2.9L Camshaft Replacement - Engine Pulling Required?

[Demersus]

Good morning everyone,

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but before I purchase an engine stand I want to confirm. Is it necessary to pull the motor out of a 2.9L Ranger to replace the camshaft? I see that there is a center support in front of the radiator, so I'm fairly sure a full motor pull is required. But, perhaps just angling it will work?

Thanks,

Demersus

 

[DirtBronco]

I would image you'd have to take the entire front clip off the car in order to have enough room.

 

[Demersus]

Well, there is only so much that can be removed since it's spot welded. But I'm wondering if I could, for example, loosen the motor mounts and roll it a bit to one side or the other to clear that center support in front of the radiator. Or, if I could loosen the motor mounts and remove the transmission cross member and drive line and angle it a bit. Either, if feasible, would be preferable to a full pull. But of course, I'm hoping for someone who has first-hand experience and not just guessing like I am.

 

[ericbphoto]

+

 

[gaz]

Demersus,

The cam can be removed without yanking the engine, however the oil pan needs to be lowered to get the front cover off.

 

[Demersus]

Thanks gaz, I appreciate the info. I already ordered all of the gaskets from Rockauto.com yesterday. I took advantage of some closeouts, got a full top end set, plus timing/water pump and oil pan (all Fel-Pro), plus a new rear seal and fuel pump just because, with shipping just $77 for all that.

 

[adsm08]

Now, don't quote me on this, because I have never done it myself, or even seen it done in person, however, a guy I used to work with would tell me stories about his buddy who could replace the cam bearings in a 2.9 with the engine still in the truck.

I know he had to take the radiator and condenser (if it had AC) out. I do not know much more than that.

 

[Demersus]

Yeah, I think at worst I may need to angle the motor a bit. Once all the stuff is off the front and radiator/condenser are removed there is quite a bit of distance there. So it would just need a slight angle one way or the other other to clear the center support. And that support sorta looks like it's designed for some clearance also.

 

[gaz]

Demersus,

It doesn't seem like it but pulling the engine is easier. Nice access to to oil pump and all it's friends

 

[Demersus]

Actually, I should not need to access the oil pump since it was replaced less than 10K miles ago. I still need to do an actual gauge pressure check, but I'm fairly sure it's fine. And the timing/water pump gasket set I purchased (Fel-Pro TCS45791 ) has just the front section of the oil pan gasket. So I don't think the pan needs to be lowered. Granted, I generally don't like stuff like that, but if it allows me to put in a new cam and bearing without a full motor pull, I will opt for it this time. I looked over the original invoice for the rebuild, and I don't see a line item for cam bearings, so I think the guy kept the originals in there. So I'm about 99% sure this is the main issue with my valve train issues.
PetroleumJunkie412 what's your opinion?

 

[dirtymike]

why would you replace the camshaft without replacing and line boring the camshaft bearings? Dirty

 

[Demersus]

Well, I am disappointed that the cam bearing weren't replaced during the initial overhaul. But I didn't know as much about the 2.9L then, and generally assumed that they had been replaced. I would personally would not rebuild a motor without replacing the cam bearings, but I've come to understand that it's pretty common for it to not be done. I've even heard that some "reputable" crate engine suppliers don't necessarily do it. Otherwise, in all of the various forums posts that I've read and participated in over the past 10 years, you're the first one to mention line boring.

 

[dirtymike]

its easier to pull the motor than to do all that extra work. never replaced a cam without replacing the bearings. Most don't because they have to be pressed in or drove in carefully. line boring assures all bearing are lined up. not much to it. lots of assembly lube. dirty