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2.9L V6 Engine enhancements


PetroleumJunkie412

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I looked into it a long time ago. I remember you had to run a vacuum line to their MAP sensor that was mounted on their board, and then you had to have all these auxilary boards for driving the ignition coil and the injectors. Sounds like it has advanced a lot over the years.
Very much so. My MAP is a gm 3 bar in the stock location. No auxiliary boards either. Just a small EEC-IV sized case plugged into my harness. Mine is now a little older compared to the advancements they've made over the last two years or so.

There are photos and some discussion in the forced induction section

 


Ranger101

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Oh, and for the love of the gods, get that A4LD (or whatever its called; autos don't deserve to be named other than 'boat anchor') out from behind it and send it back to hell where it belongs. FM146 and M5ODR1 will bolt right on. The M5 is the superior of the two.
PJ412,

Are the transmissions you referenced automatics? I want to keep my truck as an automatic even if I get rid of the A4LD.

If I can’t find front and rear sway bars on a B2, would buying aftermarket sway bars for B2 to put on the 89 automatic work?

You suggested changing the 89 Ranger intake to a pre 85 Ranger intake. Will any pre-85 intake for Ranger or B2 with a 2.9L do?

What modifications can be made to the air box or the tube that begins behind the grill to the air box? I noticed what appears to be wires/sensors on the tube at at midway union.

Where can I find ‘regular’ JBA headers for the 2.9L automatic? I see them for a 2.9L manual on their website. What do you think of going from a Y to an H exhaust on the 89? Difficulty?

What other vehicles besides the Windstar have the 3G alternator and harness? That upgrade may be one of the first I do. With that done, I could move on to other electric upgrades.

I see that you used MB electric fans. Does the brand matter or will fans from other vehicles work just as well? Any preference with regard to sizes on either side?

Is there an Explorer rear axle that is the same size as the 89 Ranger rear axle? I’ve read where there axles are wider/longer and the rear tires protrude a bit and may require different size wheels. I’m big on symmetry and want to be able to rotate tires at will.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

franklin2

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Those transmissions he listed are manuals.

I am not too hip on the 3g 130 amp alternator conversions if you are using a single v-belt. You can get a squealing belt every morning on first start up, a single v-belt doesn't have enough traction for the full 130 amp output of that alternator. That is why they went to a serpentine belt setup. They did make 95 amp versions which may work better.

Not sure what the intake question is about. If you have a 89, I am assuming you have a 2.9. 1985 and earlier had the 2.8, it will not fit the 2.9 and the 2.8 was carbed.

If your 89 airbox is like my 86, it is a airbox and built underneath is the vacuum reservoir. I have two red vacuum lines running under the box, this is the vacuum reservoir for the EGR valve system, so when you are pulling a hill it can use the vacuum stored in the reservoir.
 

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Ranger101:

Changing from the "Y" to "H" flange, it is pretty easy, there will probably be some resistance with the exhaust fasteners but they can be cut off.

I would only do it for 2 reasons:

-to facilitate the use of "true dual exhaust"
-to make use of an older set if headers that doesn't use the Y flange.

Both my trucks have the H, I always thought Ford changed to the Y to lighten the weight, using the single section of tubing.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Thanks in advance for your input.
Line by line, my responses are in bold.


Are the transmissions you referenced automatics? I want to keep my truck as an automatic even if I get rid of the A4LD.

No, they are not. I have not spent much time around the A4LD, but from what i understand, they are less that 'good.' I do not own, nor drive automatics, so definitely not the right guy to ask ;brownbag;


If I can’t find front and rear sway bars on a B2, would buying aftermarket sway bars for B2 to put on the 89 automatic work?

Possibly. I know of two front sway bars for TTB RBVs, the behind the axle variety, and the before the axle variety. I do not see where the before the axle variety would differ from truck to truck. I may be wrong on this. @85_Ranger4x4

You suggested changing the 89 Ranger intake to a pre 85 Ranger intake. Will any pre-85 intake for Ranger or B2 with a 2.9L do?

So, in order to avoid confusion, there are a few different throttle bodies for the two main flavors of 2.9 intake. The earlier 2.9 RBV upper intakes had a large bore throttle body, and the later had a small bore. I believe 87-back has the larger and 88-92 has the smaller. A larger throttle body on a mostly stock engine will feel more responsive on the throttle.

What modifications can be made to the air box or the tube that begins behind the grill to the air box? I noticed what appears to be wires/sensors on the tube at at midway union.

The rain cover at the front is rumored to be a restriction. When I still had my factory air box, I removed mine. Can't remember if it did anything. Take a look at the tube connecting the air box to the grill, and see if the tube is more restrictive than your throttle body.

Where can I find ‘regular’ JBA headers for the 2.9L automatic? I see them for a 2.9L manual on their website. What do you think of going from a Y to an H exhaust on the 89? Difficulty?

No idea. Mine came from a clearence sale on eBay. Also, exhaust is one of the things that I farm out to a local place. I'll do under hood work on an exhaust system, but not the rest. Too much rust in my eyes for my liking.

What other vehicles besides the Windstar have the 3G alternator and harness? That upgrade may be one of the first I do. With that done, I could move on to other electric upgrades.

I believe most of the 3.8s had the 12-6 o'clock mount tabs. One of the ford techs on here will know more than I. But essentially any 12-6 alternators will work with the Chebby bracket.

I see that you used MB electric fans. Does the brand matter or will fans from other vehicles work just as well? Any preference with regard to sizes on either side?

I actually have three - one eBay cheap-o rigged up inside the factory shroud, and the now-removed MB fans out front. The front ones were removed to fit an intercooler. E-fans are sort of a self-contained mod. Most of the offroad guys will recommend a kill and manual override switch fitted to them as well. From personal experience, the override switch can be a lifesaver when your thermostat fails (happened to me)

Is there an Explorer rear axle that is the same size as the 89 Ranger rear axle? I’ve read where there axles are wider/longer and the rear tires protrude a bit and may require different size wheels. I’m big on symmetry and want to be able to rotate tires at will.

Expo 8.8 is slightly wider, but axles are same bolt pattern for wheels. Just a much beefier axle versus the Ranger 8.8. AFAIK, every Ranger/BII axle is interchangable, just a matter of having the correct u bolts, top plates, and lift blocks.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

franklin2

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Expo 8.8 is slightly wider, but axles are same bolt pattern for wheels. Just a much beefier axle versus the Ranger 8.8. AFAIK, every Ranger/BII axle is interchangable, just a matter of having the correct u bolts, top plates, and lift blocks.
"Danger Will Rogers Danger!". I don't know about the explorer axles, but I just swapped in a 1986 Ranger axle into a 1984 Bronco II. It was not a direct swap. The Bronco II axle was wider. The overall narrower width of the ranger axle doesn't make much difference, but the spring pads are where it doesn't work, I had to cut the ranger pads off and weld on new pads. I got the pads from tractor supply, they were made for a trailer and worked perfectly. Along with this you have to set the pinion angle. The pads/pinion angle on the Bronco II rearend points the nose up about 9-10 degrees, the ranger pads are welded so the nose is up about 3-4 degrees. Before I welded the new pads in place I rigged the ranger rearend in there and had a vibration at certain speeds till I fixed the pinion angle.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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If I can’t find front and rear sway bars on a B2, would buying aftermarket sway bars for B2 to put on the 89 automatic work?

Possibly. I know of two front sway bars for TTB RBVs, the behind the axle variety, and the before the axle variety. I do not see where the before the axle variety would differ from truck to truck. I may be wrong on this. @85_Ranger4x4
I am kind just starting to delve into this thing, I have found at least three different kinds of front sway bars on TTB (4wd) trucks.

TTB standard cab Ranger (D28)

Not a real good way to get a pic of it, bar is behind the axle and actually runs in the radius arm brackets and goes ahead and is clamped in the radius arm with the shock mount.

The two bolts behind the front shock are actually a U bolt that clamps the sway bar. You can kinda see a shadow of a sway bar making the turn at the back of the radius arm to go into the radius arm bracket...



Super Cab Ranger (86-??) and Bronco II (84-88)

They had the sway bar in the front of the axle. It kinda looks like they had a width issue so they have stamped plates to move the sway bar mounts inboard. May have also had a slight structure issue, the DS frame rail is a little more boxed thanks to the steering box, the PS bracket has an extra brace running to the top of the frame. First gen BII pictured (crappy picture of the brace, I apologize):





In the interest of having a disconnectable front sway bar for offroading I am converting my truck to this style. I pulled my front sway bar off of an earlierish second gen and the reinforcement bracket seems a little short. I do yet know if they changed something between the front of a std cab Ranger frame (what I have) and a scab/BII OR if it is a first gen to second gen change.



And then when they added a crossmember (later second gen Ranger, first gen Explorer, second gen BII??) they ditched the plates and bracketry and just mounted the front mounts directly to the frame. Note the front bolt goes thru the added crossmember. First gen Explorer pictured.



I know nothing about aftermarket options or rear sway bars...

"Danger Will Rogers Danger!". I don't know about the explorer axles, but I just swapped in a 1986 Ranger axle into a 1984 Bronco II. It was not a direct swap. The Bronco II axle was wider. The overall narrower width of the ranger axle doesn't make much difference, but the spring pads are where it doesn't work, I had to cut the ranger pads off and weld on new pads. I got the pads from tractor supply, they were made for a trailer and worked perfectly. Along with this you have to set the pinion angle. The pads/pinion angle on the Bronco II rearend points the nose up about 9-10 degrees, the ranger pads are welded so the nose is up about 3-4 degrees. Before I welded the new pads in place I rigged the ranger rearend in there and had a vibration at certain speeds till I fixed the pinion angle.
Yup BII's are weird for axle swaps...
 

Ranger101

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P
Line by line, my responses are in bold.


Are the transmissions you referenced automatics? I want to keep my truck as an automatic even if I get rid of the A4LD.

No, they are not. I have not spent much time around the A4LD, but from what i understand, they are less that 'good.' I do not own, nor drive automatics, so definitely not the right guy to ask ;brownbag;


If I can’t find front and rear sway bars on a B2, would buying aftermarket sway bars for B2 to put on the 89 automatic work?

Possibly. I know of two front sway bars for TTB RBVs, the behind the axle variety, and the before the axle variety. I do not see where the before the axle variety would differ from truck to truck. I may be wrong on this. @85_Ranger4x4

You suggested changing the 89 Ranger intake to a pre 85 Ranger intake. Will any pre-85 intake for Ranger or B2 with a 2.9L do?

So, in order to avoid confusion, there are a few different throttle bodies for the two main flavors of 2.9 intake. The earlier 2.9 RBV upper intakes had a large bore throttle body, and the later had a small bore. I believe 87-back has the larger and 88-92 has the smaller. A larger throttle body on a mostly stock engine will feel more responsive on the throttle.

What modifications can be made to the air box or the tube that begins behind the grill to the air box? I noticed what appears to be wires/sensors on the tube at at midway union.

The rain cover at the front is rumored to be a restriction. When I still had my factory air box, I removed mine. Can't remember if it did anything. Take a look at the tube connecting the air box to the grill, and see if the tube is more restrictive than your throttle body.

Where can I find ‘regular’ JBA headers for the 2.9L automatic? I see them for a 2.9L manual on their website. What do you think of going from a Y to an H exhaust on the 89? Difficulty?

No idea. Mine came from a clearence sale on eBay. Also, exhaust is one of the things that I farm out to a local place. I'll do under hood work on an exhaust system, but not the rest. Too much rust in my eyes for my liking.

What other vehicles besides the Windstar have the 3G alternator and harness? That upgrade may be one of the first I do. With that done, I could move on to other electric upgrades.

I believe most of the 3.8s had the 12-6 o'clock mount tabs. One of the ford techs on here will know more than I. But essentially any 12-6 alternators will work with the Chebby bracket.

I see that you used MB electric fans. Does the brand matter or will fans from other vehicles work just as well? Any preference with regard to sizes on either side?

I actually have three - one eBay cheap-o rigged up inside the factory shroud, and the now-removed MB fans out front. The front ones were removed to fit an intercooler. E-fans are sort of a self-contained mod. Most of the offroad guys will recommend a kill and manual override switch fitted to them as well. From personal experience, the override switch can be a lifesaver when your thermostat fails (happened to me)

Is there an Explorer rear axle that is the same size as the 89 Ranger rear axle? I’ve read where there axles are wider/longer and the rear tires protrude a bit and may require different size wheels. I’m big on symmetry and want to be able to rotate tires at will.

Expo 8.8 is slightly wider, but axles are same bolt pattern for wheels. Just a much beefier axle versus the Ranger 8.8. AFAIK, every Ranger/BII axle is interchangable, just a matter of having the correct u bolts, top plates, and lift blocks.

Thanks in advance for your input.
PJ412

Will the 86-87 58mm throttle body swap out on my 89 54mm without any modifications?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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bobbywalter

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"Danger Will Rogers Danger!". I don't know about the explorer axles, but I just swapped in a 1986 Ranger axle into a 1984 Bronco II. It was not a direct swap. The Bronco II axle was wider. The overall narrower width of the ranger axle doesn't make much difference, but the spring pads are where it doesn't work, I had to cut the ranger pads off and weld on new pads. I got the pads from tractor supply, they were made for a trailer and worked perfectly. Along with this you have to set the pinion angle. The pads/pinion angle on the Bronco II rearend points the nose up about 9-10 degrees, the ranger pads are welded so the nose is up about 3-4 degrees. Before I welded the new pads in place I rigged the ranger rearend in there and had a vibration at certain speeds till I fixed the pinion angle.


hmm.

these facts are true in most of the technical sense. but i would say... the perspectives need to be broadened.

all of the rbv axles are direct swaps if need be. like all things...there are compromises to be made but you will go down the road if you are in a bind.

in my younger days i regularly destroyed axles..and transmissions...way way way too many transmissions.....early on the 7.5 was the most common. and also the biggest pos i have ever had the pleasure of exploding.





the bronco 2 has a more centered pumpkin. the pickups are offset to the passenger side due to gas tank location. with an ext cab or certain setups, the skid plate for the gas tank can be an issue with the rear drive shaft and may have to be left off....

you use off the shelf shims and bolt it in....you may also have to invert the drive shaft and switch out the slip yoke to match the flange on the axle side. there are 2 bolt patterns....technically 4.


the explorer axle....much wider...bolts right into a ranger as well if your in a bind. you need some 1/2 in strap and a set of perches and two drivers side spring plates. the slip yoke issue can apply here as well. there is a long version you can get off of 150's and 250's with 1330 style yokes.


they (rbv) all work....with factory parts and a grinder with a cut off wheel....trip or three to the hardware store...and brakeline headaches.

you basically make a home made flip kit cutting and fitting the strap to allow for the pinion angle you need with the foating spring perches. and using bolts to clamp the ranger and explorer spring plates.
 

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you use off the shelf shims and bolt it in....you may also have to invert the drive shaft and switch out the slip yoke to match the flange on the axle side. there are 2 bolt patterns....technically 4.
I disagree. If you call taking a come-along and pulling the leaf springs together to make the pads line up a "bolt-in" then ok. I did it that way, and drove it that way. It worked, except I had the pinion angle vibration. There was no way I was going to be able to shim the pinion up, there was too much side pressure on the leaf springs to get it all together with shims too.

I am a specialist at rigging things, but sometimes I can't even get it to work.
 

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No. You don't need a come along. You bolt the shims to the springs and it's even easier.....especially if your using 150 springs and offsets.
 

bobbywalter

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I disagree. If you call taking a come-along and pulling the leaf springs together to make the pads line up a "bolt-in" then ok. I did it that way, and drove it that way. It worked, except I had the pinion angle vibration. There was no way I was going to be able to shim the pinion up, there was too much side pressure on the leaf springs to get it all together with shims too.

I am a specialist at rigging things, but sometimes I can't even get it to work.
Quoted for clarity.
 

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I saw a few people mention to the original thread starter he needs to check some things with his engine before jumping on the power adder bandwagon. I tend to agree with this mode of thought ... this engine always ran very well ... when it's raining, you cannot take off at a stoplight without spinning the tires. And I never had any hill where I could not maintain my speed in overdrive. Most hills I could gain speed, and if I wanted to take off, all I have to do is drop it in 4th or 3rd, and it was on. Petroleumjunkie is correct, this engine loves to rev, and it's very fun to drive. You can be doing 70 in 3rd gear and it's still pulling it's guts out. My engine was completely stock. I had the timing set about 12 BTDC, and the EGR was non-functional. Exhaust was completely stock with the cat. I did have a electric fan on it. .... That is why I and maybe others are questioning why you are not getting the power out of yours .... Something just doesn't sound right, I wonder if your timing is in limp home mode. I would take a timing light and hook it up and check it to make sure it's moving when you rev the engine. If it's not, something is wrong somewhere.
Would like to echo franklin2's comments - my '90 2.9 is definitely stock, and has an automatic, but pulls like a train and I've had no issues whatsoever maintaining speeds of say 75-80 MPH on hills. Key improvement I made was to replace the injectors with rebuilts, for $60, which has made a big difference, but even before it was quite strong. It has at least 130,000 miles on it and not been rebuilt, best I can tell. So I would also check all the basics and state of tune, as has been suggested, before jumping into (costly) modifications. Have you pulled any codes yet? Best would be if you could drive another one that is 'running well' (although that is the challenge right there, not many of us will have had the experience of driving enough of these to know how they are supposed to drive when in good tune). One thing we could do, if not done already, is post some 0-60 times? I bet mine would come out ok, given how heavy it is, the autobox etc. But it really pulls and is happy to rev high.
 

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No. You don't need a come along. You bolt the shims to the springs and it's even easier.....especially if your using 150 springs and offsets.
What are offsets? If they are what I am thinking they are, where do you buy them?
 

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