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2.9L Rebuild - performance improvement advice


franklin2

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Can I delete the Vacuum reservoir under the air box? The red EGR line goes to it before the EGR solenoid, and I am deleting the EGR. It would make more room under the hood without the Res so I am wondering if it does much for vacuum components other than the EGR. Please advise
On my truck it was just for the emissions, I didn't have cruise. I am used to seeing them though on the larger f series trucks. Those trucks use vacuum to control some of the HVAC, so they need that reservoir to keep those controls stable when you pull a hill. But the rangers HVAC is all cables, so it doesn't really need the reservoir.
 


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Paulos

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Can I delete the Vacuum reservoir under the air box? The red EGR line goes to it before the EGR solenoid, and I am deleting the EGR. It would make more room under the hood without the Res so I am wondering if it does much for vacuum components other than the EGR. Please advise
The vacuum reservoir is for the EGR system ONLY. When I went with an '89 ECM I completely disconnected the reservoir, EGR solenoid, and EVP (EGR Valve Position sensor/EGR Pressure Transducer).
 

MarkusMcBride

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Update:

Mostly back together! engine and tans are back in, just have upper intake and ram air to go, and transfer case, drive shafts and shifters.

ERG is gone, Knock sensor gone, 1 cat remaining and is punched out hollow (was plugged), EGR wart in exhaust ports die grinded smooth, gasket matched intake from heads to upper plenum, honda civic fan wired up to 180 deg thermostat (bolted on to old shroud mounts), aftermarket gauges hooked up, pcv gone, breathers to atmosphere in place. New rings, bearings, every damn sensor has been replaced, temperature sensors air and coolant, IAC, MAP, TPS.. Oh and new bearings and 5th gear and synchro hub 5th/rev for Transmission. Start up later today.

Pics:
EGR wart pic before & after
Engine back in (rad support fabbed back together, bolted to be removable)
10+hp paint job
Punched out cat

IMG_1071.jpg
IMG_1083.jpg

60542933747__6CDC0323-EC6E-463D-B8DE-7F2340F376E0.jpg
60541320482__061E4DEE-248D-4A50-A299-A45BD9F97C32.jpg
IMG_1091.jpg
 

MarkusMcBride

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Alright, I am having some trouble. Timing is set to 11deg with spout removed. running poorly. Spout back in, it advances to like 15deg and under load it is backfiring and choking. CODES were 22 (MAP), 63 (TPS), and 95 (fuel pump/fuel pump monitor) KOEO. same codes in hard faults and memory.

The TPS is new and so is the MAP but I'm going to have to test them both. (not sure I can test the MAP other than seeing if a replacement solves it) and the code 95 for fuel pump, I changed to an 88 ECU so I think thats normal?? Does anyone have experience swapping to a newer ECU from a 1987? There is a FPM (fuel pump monitor) pin out in the 88 ECU (pin # 8 I believe) thats not in the 87 so I'm thinking its going to pull that code all day and I'm not sure if I need to worry about it.. If anyone has experience swapping to newer ECU Please advise.

I tried using the original ECU but same same. its like the MAP is off the walls, but I just changed it! has 5v Vref, have to check sig rtn. losing patience!
 

MarkusMcBride

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Got a couple maps from picknpull and a tps, gonna try them out see if it makes a change
 

rusty ol ranger

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Alright, I am having some trouble. Timing is set to 11deg with spout removed. running poorly. Spout back in, it advances to like 15deg and under load it is backfiring and choking. CODES were 22 (MAP), 63 (TPS), and 95 (fuel pump/fuel pump monitor) KOEO. same codes in hard faults and memory.

The TPS is new and so is the MAP but I'm going to have to test them both. (not sure I can test the MAP other than seeing if a replacement solves it) and the code 95 for fuel pump, I changed to an 88 ECU so I think thats normal?? Does anyone have experience swapping to a newer ECU from a 1987? There is a FPM (fuel pump monitor) pin out in the 88 ECU (pin # 8 I believe) thats not in the 87 so I'm thinking its going to pull that code all day and I'm not sure if I need to worry about it.. If anyone has experience swapping to newer ECU Please advise.

I tried using the original ECU but same same. its like the MAP is off the walls, but I just changed it! has 5v Vref, have to check sig rtn. losing patience!
I put an 88 ECM in my 87 and it was plug and play besides the fuel pump code.
 

MarkusMcBride

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I put an 88 ECM in my 87 and it was plug and play besides the fuel pump code.
Okay thank you, so that confirms the fuel pump code 95 is normal when ecu swap.
Left key on so waiting for battery to charge to test new (used) MAP
Will post update. Any ideas are welcome.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Okay thank you, so that confirms the fuel pump code 95 is normal when ecu swap.
Left key on so waiting for battery to charge to test new (used) MAP
Will post update. Any ideas are welcome.
Check the MAP line for leaks. Mine had a tiny hole in it and it did all sorts of goofy shit.
 

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Okay thank you, so that confirms the fuel pump code 95 is normal when ecu swap.
Left key on so waiting for battery to charge to test new (used) MAP
Will post update. Any ideas are welcome.
Running a wire from pin 8 of the ECM to the line/input side of the inertia switch will remedy the code 95 issue.
 

MarkusMcBride

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Running a wire from pin 8 of the ECM to the line/input side of the inertia switch will remedy the code 95 issue.
Maybe that’s why I had to put a jumper wire in inertia? Or that’s just another issue lol..

Update: unplug alternator it ran better. Alternator wasn’t charging system at low rpm. Just changed alt, no change. Checking wires
 

rusty ol ranger

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Maybe that’s why I had to put a jumper wire in inertia? Or that’s just another issue lol..

Update: unplug alternator it ran better. Alternator wasn’t charging system at low rpm. Just changed alt, no change. Checking wires
Thats above my paygrade man...

@RonD @adsm08
 

adsm08

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Maybe that’s why I had to put a jumper wire in inertia? Or that’s just another issue lol..

Update: unplug alternator it ran better. Alternator wasn’t charging system at low rpm. Just changed alt, no change. Checking wires
If alternator is not charging start by checking key on power at the green/red wire on the regulator plug.
 

Paulos

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Maybe that’s why I had to put a jumper wire in inertia? Or that’s just another issue lol..

Update: unplug alternator it ran better. Alternator wasn’t charging system at low rpm. Just changed alt, no change. Checking wires
'88 and later models have the sensing wire from the load side of the fuel pump relay to pin 8 of the ECM (as pictured). I ended up bypassing the inertia switch on my '87 due to it acting up when it was freezing cold in the morning. After a couple hours of trying to figure out why my truck wouldn't start in the morning, it warmed up outside, and then it would start. I haven't had a problem with it since I by-passed it. And connecting pin 8 at that point is essentially no different than connecting it at the fuel pump relay.

'89 fuel pump schematic - trimmed.jpg
 

RonD

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Jumper at inertia switch doesn't do anything except it prevents fuel pump shut off in a roll over or accident
Inertia switch has no electrical function as a sensor of any kind

Pin 8 on the PCM is just a monitor to see if fuel pump relay was activated by Pin 22
If there is a problem there PCM will set one of 2 codes, Fuel Secondary circuit LOW(no 12v), Or HIGH(12v when there should be no 12v)
Fuel Primary Circuit is Pin 22 seeing 12v with key on
 

MarkusMcBride

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Has anyone had trouble with their instrument panel voltage regulator?? Mine seems to have shit the bed as my gas gauge reads full no matter (has new sending unit). With alternator wired up separately, isolating it from the wiring going to cluster, it runs great . However, after test drive, under load it stumbles for a second like it dies outright for a split second (had similar issue before but it was more severe before and more often).

This voltage regulator is hooked in to my ignition and they are know to go bad. It’s also hooked to my gas gauge. And the alternator. So if it’s intermittently shorting, it could be what’s the matter with it all.
Update: put junk yard volt reg in cluster and it was mildly better but when we bench tested that one, it too was bouncing from zero to 7 volts. On our way to buy a steady volt step down 12v to 6v from electronics place and hoping that’ll sort it and bring gas gauge back and allow for alternator to be hooked up business as usual.

Anyone had issues with these f***ing things before let me know
 


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