2000 Ranger starting issues...

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I recently got a 2000 Ranger, 4.0 OHV, automatic, 4x4, extended cab, 137,xxx miles. The previous owner said that it always started fine when cold, but usually took 2-3 tries to start when warm. He had a mechanic play with it some, but never got the problem sorted out before he needed a different vehicle. It had a new MAF on it when I got it. I promptly diagnosed the IAC as being a little flaky, so that got replaced and it got new plugs and wires. The plugs that were in it were Autolites that looked ok to me, kinda looked fairly new, but they were gapped wrong, I had Motorcraft plugs, so I replaced them anyway.

Wednesday I went out for awhile, it started and ran great except PATS seemed to take a temporary dislike to my key a couple times, both warm and cold engines. I'm working on getting new keys.

Yesterday I had to go run and take care of a few things. Fired right up cold, seemed to run good. But every time I stopped somewhere, when I went to start the still warm truck, it would crank, fire, and die. Didn't matter if you tried to push the gas pedal or turn off accessories. Spit out codes for bank 1 and bank 2 lean when it did that the first time. The more stops I made, the harder it got to get going. At one point I let it sit long enough to get completely cold, and it fired right up.

Not exactly sure where to go with trying to sort out why it doesn't want to stay running when you start it warm. It fires right up nearly every time, but as soon as it fires, the RPMs just keep dropping until it dies, doesn't make any difference most of the time if you try to rev it. Once it fires up and idles, it's fine though, it will idle and run normally, its just the warm start that is a problem.


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[lil_Blue_Ford]

Before I forget, previous owner said the fuel filter was changed. I plan to throw another at it, but I can't really get under the truck to verify or change right now. Also, I checked the air filter, looks in decent shape and the air box is clean. Soon as I can locate my extra filter, I'll put a fresh one in just for giggles, but what's in there now is certainly good enough to work


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[adsm08]

Could be a fuel pump issue. Pay attention to the pump priming next time you are out. It could be getting screwy when it gets hot. Sometimes they will keep working as long as they are spinning but once they stop they have trouble getting moving again. Just like me.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

Electric motors can act funny after they warm up.
Also keep track of fuel level in the tank and longer start time
Gasoline in the tank cools the fuel pump, so if it does the slow start more when fuel level is low then that would point towards fuel pump as well
Lean codes on Bank 1 and 2 also point to low fuel pressure, 2000 Ranger should have 60-70psi at the rail when running, and not less than 50psi after sitting for a few hours

IAC Valve should open all the way when key is turned on, warm or cold doesn't matter, each time computer boots up it opens IAC valve all the way for starting.
This is why, without touching the gas pedal, a fuel injected engine will REV to 1,500+RPM when started and then drop down to cold or warm engine idle RPMs as computer closes IAC Valve to set that RPM.
So if engine is not REVing up when started then could be IAC valve is not opening all the way which would cause a slow/hard start

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Priming the fuel system by cycling the key on and off a couple times in a row has zero effect on starting. I can hear the pump running, although I know that doesn't automatically rule out a problem. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge of my own yet, but I'm going to add it to my list of things to get.

When I had it out on Wednesday, it was down around a 1/4 tank and it wasn't giving me much trouble. Thursday when it was giving me the most trouble was on a full tank.

When I crank it when it's warm, it usually fires right up and hits 1,500+RPM, then it promptly starts falling until it stalls. Touching the gas pedal has no effect. From what I can tell, the new IAC seems to be working right, even though the problem is almost as if the IAC opens fully then just drifts to completely closed.


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[Diesel Mechanic]

Try putting a temp fuel pressure gauge on it visible to you while cranking. Check the pressure while cold and hot. A 2000 regulates the fuel at 75psi. A failing fuel pump easily produce the symptoms you're describing.


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[cbxer55]

Whether the pump is good, or bad, you will still hear the loud click a second or so after turning the key on. As said above, it really does sound like a bad fuel pump to me.

As I said in my thread on starting difficulties, when cold the pump seems almost fine, met the minimum pressure of 54 psi. With a gauge on the rail, I could watch the pressure drop fairly rapidly after about 5 minutes of idling. It would get down to the low to mid 30's after that. Shut it off for 10 minutes, it would almost be normal again. Then it would drop rapidly once running.

Had the lean codes at the time, and the truck would barely accept throttle once the pump was warmed up. I was out driving around a lake when it happened the first time, barely got it home.

Electric motors don't last forever. Eventually they go to the electric motor graveyard.

I highly suggest you go buy yourself a fuel pressure gauge. I got mine from Auto Zone and it'e been fine for my needs. Because it really sounds like t he pump on yours has met it's demise, and hasn't got the memo yet.

Once you get a gauge hooked up, if the engine is cold, it may take 5 minutes or more for the pressure to fall off. Remember, the fuel pressure requirement is key on, engine off or running. For my 98, it's 54 to 72 psi.

 

[RonD]

That is odd that the cycling doesn't help if you can hear the hummm of the fuel pump each time.
Should get about 15psi added pressure each time key is turned on.

But the startup REV and then dying does read like you are running out of fuel pressure.
Especially if opening throttle plate doesn't help, should rule out IAC causing the stall, could still be causing it to die but with throttle open it should stay running.

And normally a check valve failure would be more noticeable on cold start with starting fuel pressure at 0psi

After it stalls could you add some fuel manually, i.e. quick start in the intake, via brake booster hose or ??

Curious to see if it is a fuel or spark issue
Could be coil pack problem, although 3 coils failing at once is an extreme long shot at best, lol.

EDIT:
Loosen the gas cap.....................before trying to start warm
Just thinking, what if after driving a bit the EVAP system is building up too much negative pressure in the tank, so restricting the flow out of the tank at startup.
Long shot but free to test

 

[cbxer55]

My experience with IAC's has been iffy at best. If you bought it from Auto Zone and it's one of their cheap ones, they don't last long in my experience. Last time I bought one, it went bad pretty fast. When I took it back, I noticed on their computer they have a premium one, made in Japan by Hitachi. I asked them to get one for me, I would gladly pay the extra for it. I did and haven't had another problem with the IAC in over a year.

But I do not believe IAC's will prevent it from starting. After all, if you pull the IAC plug while the engine is running, it will continue to run at a lower rpm if the idle stop screw is properly adjusted. Mine will start with the IAC unplugged.

I would think, if the EVAP was not functioning properly, he would get a code for it. A friend with a Chevy truck was getting a code, I checked it for him and it was EVAP related. He chose to trade the truck in rather than fix it. WHATEVER!!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yep, I figured that even if the fuel pump was on its way out, cycling should build pressure enough to help, but no.

Fires right up and runs great when it's stone cold. No extended cranking or anything.

I thought about the coil pack, started wondering if maybe it was becoming heat soaked and acting up. I don't know if one off an older 4.0 would be the same, I could steal the one out of my choptop and try it if that's the case.

I can try loosening the gas cap or giving it a shot of juice in the intake next time it acts up.

IAC passes the basic tests, so it should be functioning fine.

I didn't really feel up to venturing out today. Did a bit of poking around online about the problem and spent a little time with the truck. Swapped the fuel pump relay and EEC relay. Also found a loose fuse for the evap and such, so I fixed that. We'll see what happens now.


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[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ok, so let's try this on for size....

My buddy came and picked me up today on his way to go look at a commercial lawn mower. When we got back, dad was getting done with washing his truck and mom was cleaning hers, so I figured I'd pull my Ranger over for a quick wash. Fired right up and promptly stalled like it does when warm. Would just crank and not even try to fire. For giggles, I popped the hood and yanked the plug off the MAF. Vrrooom. Plug it back in while running, move the truck, shut it off, wash it. Go to move it back and it's not even trying to fire. Pop the hood, yank the MAF plug and Vrrooom....


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[RonD]

And CEL is off?

MAF sensor failing can cause your problem, but wouldn't be first on my list, lol, maybe I should change the order on my list

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

CEL is on, but I never cleared it since the last time it popped on for Bank 1 and 2 running lean. It's probably upset now that I unplugged the MAF. Prior to this, there was no MAF code.

I knew a faulty MAF could cause a lot of trouble, I went through that with my choptop when I did the 4.0 swap. I kind of ignored it as a possible problem because the one on the truck was replaced not all that long ago (still very shiny). I'll take the truck to Church tomorrow, see how it does with the MAF disconnected.


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[RonD]

It won't run great with MAF disconnected, but will start, it will stay in Open Loop and if Automatic trans it will shift harder not as smooth

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well... the disconnected MAF helped at first, but now not so much


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