2000 Ranger Mountaineer Swap PCM Reprogramming

[Williebum]

Hi All! I'm getting together the stuff to do a 5.0 swap in my 2000 Ford Ranger. I've got a 2001 Mountaineer donator vehicle and am working on sourcing some torque monster headers and other bits and bobs.
I would really like to replace the automatic trans in the explorer with a M50DR2 out of an F-150. I know I would need to get the PCM reprogrammed in order to have the engine play nicely. My question is, where could I get this reprogramming done? I did see something about a SCT tuner but I didn't see which one and how to actually get programs for it. Apologies if this has been answered before, but ive been looking around the past couple days and maybe am not using the right search terms
Thanks in advance!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Unless you want to "play with" engine tuning I would suggest just paying a programmer to do the work/changes for you

Check with local Speedshops or Dyno-tune places, they will know of local Ford PCM programmers or may do it themselves

There are some that offer their services on ebay, Ford PCM programming
Just check around for prices

getting the software to DIY it can get expensive, usually 3 or 4 times the cost of having it done

You want the manual trans software loaded, and maybe PATS delete, up to you on the last one, or they can add your Ranger keys to it
And they can match VIN and odometer as far as I know

 

[rubydist]

SCT offers something called Pro Racer Software, which allows you to tune one pcm yourself. Unless you know what you are doing, you are much better off to have a tuner do it for you. You have way less risk of destroying something, and if all you want is to remove the auto trans stuff, it will cost about the same.

 

[Williebum]

Well I finally have both the time and money to get this build together. I acquired a T5 from an '03 mustang, but unfortunately can't find any Torque Monster or even OBX headers. I've been looking around at local tuner shops to sell me a SCT and a tune, but haven't had much luck. Is there anyone known for this kind of thing online? Also wondering about some minor mods I should do while I've got the motor out. Is an EGR delete worth it? Also maybe a cam and some injectors?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well I finally have both the time and money to get this build together. I acquired a T5 from an '03 mustang, but unfortunately can't find any Torque Monster or even OBX headers. I've been looking around at local tuner shops to sell me a SCT and a tune, but haven't had much luck. Is there anyone known for this kind of thing online? Also wondering about some minor mods I should do while I've got the motor out. Is an EGR delete worth it? Also maybe a cam and some injectors?

Unfortunately, I have no recommendations on tuning.

Also can't help you on headers, lol.

I have been told that the EGR delete is not worth doing and arguably a violation of emissions.

 

[JoshT]

Ditto what lil_Blue_Ford said on the EGR. Nothing to really be gained from deleting it. Potential to loose, especially if anyone decides they want to look closely at your swap and emissions equipment. Vast majority of tuners will no longer consider deleting emissions equipment after a crackdown by EPA on tuners a few years ago. Companies that make the equipment, like SCT, have allegedly removed the ability to disable it from their software. You'd have to talk with your tune provider about things like that.

You can swap in a manual transmission without a tune. It will throw codes and may have a few running oddities, but should work and not have drivability issues. The biggest thing is that you've got to rewire the starting circuit from neutral safety switch to clutch switch.

The pool of OBX/Maximizer headers have mostly dried up dried up, I'm not even sure if the company will make any more. I've got a set installed and while they work they ain't that great. The real deal Torque Honster headers are again available to be ordered from the original source, but expect a 12+ month lead time. I intend to get put on the waiting list myself when the money frees up but that's not happening soon. If you find a set used grab them quick because they won't last long. I've seen one set sell used in the last several years, it was on eBay for about the same price as originally paid for them years ago (or a set of OBX now) and were sold before I could get a computer to make an offer.

You don't say if your Ranger is 2WD, 4WD, coil spring, or torsion bar. If you're 2wd coil spring, you might want to look into other header options. I think people have made mustang and Tri-Y type headers work before. Of course those won't work with the EGR tube, so you'd either have to get a custom tube made and bung added to the header or find someone willing delete.

If you plan to stay stock with the engine, there's not much point in the headers. The stock manifolds are restrictive, but you won't gain a lot from replacing them. The cherry picked results provided by Torque Monster said 20 hp increase, but the results weren't back to back with no information about weather or any other variables that can affect performance. Seems like 10 hp is a more realistic hopeful number for increase from headers alone, and you're looking at about $110 per HP.

If you're set on getting TMs, place an order and wait. Seems like everyone that has is getting them eventually, somewhere between 12 and 14 months later from what I've heard recently. Don't expect any updates while you wait. They'll be finished when they arrive at your doorstep. In the interim, install the stock manifolds and benefit from the added torque and V8 noises.

 

[Williebum]

Mine is 2WD, I'd have to look if it was coil spring or not. I know my dad has some Ford performance headers from his 96 5.0 mustang, so I might see if those will fit since they're just laying around.

The issue with the transmission is that my state does vehicle inspections, so I can't have any check engine lights. I could get around it by registering as an antique, but it's a couple years out for that. My thinking is I'll keep it stock for now and maybe do some performance upgrades a little later, so I'm sort of thinking I might as well buy something now to get rid of the codes and then have it for tuning later.

What's the consensus on bigger injectors? I've seen the 24# injectors on a couple builds out there.

 

[SenorNoob]

Unless you are adding boost or some other significant power larger injectors are just asking for trouble for no reason.

 

[JoshT]

As SenorNoob said, the stock injectors are more than capable of supporting your stock engine plus some. Calculation says they'll support somewhere around 280hp at 80% duty cycle, and the Explorer 5.0Ls only made around 210. Naturally aspirated the stock injectors will probably handle anything that the stock heads can produce.

EDIT: FWIW 80% is recommended duty cycle, but not a set limit. Many out there are pushing them harder, the stock injectors will support around 315 at 90% duty cycle and around 350 if you push them to the limit. So you've got a long way to go before you run out of injector.

If you've got inspections then EGR delete is very likely to be an issue, even if you get it tuned disable. Honestly, with that in mind I'd keep the stock manifolds and exhaust in place, atleast until you're ready to build the engine and know more about what they'll be looking at. That'sll give you a little more time to get past that antique registration requirement, but check to make sure that there aren't other requirements that come with it. If you place an order for a set of TMs now, you might even have them by then.

I can't tell you exactly what codes that having a manual trans will cause or if they will trigger the CEL (not all codes do), but they're just transmission codes. If the inspectors take the time to read them in the inspection they should see that. If you're going to have to get it tuned for removing transmission codes, it'll have to be a custom tune. Off the shelf tunes available for an Explorer 5.0L will all be written for an automatic transmission because they all came with one. Keep that in mind when shopping your options.

 

[Williebum]

I see, I was under the understanding that the motor would also run poorly without seeing the transmission, but if it's no real issue I will just put it together as is. Virginia doesn't do state smog inspections so exhaust wouldn't really be an issue either, but I'll look at putting an order in for TMs. Just doesn't sit well shelling out $1k just to sit waiting for a year for them to come. I'll put the order in and keep my eye out for a used set or something.

Pivoting from the performance stuff, is there any maintenance I should be doing while I've got it out? The motor has about 100k miles, so I figured it's gotta be nearing a service interval. I was planning on doing plugs, plug wires, checking valves, and miscellaneous gaskets along the way.

 

[JoshT]

IIRC running wise the main thing you'll see is some oddities at idle, namely the times when the engine would expect to see you sitting in gear with your foot on the brake. It's programmed to expect some load then, but it won't since you'll have the clutch disengaged instead. Also idle speed is normally a little higher for an auto IIRC.

Honestly the people that could tell you the most about what to expect are the fine folks over at Explorer Forums. I hate to send people off site, but they have the most collective experience working with and modifying Explorer 5.0L drivetrains, at least those retaining the OE ECU.

I do understand about the money and wait. It's not a small part of why I haven't ordered them yet.

 

[JoshT]

Maintenance? The usual maintenance items, but you'll be doing most of those anyway as part of the swap. . Plugs will never be easier to access. Wires will be off so good time to replace if they look old. You're draining fluids anyway. Fan belt is coming off, if it's cracking/checking then put a new one in. Check the fan itself for cracking. Replace any leaking seals. Check your rear main, but imo if it isn't leaking I wouldn't disturb it.

Nothing to check on valves, no adjustments there. At 100k, if it wasn't smoking in startup, I wouldn't bother with valve stem seals.

Take the time to clean everything real good while it's apart, much nicer for reassembly. If you want to paint anything, this is the time for it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Timing chain. My 5.0 had about 160k and the timing chain was noticeably stretched. I put a double roller on since stock is a single chain. I also replaced the entire cam sensor/oil pump drive assembly. It was worn enough that it didn’t like high RPMs. I put a new water pump and thermostat on while I was at it.