2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[franklin2]

Older photo but a photo none the less.

You can see how the plate is worn.
Whenever I take the starter off. Ill take a better photo of where the ears are seated. Youll be able to see they are a bit pushed in more than they should be. Thats why I (In a other post) I thought of using the thinnest shims I have to try and take up some of the play.
View attachment 42304

I get it now, the large hole locates the starter. I wonder if all the starters for the colognes are the same diameter? If they are, I wonder if you could get another plate from some other cologne engine, saw the new plate off around the hole, and then use a bunch of pop rivets or something to mount the new cut off piece in the right position to repair the hole. They do make countersunk pop rivets. Basically you can drill your hole, then take a very large drill bit and drill into it a little bit and that gives a place for the pop rivet to sit.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I got her running good. Now, Im having starter issues. I cant tell what the issue is and what's causing it.

The starter keeps getting stuck in the flywheel teeth. Is that starter or flywheel related? Because it happened twice. I'm fixing to just buy a new starter from rockauto if its the starter. It happened 2 times in a row. The Bendix keeps getting jammed inside itself. Like when I remove the bronze/copper cap it's stiff and takes a few smacks with my rubber mallet to get it to go back in. Then it's smooth as butter. Then I put it back on the truck and try and start it. Its a horrible grind and nothing. Doesn't wanna move.

I got a pretty good video of it running. I had the firing order wrong on the 4 and 6 cylinders but it's fixed. So in the video, you see it rock and I'm pretty sure that's why. After I fixed it. That's when the dreaded, soul-sucking, bloodthirsty, flesh-eating, wanting to make everything in its path hell starter gave me the big one.

 

[RobbieD]

Glad to hear that it's "running good". Had a chance to drive it yet?

Sucks about the starter. If you're knocking the Bendix back in place, sounds like it's the starter to me.

 

[MadMax_636]

Glad to hear that it's "running good". Had a chance to drive it yet?

Sucks about the starter. If you're knocking the Bendix back in place, it sounds like it's the starter to me.

Not yet, Didnt trust her enough because of that starter.

Yeah, When I turn the starter it just slams and makes a horrible grinding sound. When I pull the starter off its super stiff. Like it barely moves when I tried to use my flat head screwdriver to pry/push it back in. Then I pull the cap off and it just as stiff but breaks free. Its also at a weird angle when its stuff.

So You think I should bite the bullet and get a new starter? Ive had horrible luck with remanned starters. So Ive learned to stay away from when.

 

[RobbieD]

Tough call. I've never replaced a starter on any of my current trucks; as far as I know, they're all the original starters (they're all Ford / Motorcraft units). My choices in order would be a new Motorcraft (expensive), a good used original unit, or reman only as a last resort.

 

[MadMax_636]

Tough call. I've never replaced a starter on any of my current trucks; as far as I know, they're all the original starters (they're all Ford / Motorcraft units). My choices in order would be a new Motorcraft (expensive), a good used original unit, or reman only as a last resort.

I ordered a new starter. It should be here Wednesday. Tomorrow (Im off work) I'm gonna try cranking it over by hand. See if there isn't anything stopping the motor from spinning over. I doubt there is. I think the starter it just binding/jamming up.

 

[AndyB.]

It is possible to just replace the starter drive gear:

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[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: New starter fixed it. I got her running on the right firing order and she runs nice and smooth. The timing marks are readable when I shoot the timing light on it. The pointer is outside the second notch on the timing wheel. Don't know if that means I'm too far advanced or retarded. I circled the notch I'm talking about.

Credit for the photo goes to @AndyB.

So my main issue right now is setting the timing. I have it at a decent timing and my intake vacuum is around 25 inches which seems high but I could be wrong. This motor has always sat around the 19-21 mark so a nice steady 24-26 seems a bit high. I've got it off chock btw and the mixture screws are set for a nice clean idle. The idle screw is basically backed out all of the ways. Im just wondering where I need to set the timing for her to be happy and not worry about spark knock and the vacuum advanced to not cause issues. I haven't gotten to drive her yet sadly. I REALLY WANT TO but want to get the timing in a safe spot to not cause damage or issues. I also need to fix my drivers side valve cover as to I think it might be leaking somehow onto the manifold.

 

[AndyB.]

Here’s a better picture of the timing marks. Most of these engines are set at idle around 10° BTDC. I think you still need to set up the vacuum advance.

 

[MadMax_636]

Here’s a better picture of the timing marks. Most of these engines are set at idle around 10° BTDC. I think you still need to set up the vacuum advance.

Yeah, not to be a bother or seem dumb. Could you point out where 10° BTDC is on the wheel? Since the larger numbers confuse me.
Ill try and shoot a video of what I see tomorrow. Its getting dark out right now. I did get the right line for my vacuum advanced. Its all hooked up.

 

[ford4wd08]

Maybe this will help. You can read 12 DBTDC on the pulley.

 

[AndyB.]

The circled hash Mark is 10°. TDC is zero, and each line from that is 2°

 

[franklin2]

Don't mess with the vacuum advance unless you find the proper port to plug it into. On the vacuum level, the higher the better. And make sure the idle is slow enough for the idle mixture screws to have some affect on the idle. If you have it idling too fast, they will not work very well.

 

[MadMax_636]

Truck runs and the new starter is going well. I read a thread about someone else having a similar issue with their starter and they said they used thread locker to keep it tight. Since I had my starter act up today and I went under the truck and hit the starter and it makes the sound it does when it's loose. So I reinstalled it with thread locker on the bolts. I'm letting it cure overnight.

I've got myself a tacho but when I went to wire it up. It seemed to be pulling to much power and causing the HEI to not get the 12v it needed.
I have the green wire on the negative on the coil and the red wire on the same 12v hot wire that the HEI is getting power from. When I removed the green wire from the loop the HEI was getting its full 12 volts. I'm wonder @franklin2 whats the best way to wire up a tach using the HEI? I'm wanting to set the final timing settings with a tach so I know what my RPM is at instead of doing it by ear. Also, I want a tach in my truck since Ford didn't think it needed one. Instead they put stupid dummy lights and a gas gauge...

 

[AndyB.]

I’m pretty sure you want to hook up one side of the tach to ground and the other side to the ground of the coil.