2000 2wd XLT 3.0L Oil pan leak

[parashootist]

I have the trans off of my ranger to change out the clutch since there was a squealing noise. Turned out the pilot bearing had disintegrated. While under the truck I noticed the oil pan gasket was pushed out in the front under the harmonic balancer and what I thought/hoped was a rear main seal leak was the oil pan leaking around the crankshaft in the back. I don't have an engine hoist so I'm not sure of the best course of action. I hadn't noticed any oil leaking to the ground from the truck but since I have the trans off, I'd like to address this issue.

Is it worth trying to loosen the bolts, push the gasket back in at the front and maybe add a bead of silicone gasket maker at each end? I'd like to avoid having to lift the engine.

Truck has 183k. I bought it in the fall for $500 since it was not driveable. Installed a clutch master cylinder in front of the seller's house and drove it home. I have put 1000 miles on it since then until the clutch started acting up due to the pilot bearing.

Separate issues, also noticed some play in the input shaft but inspection of the internals, everything looks brand new so I will likely leave the trans alone. Installing new flywheel, slave, clutch, and pilot bearing. I was able to get the trans out with the Y pipe in place but I have little faith I will be able to reinstall it unless I remove it. I was unable to remove 2 of the bolts on the passenger side that connect to the manifold. Considering cutting the bolts, just not sure of the best way to extract the remainder once cut.

Thanks, sorry there's a lot there, any help is appreciated!

 

[Blmpkn]

IIRC.. A buddy of mine only had to lift the motor just slightly to drop the pan enough to replace the gasket. No engine hoist involved.

 

[parashootist]

IIRC.. A buddy of mine only had to lift the motor just slightly to drop the pan enough to replace the gasket. No engine hoist involved.

I ended up pushing the gasket back in and retightening the bolts. I then thoroughly degreased the surfaces and applied RTV. We'll see if that stops the leak which was slow, no oil as making it to the ground.

I got the flywheel, clutch and slave mounted. Haven't been able to get the transmission to slide all the way on. Looking through the inspection port I can see that the slave cylinder is hitting the fingers but I can't get it to slide on more. Need to investigate.

 

[parashootist]

Got everything back together. I was having trouble getting the trans to mate back with the engine. Turned out the slave cylinder wasn't retracting for some reason. I ended up using two zip ties to compress the spring, slid together easily and then I cut the two zip ties out through the inspection port. If only I had tried this initially I would have saved an hour or two.

Truck shifts perfectly now that it actually has a pilot bearing. I also changed out the shifter bushings so its all nice and tight.

 

[Jabs]

I will replace the oil pan gasket because I think I understood the oil it's going to rear side of the engine, if that happens, that oil it's going to damage the clutch again

 

[parashootist]

I will replace the oil pan gasket because I think I understood the oil it's going to rear side of the engine, if that happens, that oil it's going to damage the clutch again

The clutch was not damaged. I could have put the old clutch back in after replacing the pilot bearing but with 183,000 miles that would have been a poor decision. I am not overly concerned that oil is going to damage the clutch. The oil pan gasket just wasn't a job I felt like tackling as I don't have an engine hoist.