2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[MadMax_636]

I’m pretty sure you want to hook up one side of the tach to ground and the other side to the ground of the coil.

Ok, So the red (I assume 12v hot) isn't needed? The white wire is for the build which Ill figure out once I get it all properly wired up but its got a green, red, white, black wire.

 

[franklin2]

Red is the power wire, ignition on 12v.

White is for the dial light inside the tach. That will go to a dash light wire, usually lightblue with red stripe.

Black is ground.

Green goes to the negative of the coil.

I know you want a tach for the truck just to have one. Not sure what it's going to do for you in setting the timing. The truck needs to be warmed up and idling normally with the vacuum advance unplugged. Set it to 10 BTDC and that's it.

Been running my BII on the interstate. Been running really good, it flies along at 75 mph with ease.

 

[AndyB.]

Is this an interior mounted tach, and not a shop tach? Maybe it has some power connection that tie into the interior lights?

If all else fails, read the instructions?

 

[MadMax_636]

Red is the power wire, ignition on 12v.

White is for the dial light inside the tach. That will go to a dash light wire, usually lightblue with red stripe.

Black is ground.

Green goes to the negative of the coil.

I know you want a tach for the truck just to have one. Not sure what it's going to do for you in setting the timing. The truck needs to be warmed up and idling normally with the vacuum advance unplugged. Set it to 10 BTDC and that's it.

Been running my BII on the interstate. Been running really good, it flies along at 75 mph with ease.

I mainly want a tach to be able to have a better setting for idle speed and just knowing what my RPM is at.

 

[MadMax_636]

Is this an interior mounted tach, and not a shop tach? Maybe it has some power connection that tie into the interior lights?

If all else fails, read the instructions?

Yeah, its an interior mounted one. The instructions say to hook the red wire to a 12v on when key is on. I did that by splicing into the ignition on wire and the voltage dropped half to the module causing it not to be able to spark and fire off. I found a fuse that is 12v on when the key is on (Its a fuse that was left empty and on the Tech Library it its its left blank/not used but idk where to get a fuse that size with a tap on it.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: The starter works perfectly with the 10 tooth drive gear. It sounds like a brand new truck when cranking.

Now, Ive got it running pretty well but Ive learned my harmonic balancer might not be true. Because when I aim the timing gun at the wheel it shows as if its WAY too advanced and I cant even see the marks I made on the wheel. The 0 TDC and 10 BTDC. So I roughly set the timing with my vacuum gauge. Buy getting the max vacuum and then dropping it down to around 19-20 inches of vacuum.

No, If yall know a better way to doing this knowing about the harmonic balancer thing. Im just wondering about the vacuum advance and Ive heard some are adjustable but idk about mine. Dont wanna test drive it just yet since I need to fix the driver side valve cover since its leaks a bit and runs onto the exhaust and im worried it might smoke me out even with the windows down.

 

[franklin2]

When you are using the timing light, you have the vacuum hose to the distributor off and plugged correct?

 

[MadMax_636]

When you are using the timing light, you have the vacuum hose to the distributor off and plugged correct?

removed. Ive got all of the vacuum ports plugged beside the main one for the gauge and brake booster.

 

[franklin2]

The balancer can't be too far off if you used it to time the distributor. If you got it running good, and it starts ok, I would move on to the next issue and let this go for a little while and come back to it later.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I went to start the truck today and It started but it didn't want to idle. It felt like the timing was off so I let it die. Then I cranked it again after fiddling with the timing and gave it some fuel it was super hard to crank. Like it would spin, stop, spin stop. As if something was getting in its way or something. IDK. I fiddled with the timing by moving it slightly back and forth didn't help.

It acted like this when it started and when it didn't. Without fuel, it cranked freely and when I add fuel it acts the way I described. I checked the oil and it was SUPER dirty. I did have to run seafoam through it when I was putting the duraspark dizzy in since it was nasty and I wanted to use something that wasn't harmful to flush it out. It was pretty damn near black. Lots of what looks like grit (Nothing shiny) but just black nasty crud. Heres some photos.

EDIT 1: I went back and looked at some comments by @franklin2 when this happened before and he said I could be timing related. I just don't understand how that could be what the issue is now because I had gotten it to run but died. The timing is on the retarded side. Plus, I had it running Friday. That was the day I installed the rebuild (New Drive gear installed. By Me) and it cranked like butter. That was also the day I was able to get her running good. When I did manage to get her to start today it didn't want to idle so I figured it was to retarded but the comment By @franklin2 said it could be caused by to advanced. Which is why idk why its doing this. It started but died and then did this.

EDIT 2: I unplugged the coil and cranked it. Fucker cranked like a new car. No issues. So idk if its spark/timing, power to the battery, or something else. Im calling into work tomorrow to work on it and I'm also gonna try and figure it out. Also, I might try and drop the oil and change that nasty ass crap. I need to replace the oil filter adapter gaskets before I change the oil. Since I'm not gonna waste brand new oil.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE!!! Best update of them all. The update to rule them all!

I pulled the dizzy out. Put the motor back on TDC 0 on the balancer. Popped dizzy in pointing it right at the Cylinder 1 (I marked it on the housing) and bolted it down, plugged in the wires + coil, plugged the harness back in, and gave her a bit of gas and turned the key.

BOOOOOOMMMMM!!!!!!! She ran! She purred like a kitten!! Dropped her off of high idle/choke. Set the to 10 degrees and got a nice 20 inches of vacuum and let her idle while I danced around in my drive way like a mad man on some sort of drugs. Well the drugs of success and getting it all working! Hell of a drug BTW!

Thank you! Everyone here! @RobbieD, @franklin2, @AndyB., @sgtsandman, @alwaysFlOoReD If any of yall are in my area! Im gonna buy yall a beer! I might do it anyway! DM me your Paypal and Ill send you the money for it! I mean it! 100% Yall are all amazing! I would have probably given into my depression, anger, frustration, and all of the BS emotions I was feeling during this project. Yall helped me get through it! Yall motivated and guided me through all of the shit! Ive also got more scars on my hands and arms from doing this and Im thankful yall helped me get them! Since I can say I did that fucking shit! With yalls motivation and help!

 

[RobbieD]

CONGRATULATIONS! I'm very glad to hear this. You damn sure earned it, and I salute you for sticking with it. Let us know how it drives.

 

[sgtsandman]

Glad to hear it! You never know, someone in the future might need similar help. Just pay it forward and do the same. That is part of the reason this forum is here.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I set the timing to 10 BTDC and she runs great! I did have to advance it a bit to get a better vacuum unless I'm missing something there. I popped an open-air cleaner on the carb and Ive upped the jets to around 56 but I will be getting bigger ones if need be as well as a new power valve.

Do I need to raise the idle RPM when retarding the timing is that why Im getting a lower vacuum reading at 10-12 degrees BTDC?

I changed the oil with the mobil1 15w50 fully synthetic and shes super quiet (despite having the typical lifter tick) and runs really good.
I will hopefully get a video recorded of me leaving my driveway and maybe a video driving down my street. Just to show how it runs.

I got a 3 gauge set from harbor fart. oil pressure, coolant temp, and volt. The volt will be replaced with a vacuum gauge. Im still wanting to wire up the tach so I can get better stats on my engine speed and set high idle and base idle speeds to the factory to close. Plus, I like knowing what my motor is doing than hearing what I MIGHT be doing.

Again, Thanks yall!

 

[franklin2]

You will have to drive it to experiment with the timing. The more advanced the timing is, the more efficient and responsive the engine will be.....to a point. Then you can over do it. When you over do it, you have rattling and pinging. So you have to turn it back till that stops. And you also may have problems with cranking over on a hot day after you turn it off for about 5 minutes and try to restart. So then you have to turn it back some more till it cranks easy enough to start hot.

That's part of the reason they went to computer control on the timing. The computer control can continually advance the timing till it hears pinging from the knock sensor, and then set it back. It then advances the timing till it hears pinging again, and retards it again. It does this continually. This makes the engine self adjust for fuel quality, ambient conditions, etc.

You are now old school. So you have to experiment and find a happy place that suits the fuel you buy and your particular engine setup.