2.9L w/ MegaSquirt to 4.0L w/ Ecumaster Black and a Turbo build

[konrad911]

So I found some time in the evening to disassemble the engine slightly... No good :-(
I mean it could be worse always, but for sure it will not be an easy way through.

So far so good. Studs not seized, so with some force I was able to remove them one by one.

Intake off - not bad for a 30-year-old engine IMHO (for the time being)

Exhaust headers off..

On both sides...

Time to take the heads off. Removed the rocker assembly to access the head bolts.

And a surprise on cylinder 3 pops up...

After spraying WD40 and cleaning with paper towel.

I can turn engine by hand by pulley, which is a good indicator. Not sure though if these STD pistons (I expect them to be STD) will serve further :-(

I will need to disassemble the engine further and measure the cylinders in addition to this rusty surprise as I can feel a step on top of each of the cylinders, which obviously indicates they have worn.


Heads look like below. Intake valves seems to be flat with head surface, exhaust seems to stay out a bit above, but not equally for each valve.
I'm just thinking, as I will do some porting work on these heads anyway, if not to make the shape of the combustion chamber more like sphere.
Obviously this would lower the CR, which in forced induction might be a good thing in the end.
I was not expecting a Grand Canyon that I found there honestly, Ford engineers must have drunk something strong when designing that

And here's panorama on my workshop (I need to build a proper table on wheels, as when doing engine works I cannot park there anything).

Any suggestions for pistons? Brand? Shape? Source for forged ones that don't cost a fortune?

 

[konrad911]

I'm just thinking, reading (https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/how-to-build-a-ford-4-0l-for-power/), thinking...

Can I do 4.00 overbore? I have the early block, which should accept the 4.00 overbore.

If yes, what pistons should I get?

 

[gaz]

Konrad,
I would do as little over bore as necessary. If you are at standard bore now, then + 0.02" (0.50mm) if possible and if if required. You are not trying to bore/stroke to 5.0, you are making a 4.0L turbo; I would want as much block/cylinder strength wall as possible.

In regards to your pistons, see how they look after you clean them up. If you know that you are going to bore it for a fresh cylinders, then for low boost Mahle, Ford, Clevitte are all good Al pistons. I chose Mahle, there are more good choices. I did stay away from Enginetech and the Horde of Companies on eBay/Amazon that appear to be Chinese copies, though, that doesn't mean they will not do the job.

You can purchase forged from a number of Companies, even custom sets; I would decide on the max boost that is going to be used, if 7.5 or less then I would be comfortable with Al cast piston but more than 7.5 lbs of boost I would plan on forged being a necessity.

I am very curious to learn how your valve seats look/are. Mine were horrible and needed to be recut. My machinist commented that my engine must have guzzled oil; the fellow I bought it from did mention that "it burned a little oil", clearly and UNDERSTATEMENT

 

[konrad911]

Well I think all will be clear when fully disassembled and measured.
Pushrods are dead. Clogged and polished, especially on top. I'm sure they are out of specs.
One of the followers has the collar that is around pushrod slightly broken - one of 4 latches is broken off.
I'm thinking if I'd need new rocker shafts - although I've read these often are out of spec and cause issues... What issues?
Really not willing to replace everything in that engine...

 

[gaz]

Konrad,

This OHV 4.0l valve train is NOT ADJUSTABLE, so when the push rods or the rockers wear, the valve train gets sloppy with no is adjustment possible!

The cups in the rockers get hogged or mishaped from the push rods, the push rod ends wear on both ends which both shorten and causes them to loosen. As the pressure on the hydraulic lifter is reduced from component wear, the lifters lose their preload, then they are less unable to efficiently open and close the valves.

 

[konrad911]

Should I consider replacing hydraulic lifters or just wash them in ultrasonic cleaner?
I expect pushrods were made of a soft-ish material that wears out soonest, to save other components (rocker arms, hydraulic lifters).
But I might be so wrong

 

[gaz]

Konrad,

Here is my solution:

• A custom set of adjustable push rods from Smith Brother's, $150.
+1 541-388-8188
2895 SW 13th St, Redmond, OR 97756
USA

• A set of rockers with reinforced cup inserts from Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Washington, $150 (after core exchange).
+1 253-383-4152
2366 Tacoma Ave S, Tacoma, WA 98402
USA

The lifters are your call as they are $40+ each from Ford, if you can get them. I am considering an Engintech set, since the Mahle old stock seems to be drying up. I am rebuilding mine; be careful of those little rubber tapered grommets, even those aren't cheap to replace.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Recently I read that the lifters are double walled and very hard to clean properly. Not sure where I read that.... sorry.

 

[konrad911]

Well I'll certainly try to rebuild my lifters. Here's a nice video how one guy did it.

I want in addition do the ultrasonic wash for them.

On one of my lifters one of those plastic cups fell off - is this a replacement part? How it's called? P/N?

 

[gaz]

Konrad,

I think these may work, they are for SOHC 4.0l, I am still uncertain if they will work for OHV 4.0l. If it isn't damaged, it should slide back on.

 

[konrad911]

Nope, I don't think so. I'll take some close-up photos when later in garage of that elements and post them.
I need to figure out a way to rebuild the rockers either by myself or find smn here that can do it for me.
I have the mill, so I could do the machining on my own, just would need to think from what material I should have inserts done. Best if these are just available and can be press fitted into rockers / heated rockers.
Unfortunately anything I buy in the US ends up like twice the US price for me (shipment to the EU + VAT [+23% on top of part + shipment] + customs duties + package operator duties for opening the package and doing the duty checks...).

 

[gaz]

My bust, those are for injectors.

 

[gaz]

Here is the deal with the hardend Rocker inserts:

Delta Cam of Tacoma Washington bought the entire stock of them years ago. They are the only distributor of the components on our planet. They will only sell them installed on rockers. They are willing to swap cores or we must buy the rocker too.

I live very close to their shop and will help if I can. I am also close to both Smith Brother's Push Rods and Oregon Cam Grinders.

 

[konrad911]

Haha... Do you have a photo of a rocker arm with an insert from them installed in it handy?
Appreciate your offer to help, but common this is not rocket science. I expect press fitting a roller from a bearing that is made for a highly hardened steel would work just fine... Need to think about it for a moment or two

It could just stand out of the rocker arm and be ground to a height of need. Just an idea

 

[konrad911]

So as of the lifters, I'm talking about that part... One of 4 latches broke off.

For the rocker arms I think I just need to buy a set of new ones together with pushrods :-/
Found these on eBay (Northern Auto Parts)

1990 - 2001 Ford 4.0 Rocker Arms Push Rods Ranger Mazda OHV TEK244 MR927 MPR471 | eBay

1990 to 2001 Ford and Mazda 4.0L OHV TOP END Kit. TOP END KIT 4.0 FORD OHV. 12 New Rocker Arms. 12 New Push Rods 5.48" Length.

www.ebay.com

The above seems to be best time/money ratio. Not sure about the quality, but if these survive 100k miles it's more than enough for the whole life of my car.

Mine look like this, I expect excessive wear has a new meaning redefined now