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2.8l Cylinder Head Bolts?

Project84

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Hey TRS,
I have been looking everywhere for some head bolts for my 2.8l V6 and can't seam to find any. Already tore apart the engine only to find out that no stores here in Amarillo have any traces of the bolts. Need my truck back and running fast!
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
 


adsm08

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The 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 share a head bolt. Fel-Pro makes them, but I know guys who have had issues with the Fel-Pro ones not staying tight.

They are still available from Ford too, and priced similarly to the Fel-Pro ones.
 

AndyB.

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The 2.8 does not use a torque to yield fastener, you can reuse your existing bolts (unless they're in bad shape or someone decided to torque them to yield.

There are several listings on eBay for Ford 2.8 head bolts.
 

kimcrwbr1

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My book shows three steps 40-51-85 for the 2.8 but the 2.9 and 4.0 are torque to yield.
 

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The 2.8 does not use a torque to yield fastener, you can reuse your existing bolts (unless they're in bad shape or someone decided to torque them to yield.
Some 2.8s might not, but I'm pretty sure the later ones (the Ranger ones) did. The 2.8's production run kinda straddles the beginning of the use of TTY bolts, and I know for a fact that the Fel-Pro number for the 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 are the same, and that both later engines did use TTY bolts.


I personally would not risk the price of the job on the bolts. Also, some of them are outside and exposed, with torx heads. Yuck.
 

rangerin

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When I resealed my 2.8 I just reused them and made sure to torque them properly.
 

Project84

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Thank you all. i ended up just reusing them because as far as i could find they are NOT TTY. Seams to be running good and they torqued just fine.
Although now I'm having overheating issues. I put a brand new NAPA water pump on and did a head gasket job. Only half of the radiator is geting hot also. Not sure if i need a new radiator or what.
Thanks.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Put a coolant flush fitting in the heater hose for the intake manifold. Hold the hose higher than the radiator cap and pour water in until it runs out the radiator. You need to burp the bypass circuit and the heater hose will fill the top of the motor and the heater core. I bet your heater is not working is that correct?
 

kimcrwbr1

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The two most effective ways to fill the cooling system are vacuum fill and top fill through a heater hose.

Top filling is the more practical option for most people, just like Kim described.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Thinking back I also flushed out the block when the water pump was off if you continue getting alot of rust in the system backflush the radiator and heater core good pull the water pump and spray inside the block in both directions until clear water comes out then put it back together. My coolant is the same color now as when I did the complete flush 5 years ago.
 

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There are different filling procedures based on the year of your 2.8. If the thermostat is in the lower, front housing, you have to detach the upper radiator hose and fill up the engine by pouring coolant into it. If the thermostat is in the housing on top of the intake, you can fill it through the radiator without detaching anything.

While not necessary, the Lisle no spill funnels are a great tool.
 

Big Jim M

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I always drill a 1/8 hole in any new thermostat that doesn't come with a hole in it. This hole and the heater turned to hot will allow complete filling of all engines that I have worked on.
Big Jim
 

kimcrwbr1

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I always drill a 1/8 hole in any new thermostat that doesn't come with a hole in it. This hole and the heater turned to hot will allow complete filling of all engines that I have worked on.
Big Jim
The problem with that is the thermostat on the 2.8 is on the hose coming into the engine off the lower radiator hose not on the upper radiator hose. The bypass circuit get a bubble that is a pain to burp.
 

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