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2002 3.0 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Advice


JeremyS

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2002
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Transmission
Automatic
2002 Ranger Edge
3.0l
127k Miles

I just spent the weekend before last tearing the front of the motor down to replace the notorious leaking timing chain cover gasket. It had been leaking for years but got to the point where it was dumping a lot of coolant. While I had it apart I also replaced the timing chain, sprockets, and water pump. Around a year ago I replaced the radiator (old one cracked), upper and lower hoses, thermostat, idler puller, and tensioner.

The truck was leak free for the first week, but it developed an oil leak on the oil pan gasket here the timing cover meets with it (below the crank). The old oil pan gasket must have torn or not sealed correctly when I put the timing chain cover back on. With the amount of grease/grime on the front of the oil pan I wonder if it hasn't been leaking for some time but I just didn't notice until I cleaned the area and started watching it.

The only fix that I know of is dropping the pan and replacing the gasket. I'm going to try to do this job without pulling the motor. In the past on other vehicles I have not used a gasket, but just some "form-in-place-gasket" RTV to seal the oil pan. I've read on here that some guys have used a new Felpro rubber gasket.

I'm looking for advise on what to use for the gasket? Also looking for any helpful advice on jacking up the motor and dropping or even removing the pan?

Thanks,

Jeremy
 


RideFord94

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Ive tried dropping the pan a few different ways. Weve always had to pull the motor. I would just glob some rtv in there if you dont have the time or money. But then again some people dont like my way of fixing things lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

Josh S.

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I just did the pan gasket on my 2000 a week or two ago. It was definitely a PITA for what is was, but I was able to get it done without pulling the motor.

I removed the motor mount nuts then hoisted the engine up as high as it would go. To get clearance up front with the fan just cut the fan shroud loose and let it move up with the motor. Next I removed the three bolts supporting the diff and dropped it down as far as it would go, leaving the CV's in place. After pulling all the bolts (draining oil first lol) you should be able to finagle the pan out of there after considerable effort and general swearing. It doesn't just drop right out cuz it gets hung up on the damn oil pickup so with the right twist and jarring it will eventually come out. My starter was unbolted and pushed up out of the way at the time I did this so not sure if that step is entirely necessary.

I used a Felpro gasket from NAPA and so far so good. It comes with 4 little thread-in stud things that you thread into the block at 4 corners, then snap the gasket up over, then snap the pan up over. Basically holds the gasket in place for you while you get the pan back up in there. Kinda slick I guess. You will need to put a 1/4" or so wide bead of RTV on the block's gasket mating surface where the crank round shape meets the flat surface on both sides, and as well as up front at the timing cover. Hope that made sense, kinda hard to explain. That's probly what got compromised when you redid your timing cover I'm guessing.
 

JeremyS

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A little update on this oil leak:

I was able to pinpoint the leak on the oil pan to a spot on the gasket right under the crank. It wasn't a bad leak, just enough to be annoying. I must have slightly torn the old gasket when pulling the timing cover.

The gasket was still in place so I got some good cleaner (electric parts) and really cleaned out the small gap in front of the gasket between the oil pan and timing cover. I also used some fine sandpaper to clean out the area and rough up the surfaces, followed by q-tips with cleaner and compressed air . I repeated this a few times until everything was perfectly clean. I then injected some good RTV from the top of the pan near the edge of the timing cover, all the way under the crank to the other side.

So far I've driven it several hundred miles with no leaks! Much easier than dropping the pan.
 

Josh S.

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Hell yah! I just JB welded some holes closed on my dirtbike pipe the other day. Get er dun skeeter haha
 

Red danger ranger

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A little update on this oil leak:

I was able to pinpoint the leak on the oil pan to a spot on the gasket right under the crank. It wasn't a bad leak, just enough to be annoying. I must have slightly torn the old gasket when pulling the timing cover.

The gasket was still in place so I got some good cleaner (electric parts) and really cleaned out the small gap in front of the gasket between the oil pan and timing cover. I also used some fine sandpaper to clean out the area and rough up the surfaces, followed by q-tips with cleaner and compressed air . I repeated this a few times until everything was perfectly clean. I then injected some good RTV from the top of the pan near the edge of the timing cover, all the way under the crank to the other side.

So far I've driven it several hundred miles with no leaks! Much easier than dropping the pan.
Did this solution resolve the issue for a long term?
 

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