2.9 Not starting

[aintskeered]

Hey yall,
I replaced the heads on a 88 2.9 and the engine is making a loud ticking when i try and start it.

I’m not sure if the spark plugs are good, they came in the heads.

Anything would help though.

 

[gaz]

Are you saying that when you try to start the engine it makes an electronic clicking sound but doesn't crank or that the engine is cranking while making a metallic tapping noise and will not start?

 

[aintskeered]

electronic clicking sorry.

 

[aintskeered]

Replaced the battery and it’ll crank now. Still not starting, even if i spray starting fluid in the throttle body.
I’ll do spark plugs tonight but anything else I should look at?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Replaced the battery and it’ll crank now. Still not starting, even if i spray starting fluid in the throttle body.
I’ll do spark plugs tonight but anything else I should look at?

If its not fireing on starting fluid then the most likely suspect is the ignition module (located on distributor, little grey rectangle with wires running to it) or ignition coil/coil wire.

No start on starting fluid indicates an ignition problem. The chances of enough spark plugs failing to keep it from running are slim to none.

 

[aintskeered]

Just replaced the ignition module and coil and still nothing. Any other ideas?

 

[gaz]

aintskeered,

• Since you just replaced the heads, recheck all the engine bay ground terminal, there are approximately 8.

• This has happened to me. I recommend performing a very thorough inspection of the coil wire and it's terminals. I have had them look "normal" at a glance but the terminal had slipped off the wire core and was not transmitting any energy. Also the terminal may not be all the way onto the coil or distributor posts, I've done that too.

• I have also had the wires come loose in the coil harness; so also worth a careful thorough visual inspection.

• If those terminals and harness parts check correct, then there is balast resistor on side of the coil. If it dies, the engine WILL NOT START. Last one I bought, 16 months ago was from Schucks/Kragen/Orieley's for $4; it was not for this engine but for an older Ford, looked identicle, so I tried for $4, started immediately).

 

[aintskeered]

I can try that in the morning. Am i able to hoop a multimeter up to see if there’s any power to it?Would that work?

 

[gaz]

Like I suggested, sometimes I really need to remove the wire or terminal and perform a thorough visual inspection. Also then able to tug on the parts, check for cracks...

Regarding the balast resistor, BEFORE YOU PURCHASE a replacement, clean the ground wire terminal and the area that the resistor wire is grounded to. If everything that is free to look at checks good, remove it and replace with a new one for $4.

 

[aintskeered]

Just got info from the previous owner, it was never timed right and kept backfiring. as well as the fuel pump was hardwired to the battery. I’ll check everything out and if nothing works won’t be sure if i keep it or swap to a 4.0.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Just got info from the previous owner, it was never timed right and kept backfiring. as well as the fuel pump was hardwired to the battery. I’ll check everything out and if nothing works won’t be sure if i keep it or swap to a 4.0.

If an electrical issue is keeping the 2.9 from starting chances are itll keep a 4.0 from starting to.

If its not starting on ether its not a fuel problem (probably).

Just for shits n giggles try pulling the SPOUT connector and see if it atleast putters. If its backfireing its out of time. Also pull a plug and visually check for spark, it maybe sparking just sparking at the wrong time.