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2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L 2WD Fuel Pump Replacement


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2000
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Stock 225/70R15
Hey there, new to the forum. Just a quick run down. Truck keeps stalling In the summer time. Usually at points when the truck is under more stress like needing to go up steep hills or just driving for a few hours at a time in the 90 degree heat, or while running the a/c at any of those 2 points. I’m blindly replacing parts because ya know I don’t get a damn code or a light thrown for f*cken anything on this truck. Anyways, replaced a fuel filter and it’s still stalling. Usually bogs at 80mph on the highway after driving a while with the a/c in the 90degree heat, the gas petal refuses to give it gas, gauges start flipping out, and the truck will eventually slow all the way down and die. Restart it and it gets right up to 80 like it’s fine. It’s reoccurring in the summer time, all parts are original (144k miles) and I’m struggling to figure this stalling thing out so I’m going with a new fuel pump. Just need help figuring what the heck the first pictured fuel pump is and if I can use it instead or if it’s some sort of exterior fuel pump in addition to the intank fuel pump (the Second picture is the other regular intake fuel pump on auto zones website). And some pointers on what could be stalling the truck. Truck kicks ass in the winter but now my mpg is worse and the truck is back to stalling every drive into the city. Live in New Mexico by the way, summer time is high 80’s to sometimes 100degrees in dry heat, 1mile up in elevation.
 

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Dirtman

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The first pic is a mechanical fuel pump from a carbeurated engine, cant be used on your truck in any way.

The second pic is a pile of garbage and is almost 100% guaranteed to fail in 3 months if it even works in the first place.

There's no point even replacing the fuel pump though because you haven't figured out if that's the problem. Your symptoms do not sound like a bad fuel pump to me. Check the fuel pressure, check the fuel pressure regulator, also if the truck stalls there will be a check engine light. Does the light come on when you turn the key to the run position?
 
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Stock 225/70R15
I do not get a check engine light when it stalls or when I turn it to run after it stalling. that’s what I meant in the first post, it’s frustrating since I have no lights that come on. When I replaced the fuel filter, the old one was filled with black crap when I poured it out. And the fuel pressure seemed fine at the engine when I pressed the valve, shot right out like it gets plenty of pressure. Like I said it’s just a summer time thing. I read a couple places that the temperature of the vehicle going up can cease up a fuel pump that’s failing, but I have no indication that the engines temperature is over heating when it starts to die after a long drive in the heat. How would I check the regulator?
 
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I forgot to mention my 2 lights that I do have are constant on the dash, I have an abs light and emergency brake light. Now I do have leaky master cylinder that I’m going to replace within the next couple days. There is also brake fluid on my brake petal where the brake petal comes from the fire wall. Another reason I think my truck could be stalling is the balloon in my brake booster is open and brake fluid is getting into it. Maybe that’s why I’m seeing brake fluid past the fire wall inside the cab. But I don’t understand why it’s a reoccurring thing in the high heat
 

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If the check engine light doesnt come on when turning the truck to the run position then the bulb is burnt out. Scan it and get the codes.

Fuel pressure must be checked with a guage, some pressure doesn't mean the correct pressure. A simple test for the fuel pressure regulator is to pull the vacuum line and smell for gas. But I'm willing to bet the scanner will tell you more.
 

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I forgot to mention my 2 lights that I do have are constant on the dash, I have an abs light and emergency brake light. Now I do have leaky master cylinder that I’m going to replace within the next couple days. There is also brake fluid on my brake petal where the brake petal comes from the fire wall. Another reason I think my truck could be stalling is the balloon in my brake booster is open and brake fluid is getting into it. Maybe that’s why I’m seeing brake fluid past the fire wall inside the cab. But I don’t understand why it’s a reoccurring thing in the high heat
Your ABS and Brake lights sound like a wheel speed sensor or an issue with the ABS. A decent scan tool can grab which sensor / live data of all of them and you can spot which one reads 248mph while it's in park... I am unsure of how to do it at home with a VOM. This may or may not be the case for your vehicle as you have other brake problems going on.

Get those brakes fixed buddy, order of priority (at least for me): Brakes>Oil>Tires/suspension>everything else. The brake issues (including the lights) should have no affect on your particular fuel problem. I would start with a fuel pressure test, a gauge will cost you about 10-20 from harbor freight, it won't be used often. You said the fuel filter drained out blackish fluid, If you want to verify your fuel is good drain the new filter and see if it comes out cleanish, if it doesn't then you still have a lot of contaminants.

As for the heat, does it only happen at high speed? It may not be related to the heat as much as it appears to be.
 
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If the check engine light doesnt come on when turning the truck to the run position then the bulb is burnt out. Scan it and get the codes.

Fuel pressure must be checked with a guage, some pressure doesn't mean the correct pressure. A simple test for the fuel pressure regulator is to pull the vacuum line and smell for gas. But I'm willing to bet the scanner will tell you more.
Ohhhhh now I see what you meant by it turning on. Bulb is fine and it does come on at the run position. I had my heater hoses disconnected about a month back when they blew on me and since they were disconnected I did get a check engine light since there was a vacuum leak there.
 

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If your brake booster is bad the way you describe, then you most likely have a vacuum leak there. A vacuum leak will affect the fuel pressure regulator. I would recommend replacing the brake booster. Then see how the engine runs. You should probably fix the issue with your gauge cluster concerning the warning lights. They are very helpful in figuring out when something is wrong with the truck.
 
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Ford Ranger
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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
Stock
Tire Size
Stock 225/70R15
Your ABS and Brake lights sound like a wheel speed sensor or an issue with the ABS. A decent scan tool can grab which sensor / live data of all of them and you can spot which one reads 248mph while it's in park... I am unsure of how to do it at home with a VOM. This may or may not be the case for your vehicle as you have other brake problems going on.

Get those brakes fixed buddy, order of priority (at least for me): Brakes>Oil>Tires/suspension>everything else. The brake issues (including the lights) should have no affect on your particular fuel problem. I would start with a fuel pressure test, a gauge will cost you about 10-20 from harbor freight, it won't be used often. You said the fuel filter drained out blackish fluid, If you want to verify your fuel is good drain the new filter and see if it comes out cleanish, if it doesn't then you still have a lot of contaminants.

As for the heat, does it only happen at high speed? It may not be related to the heat as much as it appears to be.
Ya know I want to just say yeah let me get a scan tool but for my year ranger I’m only working with abs test connector, I can’t scan for codes on my 2000. and my 2000 is even weirder I found out because everybody with a 2000 can’t find their abs test connector lol. So it’s just a matter of grounding a lead to fuse #30 to get my abs flash codes. I only have rear abs too (even weirder I know) and the only pets I have not replaced on my entire abs system is my rear brake proportioning valve and rabs module. Although the emergency brake light being constant is some other problem I have yet to figure out. Now I have yet to determine if it’s a fuel problem stalling the truck, I just assumed fuel system problems since my truck decides to stop giving gas from the petal at 80mph
 
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If your brake booster is bad the way you describe, then you most likely have a vacuum leak there. A vacuum leak will affect the fuel pressure regulator. I would recommend replacing the brake booster. Then see how the engine runs. You should probably fix the issue with your gauge cluster concerning the warning lights. They are very helpful in figuring out when something is wrong with the truck.
I will have to look further into the brake booster, since I am replacing the master cylinder here soon maybe I can pull the brake booster off as well and find something.
 

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A speed sensor usually throws both the ABS and Ebrake lights, if you think it is two different issues... well you know the vehicle better so I won't doubt. Sounds like you know how to get the ABS codes, I'd start there and perhaps the Ebrake issue will be solved with it.

I would start with the brake booster as you KNOW it has a problem, even if the vehicle does not know that. As ericB said, it does affect the fuel system (I keep thinking of my 2004 sorry) and you will have to fix it regardless of the fuel issue to have a safe vehicle.
 
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A speed sensor usually throws both the ABS and Ebrake lights, if you think it is two different issues... well you know the vehicle better so I won't doubt. Sounds like you know how to get the ABS codes, I'd start there and perhaps the Ebrake issue will be solved with it.

I would start with the brake booster as you KNOW it has a problem, even if the vehicle does not know that. As ericB said, it does affect the fuel system (I keep thinking of my 2004 sorry) and you will have to fix it regardless of the fuel issue to have a safe vehicle.
Well I replaced my master cylinder just a little bit ago and now my abs light and emergency brake light are off. e brake light comes on now only when the e brake is engaged now. Happy that I’ve finally fixed the abs after half a year. Anyways, pulled valve from the brake booster while it was off and there was plenty of pressure coming out the brake booster. I don’t think there is a problem with the booster but I couldn’t know for sure. And I’m not sure that changing just the master will keep me from stalling. My master cylinder was leaking out the back and from the base of the reservoir. Have to take a drive into town to figure the stalling problem is still there
 

Lord Corn

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Well I replaced my master cylinder just a little bit ago and now my abs light and emergency brake light are off. e brake light comes on now only when the e brake is engaged now. Happy that I’ve finally fixed the abs after half a year. Anyways, pulled valve from the brake booster while it was off and there was plenty of pressure coming out the brake booster.
Good start, I have no idea on how to check the status of the booster, but now you should be okay to hook a pressure gauge to the test port (or directly into the line coming from the filter depending on your needs), and record your KeyOn/EngineOff pressure. Then grab the pressure at idle. This is the Harbor Freight Pump Tester Kit, It is $20 and allows you to hook to the schrater valve or the fuel line currently attached to the fuel rail. GET THREAD TAPE because it's made by harbor freight.

Any update on the second fuel filter? I'm curious if you still had some gunk in the tank when you put the new filter on, I've only done that a time or two, or four.
 
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Location
Albuquerque New Mexico
Vehicle Year
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Ford Ranger
Engine Size
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
Stock
Tire Size
Stock 225/70R15
Good start, I have no idea on how to check the status of the booster, but now you should be okay to hook a pressure gauge to the test port (or directly into the line coming from the filter depending on your needs), and record your KeyOn/EngineOff pressure. Then grab the pressure at idle. This is the Harbor Freight Pump Tester Kit <---, It is $20 and allows you to hook to the schrater valve or the fuel line currently attached to the fuel rail. GET THREAD TAPE because it's made by harbor freight.

Any update on the second fuel filter? I'm curious if you still had some gunk in the tank when you put the new filter on, I've only done that a time or two, or four.
Right on, I’ll have to go pick one up, probably take the fuel filter completely off and to check and see what comes out of it. I’ll do that when I hook up a pressure gauge
 


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