2000 Ford Ranger

[thatclapped3.0]

Does anyone have any knowledge on replacing the rear end differential components? And if so where do you guys recommend to order the parts from? My Ranger has a few teeth chunked off the bottom carrier gear from the previous owner, so I was looking to replace the carrier gears, and the ring and pinion, along with the bearings and seals. Any info is helpful!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Can't recommend a replacement parts place but its often easier to DIY the whole axle assembly and maybe even get an upgrade in the form of a Limited Slip(L/S) differential

If you look at you drivers door Vehicle label you can see what you have now for an axle, go here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Bottom of label under AXLE, is the code number

If you go to car-part.com

You can enter your info
You want "axle assy rear(w.housing)" as the part

And you can use either a 7.5" or 8.8" they both fit the same, so totally your choice
1993-2009 Ranger or Mazda B-series will fit your 2000
There were 9" and 10" brake options, again your choice if you buy complete assembly with drums

You can then see prices and locations to see if that's a viable option for you vs parts replacement
Used Ranger rear axle assemblies are not a big gamble, your apparent failure is not at all common

If you change whole axle you should use 4 new u-bolts to leaf springs, not expensive parts

 

[thatclapped3.0]

Welcome to TRS

Can't recommend a replacement parts place but its often easier to DIY the whole axle assembly and maybe even get an upgrade in the form of a Limited Slip(L/S) differential

If you look at you drivers door Vehicle label you can see what you have now for an axle, go here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Bottom of label under AXLE, is the code number

If you go to car-part.com

You can enter your info
You want "axle assy rear(w.housing)" as the part

And you can use either a 7.5" or 8.8" they both fit the same, so totally your choice
1993-2009 Ranger or Mazda B-series will fit your 2000
There were 9" and 10" brake options, again your choice if you buy complete assembly with drums

You can then see prices and locations to see if that's a viable option for you vs parts replacement
Used Ranger rear axle assemblies are not a big gamble, your apparent failure is not at all common

If you change whole axle you should use 4 new u-bolts to leaf springs, not expensive parts

It is a 7.5” Rear end, and if I don’t have to replace the whole axle housing I would prefer not to. My ring and pinion is good but the bottom gear in the carrier is missing 3-4 teeth, and there’s one good tooth in between the ones that are broke. Whenever I pulled the cover off the fluid was toxic, no viscosity to it at all. That’s when I noticed the teeth missing off the one carrier gear.

 

[ericbphoto]

What RonD said is usually easiest and cheapest. A used axle will probably be 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of rebuilding the old one plus you might get the limited slip upgrade.

 

[MikeG]

It sounds like you are referring to the 'spider gears,' there is no top and bottom, as the carrier rotates

Missing gear parts had to go somewhere.... make sure that there isn't a chunk or two in the housing. Don't forget to push a rag through the axletubes.

If you can get the center pin out, then replacing a spider gear shouldn't be a problem.

 

[ericbphoto]

If the lubricant has failed and you have broken teeth, your bearings are getting damaged. I am happy so far with the Yukon gears and parts that went into my axle rebuild. But it’s expensive to do and not easy if you haven’t done it before. Add in the price of a small beam type torque wrench a large torque wrench capable of about 300 ft-lbs, dial indicator with magnetic base and a good pair of calipers to measure shim thicknesses.

 

[RonD]

It is a 7.5” Rear end, and if I don’t have to replace the whole axle housing I would prefer not to. My ring and pinion is good but the bottom gear in the carrier is missing 3-4 teeth, and there’s one good tooth in between the ones that are broke. Whenever I pulled the cover off the fluid was toxic, no viscosity to it at all. That’s when I noticed the teeth missing off the one carrier gear.

So you feel that the broken gear was a manufacturing defect in that gear that was stressed because of wrong fluid lubrication?

Its a tough call, if it was caused by a mis-alignment then new gears will also break over time

Yes, for sure find all the missing teeth before re-assembly, also look for shims that may have come out causing the mis-alignment, IF that was the problem

 

[thatclapped3.0]

So you feel that the broken gear was a manufacturing defect in that gear that was stressed because of wrong fluid lubrication?

Its a tough call, if it was caused by a mis-alignment then new gears will also break over time

Yes, for sure find all the missing teeth before re-assembly, also look for shims that may have come out causing the mis-alignment, IF that was the problem

I think it’s user error from the previous owner. I believe i have pictures of it somewhere, but it looks like he broke it, and then tried to weld it. Because when I pulled the cover off I didn’t even know the teeth were broke till I jacked the rear end up, and turned the rear wheels. Theres also what looks like a weld mark on the inside of the cover too.

 

[RonD]

OK, then yes most likely new gears would fix it, but you still have the mystery of why a gear broke in the first place, previous owner would have no reason to weld anything if it wasn't broken first

Just playing devil's advocate, all guessing on my part

 

[thatclapped3.0]

OK, then yes most likely new gears would fix it, but you still have the mystery of why a gear broke in the first place, previous owner would have no reason to weld anything if it wasn't broken first

Just playing devil's advocate, all guessing on my part

I appreciate any and all info I can get lol, I called around this morning to a few salvage yards and I was able to find a whole Rear end assembly for 195, with a 50 core charge. So I honestly just may end up swapping out the whole rear end, the more I think about it the better of a option it sounds like.