2000 5.0 Explorer Swap Into 98 Ranger 4.0


DonovanJM

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I'm always a fan of stronger so the BW4406 calls to me. I have two worries though. 1. Fitment. I'm not sure I have the welding skills or equipment to move the engine over to make room. 2. Driveshafts. In the Explorer thread it talks about using a 4.6L front and a 5.4L rear with and adapter. Do those fit the Ranger? I have seen other people say they have used both the front and rear from a standard cab f150 4.6L It seems all over the place.
 


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G8orFord

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Because the F150 case is immensely stronger, and because it gives you an opportunity to go with a manual case. There isn't much cobbling to it. Alternatively, you're sourcing an expensive adapter to use a weaker case.
Because we are cheap, lazy or both.

The BW1354 shaft installs from the front of the 4R70W. So you will need to pull everything out of transmission - pump, gears, clutches, etc to remove the existing output shaft and replace with the one for Ranger transfer case. It's OK, if you were planning on rebuilding the transmission anyways, but it is a lot of work if you have a good transmission. And a lot of people are intimidated/don't have tools to rebuild an automatic.

Note: Swapping the transmission to transfer case housing is child's play, so I am discounting the requirement to do that.

The Advance Adapters sells the shaft for ~$600 US with availability occasionally being sketchy. $1k Cdn after purchase, shipping, duty made me look into other solutions.

And ya, the 31 spline input shaft/34 (BW1356) or 39 (BW4406) tooth gears of F-150 case are substantially stronger than the 25 splines/24 tooth gears of the Ranger case. And the BW4406 can be found in electric shift models that basically bolt/wire in (look for Expeditions of same vintage as your Ranger), if you don't want to cut the floor up. The BW4406 is also only 14.5mm (~9/16") wider center to center than BW1350/4, so fits between frame rails a lot nicer than BW1356.
Thanks guys. That's just the information I was looking for. $600 for an adapter seems a bit pricey. I haven't seen one, but damn! it must be a pretty piece. I would like to keep the electronic shifting if that's a possibility. Just a preference. I know the manual shift is probably a bit more reliable, but I'm also not building an offroader, so that's not as critical to me as it might be to some of you.
 

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Its a ~9" x Ø 2" cylinder of steel with a couple grooves, holes, 25 splines and heat treat. But when you have market cornered, you can just just below what a competitor could tool up for.

You shouldn't need to move engine over for BW4406. BW1356 is different story - it is 3" wider for shaft centers, and 4-5/8" wider overall. I recognize, I play with supercabs so things like gas tank are a little further away/frame rails are a little deeper and when shoe horning, a size larger makes big difference.

My truck being SCLB with Superlift, is so far from std, that I'm no help with driveshafts - both mine are custom.
 

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Thanks guys. That's just the information I was looking for. $600 for an adapter seems a bit pricey. I haven't seen one, but damn! it must be a pretty piece. I would like to keep the electronic shifting if that's a possibility. Just a preference. I know the manual shift is probably a bit more reliable, but I'm also not building an offroader, so that's not as critical to me as it might be to some of you.
If running the stock ranger tcase with a the adapter then the electric shift will work fine. The 4x4 uses it's on module to control everything.
 

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It's also possible to use the stock controls with the part time electric shift F150 case. I'm not sure of the wiring details, but I think that's discussed in the thread I previously linked from Explorer Forum. Just be sure not to get one of the 4406 Control Trac cases.
 

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I pulled the bed back off yesterday and installed the float assembly off my old pump onto the new one. Fuel gauge is back to normal now.
 

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Checked fuel pressure and reving under load it only drops from 60psi to 54psi. Holds full pressure when truck is off. I am getting more wobbles from the rear end. I noticed if I power brake it for a second I get the seat of the pants feel back driving down the road. I am about to start working on getting the expo rear end in the truck. Mine is toast.
 
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Craig0320

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Finally got the explorer leafs installed. They rear end sat one inch below the front so I installed the blocks and now it has 2 inches of rake in the back. I think I am going to plasma cut them down to 1 inch to make it have less noticeable rake. I spent 1 1/2 hours on the drivers side grinding and cutting bolts. I removed and installed the passengers side in 10 friggin minutes because everything came right out. Springs feel great and truck squats an inch when I step on the back bumper and not 4 inches lol.

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Very interesting thread guys. Hope it continues. I'm doing a 2WD `96 Explorer V8 swap into a `96 Splash. I've had two V8 Rangers previously. First one was a `90 with a 5.0 and the second one was a `96 with a 347. My brother did the `90 swap after I sold it to him with a blown V6. He also bought the 347 already done and then sold it to me. I eventually sold both due to not passing the etests we had. Emissions testing has been cancelled now though so it's my turn to build one. I'm gonna keep all the emissions stuff and make it run as as clean as possible. Just not gonna have to pass idiotic pointless tests. `87 and older vehicles were exempt so I can only imagine how badly my `50 Ford would have failed. It still has the original flathead V8 in it.

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Good deal. When you start a thread on it keep us updated.
 

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It's also possible to use the stock controls with the part time electric shift F150 case. I'm not sure of the wiring details, but I think that's discussed in the thread I previously linked from Explorer Forum. Just be sure not to get one of the 4406 Control Trac cases.
Clarification on this - apparently it's as simple as using the stock Ranger shift motor on the electric shift 4406 rather than its original F150 shift motor. No wiring changes needed.
 

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Clarification on this - apparently it's as simple as using the stock Ranger shift motor on the electric shift 4406 rather than its original F150 shift motor. No wiring changes needed.

I'm really hoping this is good intel because I'm looking into the same swap now. My truck is a 99 Standard cab shortbed on 39's and Super Duty axles so a little beef over the factory ranger case will be a good thing. Plus I can just swap yokes on my axles and keep the fullsize 1/2T U-joint sizes.
 


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