2.9 odd no crank issue

[Zapper]

So i just replaced my starter solenoid due to it failing and now it is just rapidly clicking, i have cleaned the terminals, made sure the cables were good and they are and im unsure what is going on, so if anyone may k ow what the problem is please let me know

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So i just replaced my starter solenoid due to it failing and now it is just rapidly clicking, i have cleaned the terminals, made sure the cables were good and they are and im unsure what is going on, so if anyone may k ow what the problem is please let me know

Starter locked up?

 

[Zapper]

Starter locked up?

Doesn't seem to be locked up, ive tapped it with a hammer and that did nothing

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Doesn't seem to be locked up, ive tapped it with a hammer and that did nothing

Ive had them tie up so bad a hammer dont help.

Pull it off and bench test it or try jumping the 2 big posts on the solenoid with a pair of channel locks. See if it cranks

 

[RonD]

Its the starter relay, not starter solenoid
Sorry pet peeve, but we all know what you mean

Anyway, the relays metal base is either not grounded to inner fender very well, or inner fender ground is loose
Negative battery cable maybe

The starter relay will do the "click, click, click" when voltage is low, either battery itself is under 12volts or battery's connection to vehicle is under 12volts, i.e. bad cables including loose ground cables

There is NO 12volts unless there is also 0 volts(good ground connection to battery negative)
And both 12v and 0v have to pass the same AMPS
Starter motor needs 60 amps
If 12v cable can pass 60amps but 0v cable can only pass 10amps then 10amps is MAXIMUM the system can provide

And can be starter motor itself as mentioned above
If its broken and drawing TOO MANY AMPS then you will get the "click, click, click" because starter relay voltage is dropping from too many amps being drawn from battery

 

[Zapper]

Its the starter relay, not starter solenoid
Sorry pet peeve, but we all know what you mean

Anyway, the relays metal base is either not grounded to inner fender very well, or inner fender ground is loose
Negative battery cable maybe

The starter relay will do the "click, click, click" when voltage is low, either battery itself is under 12volts or battery's connection to vehicle is under 12volts, i.e. bad cables including loose ground cables

There is NO 12volts unless there is also 0 volts(good ground connection to battery negative)
And both 12v and 0v have to pass the same AMPS
Starter motor needs 60 amps
If 12v cable can pass 60amps but 0v cable can only pass 10amps then 10amps is MAXIMUM the system can provide

And can be starter motor itself as mentioned above
If its broken and drawing TOO MANY AMPS then you will get the "click, click, click" because starter relay voltage is dropping from too many amps being drawn from battery

Well the problem was apparently the battery not having enough volts, despite it having 12.5 volts, so i hooked jumper cables to another truck and let it charge for like 20 minutes and it started... not sure why it didn't turn over even though it had enough power...

 

[RonD]

You need to test "power"(AMPs) not just voltage, while linked they are not the same thing

i.e. two 9volt(small) batteries in series is 18volts, so more than enough to start the engine right?
Obviously not, lol
Thats because its not enough AMPs

A car battery at 12.5volt should have enough AMPs, so either the terminals couldn't pass enough AMPs or the voltage reading was off for some reason

Most car batteries have minimum of 500CCA, cold cranking amps
And voltage would be 12.8 to 13.0volts, when new, it loses AMPs/Volts over time
When battery reads 12.2volts its down to 50% capacity so 250CCA and time to replace battery

So the 12.5v reading should have been more than enough AMPs, so I would still suspect connection issue