2001 Ford Ranger XLT V6 4.0 Timing Chain Noise?

[mg677]

Hi All,

Recently picked up a 2001 Ford Ranger v6 4.0 with 63k. Just replaced the spark plugs, radiator fan, leaking thermostat housing, coolant flush, and timing chain tensioners. Mainly did the tensioners since getting to the thermostat housing was half the battle. No odd noises I can recall before the work, but I may just be listening more carefully now.

So I stripped the threads to the left timing chain tensioner such that it still torqued, but did not seal. Started the car and it dumped 0.5 L of oil before I could shut it off. Re-tapped the timing chain tensioner hoe and replaced with a fresh seali g washer (re-used the old one the first time).

So the truck runs well, but cannot remeber if what I think was the timing chain noise in the attached video was present before. Cannot hear with the hood down or in the cab. Is the noise normal or am I do for a new timing chain/guides in the near future? Only drove 5 miles after the repairs above.

Truck also has new oil, replaced about 3 weeks before the work above.

Video:

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Cold engine
Remove fan belt from crank pulley
Start engine
Engine bay will be VERY VERY quiet with no fan/accessory noise
See if you can localize any noises better

You can only run the engine 60-90seconds without water pump, so be quick about it, but its actually quite a long time(especially it you're waiting on the outside of the bathroom door, lol)

And you can REPEAT same test anytime engine is cold again
If there is no noise then it could be an accessory pulley is making the noise, spin each one manually while belt is off

 

[DILLARD000]

Welcome to the Herd; lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums.
Got here same Year+Engine+....

Can't really differentiate TimingChain noise in your video.
Use stethoscope if you have one, or big ol' screw driver to your ear trick, to narrow down where noise is coming from.
Can also take SerpBelt off & run engine for 30~45sec to get a clear listen of engine noise without Fan+Alternator+AirCon running;
dont let it run any longer or it will overheat without the pump running.
What weight oil are you using?
63kMiles/22yo = 3kMiles/year; not sure I'd trust that odometer, though engine does look very clean.

 

[mg677]

Thank you for the welcome! Removing the belt sounds like the way to go. Appreciate the advice. With that said, starting to think it is not too concerning.

Using 5W30 Castrol Edge.

Luckily I know the previous two owners and I know the mileage is original. However, sitting in the desert for 2 decades has not been kind to the rubber bits.

 

[RonD]

Google: Ford 4.0L SOHC Death Rattle - What does it sound like?

some good examples of the noise it makes
Which is similar to your short video, but hard to tell

 

[mg677]

Yea, found that video and does not sounds as bad. Thinking it may be fine, but will talk a fresh look tomorrow after driving it more than 5 miles.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Please keep us posted. I tend to favor the idea that you might need to replace the serpentine belt and at least one of the pulleys. The tensioner and idler pulleys have their own bearings that can dry out over time. I replaced both on my Ranger after I bought it, along with the water pump. I also have a new alternator on standby for when that's needed.

 

[DILLARD000]

Several video+audio examples below of V6~4.0L~SOHC "DeathRattle"
due to TimingTensioner+Guide failures; click here for more info on these Tensioners.

 

[mg677]

Removed the belt and took and took two new videos and a pic of the timing belt. Timing belt is dry/cracked and will replace. The first video is if the idler pulley. Makes a bit of a rattle when you spin it and has some axial play. I assume it is a good idea to replace this along with the idler pulley and serpentine belt? Or is this normal? All other accessory pulleys felt smooth and were quiet when rotated by hand.

For replacing that parts above, should I strive for OEM or is this kit from advanced auto fine? Typically stick to OEM, buy I assume these kind of parts are a dim a dozen.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

As for the engine noise without the belt, please see the second video. Gets louder by the intake manifold. Can dig into it more after work, but I assume this is the timing chain? Does not sound nearly as bad as any of the death rattle videos, but I could be trying to talk myself into it being okay.

For reference, I did take off the intake manifold to re-tap the chain tensioner thread. Pretty sure I put everything back okay.

Idler Pulley:

2001 Ford Ranger v6 4.0 Idler Pulley Play?

Serpentine Belt Removed

youtube.com

Engine Noise No Serpentine:

Appreciate the help!

 

[mg677]

A question on the tensioners. I initially primed them to confirm they became solid (and confirmed they were better than the old ones). Went to install the top one (left) and part of the reason I stripped it was fighting the stiff tensioner was extremely challenging. I deprimed it for the final install with the idea that the engine itself would prime it (cranked the engine without ignition until the oil pressure gauge hit nominal). Is this a bad assumption? Or does it take more than a drive around the block for full prime? Maybe this is why I have some noise, but it is not that bad?

 

[DILLARD000]

...tensioners. I initially primed them to confirm they became solid (and confirmed they were better than the old ones)
...Went to install the top one (left) and part of the reason I stripped it was fighting the stiff tensioner was extremely challenging
...deprimed it for the final install with the idea that the engine itself would prime
...cranked the engine without ignition until the oil pressure gauge hit nominal
...bad assumption? Or does it take more than a drive around the block for full prime?
...why I have some noise, but it is not that bad?

Believe you did the right thing: prepriming then squeezing oil out before install, then dead crank before starting.
After a few seconds of cranking engine, the 2 OilPressurized TimingTensioners should be fully pressurized when OilGauge bounces.
Consider dropping OilPan (relatively easy to do) , inspect for schrapnel\brokens from bad TimingGuides & clean Pan+OilPickupScreen;
if you hopefully find no brokens, will make you more confident, then new OilPanGasket + new Filter + fresh 5w30.FullSyn.

 

[mg677]

Sounds like a plan! Also, I bought the kit from advanced auto and replaced the belt, tensioner pullet, and idler pulley. Definitely much quiter, but still hear the sounds of concern in the background. With that said, I had a few non-mechanically oriented friends listen and I had to point it out for then to identify it. The sound also is the same at cold start, hot idle, and when hitting the throttle, which seems like it would not be the case if it was major issue.

Plan is to drive to work today and see if the sound evolves. Will also drop the oil pan this weekend.

Thank you for all the advice!

 

[DILLARD000]

Could try some LucasEngineTreatment, may help quiet things down?