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2002 4.0 head timing

RayInStl

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Hey guys, I'm trying to get this explorer back up and going. I had the timing components replaced by a local shop (family friend) but one of the head bolts pulled the threads during install.

It's the left head (driver's side). I have the explorer back at my place now and plan to put a helicoil in the affected head bolt hole. But how do I reinstall the head? I assume the head has to be timed again? Do I have to buy the ford timing tool to do just the head or do I have to do all of the timing all over again?

Please tell me this can be done with the motor in the truck. :sad:

Thanks!

Ray
 


RonD

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If you can set up the crank and cams at TDC and then mark the gear/cam settings, you should be OK to disassemble and reassemble at correct setting.
Don't see any reason you would need to rotate the crank for this work, outside of a little back and forth to cleanup on pistons and cylinders.

You can rent the tool set for the 4.0l SOHC timing

Yes, no reason to pull the engine if you can get to hole you need to fix
 
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RayInStl

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The head was off of it when I picked it up. He had removed the head when it was leaking after the install. So do I have to time everything again? Just this head? I need to go looking for info on how the timing works. I read up on it once before, but that's why I took it to him. I didn't want to deal with it. But after that experience, I'm doing it myself this time.
 

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Are you assuming the mechanic timed the new chains?

A stripped head bolt would usually be noticed during reassembly, before timing the cams, not after start up ...........???

I any case, yes, you need to time the engine again, and yes you need the tool set for that, call local auto parts shops and tool rental companies to find one for rent
 

RayInStl

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From what I was told, he pulled the motor, replaced all the timing components, put everything together and timed it, but when he was running the motor afterwards to make sure everything was good, it leaked coolant out of the head. He removed the head and discovered the pulled threads then. He says it torqued fine. He doesn't understand what happened.

It was a bad situation for both of us. Ultimately he only charged me $450, which was his costs on things. I don't feel like I got screwed. He's been fair. I just want to get this thing back together. Right now it's in my back yard with the left head off.

Guess I'll start reading up on the timing procedure. Thanks for the info.

Ray
 

adsm08

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The timing can be done with the engine in place. Actually the only thing the engine has to come out for it replacing the rear set, and that is only because the hole to access the lower bolt is inside the trans bell.

However if one cam is disturbed both need to be set, and it does require a set of special tools. I picked up a set back at tax time from National tool warehouse, because I have three SOHC engines I am responsible for. The kit I got was the Ford master set, which they were selling for less than just the 4.0 tools, I figure I can probably use it for side work at some point and make my money back.
 

RayInStl

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Alright. What is the correct tool? OTC 6488? 6489? 6690? There seems to be a lot of choices. If I'm going to spend the coin, I want to make sure it's the right one! I'll have to check if anyone rents it near me. I didn't see any of the auto parts stores renting them.
 

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What about the mechanic?
Seems like a fair guy, maybe he could use some extra dough and will rent you his set, these just sit most of the time so...........
 

RayInStl

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You're a smart man! But, unfortunately, that won't work in my case. He's primarily a Volkswagen shop and didn't have the tool himself. He borrowed one from a ford mechanic he knows. I wouldn't feel comfortable asking him to borrow it for me to use.
 

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6488 is the 4.0 specific set, 6489 is the set I have, which includes the 4.0 tools.

6690 is the same as 6489 except it includes some tools for engines that hadn't been made when 6489 was released. Notably it has tools for dealing with DOHC VVT 4-cylinder engines and the crank aligner for the 3 valve V8s.
 

55trucker

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Curious,

you don't make any mention as to whether the mech doing the job replaced the head bolts while doing this work..

they are torque-to-yield.....can't be use twice. If he attempted to put the heads back down using the old bolts its no wonder the bolt pulled. It's a wonder that some of the others as well haven't failed.

read this for the torque specs as to how to go about torquing the bolts... lbs. (nm)

 
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RonD

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Yes, that was my thought as well
But poster said the mechanic was just doing the timing chains, which doesn't required head removal.
The failing head bolt tension was seen as a coolant leak between head and block.
A bad cold seal, which can occur when using MLS(multi-layer steel) head gaskets and pressure is not even across the surface.

It probably didn't leak when engine warmed up
 
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55trucker

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The head was off of it when I picked it up. He had removed the head when it was leaking after the install.
My mistake, I misread what I thought was a head reinstall during the work done.

Still.. I wonder why the mech tried to re-torque a torque-to-yield bolt that has been in place for .....how long?
 

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