "ball" in engine bay
Can be spliced with tight fitting rubber hose.

Light color vacuum line is for the Heat control valve on heater hose in engine bay

 

[across281]

OK so after all this time and $180 spent ($120 was vacuum + Freon) I discovered from another guys question on just answer that it may be worth checking the ac clutch relay ($11) and that was the problem. Hopefully my troubles help somebody!

 

[across281]

supposedly and 2002 fuse box used in early but not late 2003 models?