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2.8 lurches, kicks & stalls at takeoff?


85ranger2.8

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I brought the old farm truck home to try and get ready for my newly licensed 16 year old son to use. It has been there for the last 20 years but sat for the last 5. My uncle used it to haul wood up from a holler all those years and while it was never fast, I swear it would have climbed a telephone pole if could've hung on. My uncle had a new fuel pump installed just before I picked it up. I'd love to have gotten my son a newer truck like most of the spoiled kid's at his school have but, I just don't have the ability to do that financially. He loves the old Ranger and learned to drive in it 9 years ago so there's some sentimental value here as well. He's a good kid that never complains & had a rough year being in a bad wreck that took the life of his friend so I really want to do what I can to get this running well again on a budget. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have some knowledge and have learned a lot on this site, I am willing to do the work I can but I'm not gear head either. It has 98,000 miles on it.

The trouble is, whenever we go to take off whether warmed up or cold, the ranger jumps, lurches and kicks like an old mule and I have to rev it way too high just to get it going. It jumps a little in second gear and then is fine in 3rd thru 5th. It's a manual by the way. But anytime I roll up to a stop sign or light it dies unless I keep on the gas revving up way too high. The odd thing is that When I start it up cold or warm in the garage, it idles beautifully and never chokes up even after 15 minutes of idling. I understand the duraspark conversion may be an issue and plan to do this but will probable have to try and salvage the carb for now because of the expense. My initial thoughts were vacuum lines so I replaced all of the lines since the plastic ones had a number of cracks. It ran a little better for a few days but, as the day went on it got worse, making me think the TFI crap was the possibly the issue getting hot. I also thought maybe the Cat was clogged up so I just took it out but didn't change any of the other smog stuff yet. Same deal, a little better for 20 miles or so, and ran very smooth on highway etc. then worse to the point that the last time I had it out, I stopped at the DMV for new tags to replace the temp tag and it would not run for anything. The next day it still didn't want to even idle. The following day it started and I barely got it the 3 miles home and it has stayed there. I wonder if the duraspark will take care of this issue but, my gut says it is more than that. I fear I may be looking at a rebuild but I'm totally guessing. Gonna try and rebuild the carb on my own but I've never done that before. I did find the carb rebuild guide in the tech section so I'm gonna try. We don't have emissions testing here so I'm hoping for some improvements after I get rid of the smog stuff.
The motor feels like it has good power but all choked up. There was some white smoke the last time I got it started, but the oil looks good, not milky and the coolant looks good and I can see it flowing after doing a flush & new thermostat. No leaks, just a lot of oil build up from the valve covers. I plan to do a valve job but hope not to be looking at a rebuild unnecessarily.

I would be grateful for any input and advice. If I do have to rebuild, any thought about upgrades for a little more top end? I can't get above 60-65 mph unless going downhill (literally), and it loses a lot of speed going uphill on the Interstate.

Thanks for any help!!!
 


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GKM007

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I had some lurch issues when I was running the stock setup. The carb had been recently rebuilt so I do not think it was a carb issue on mine. I know the vacuum relays on the passenger side would get to clicking (not sure which one) and when they clicked the motor would run rough and get close to dying. I bet if my relays got any worse I could see a situation like yours. It would also have trouble starting sometimes didn't matter if hot or cold, so I always ruled out my TFI since they should only be a problem when hot normally.

I do not know much about the relays honestly, but 30 year old vacuum relayed and assisted carb system in my mind is trouble which is why I durasparked my motor.

Durasparking my 2.8 has been amazing! I have zero trouble anymore. There is plenty of power to be had in a 2.8 if it's running good. Mine will do 85 down the freeway easily and I have 3.45's and an auto.

I am sure someone else on hear might be able to help zero in on the exact problem, but in my opinion duraspark is the best route.
 

RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

The title issue reads like Accelerator pump is bad.
Accelerator pump is a diaphragm on the side of the float bowl, you will see it connected to the throttle linkage with a metal rod.
When you press down on the gas pedal the diaphragm is pulled in and squirts extra fuel into the carbs throat.
This extra fuel is needed because a carb adds fuel via vacuum and air flow, fuel is sucked into the engine from the Jets, when you press down on the gas pedal the throttle plate opens and vacuum drops for a moment, so LESS fuel is sucked in right at the time you need MORE fuel, accelerator pump adds that extra fuel when needed.

When diaphragm gets old it cracks and less and less fuel is added when needed, so when you try to accelerate, engine "lurches, kicks & stalls", basically engine is running out of gas for that moment.

Could also be spark timing, make sure SPOUT connector is in place and not corroded.

Getting rid or the TFI system is a good change, Duraspark distributor with HEI module is best solution.

TFI info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Duraspark info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.shtml

You just want the Duraspark distributor if you go with an HEI module

A $20 vacuum gauge is a very handy diagnostic tool

Good read here on using one and tests: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
 
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85ranger2.8

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Thanks for the great information, it is really helpful. I happened to be talking to an aquaintance today and the Ranger came up in conversation. It turns out he has 3 1978 Pinto's rotting away , but in a barn! I'm going to get a 2.8 with everything including the carb in return for some work I can do for him. Amazing! I'm going to follow the advice you guys gave and use the parts I can off the other motor. Maybe work on the backup a little at a time. Thanks again for such quick and thorough advice, it is great how willing people like you are to lend some help! My son thanks you as well. I'll post the progress over the next month.
 

85ranger2.8

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Just a couple of quick thoughts etc... I had considered buying a vacuum gauge but wondered if it would be worth it after doing the duraspark conversion and eliminating most of the vacuum lines. I suppose it makes sense since there are still a few lines that will remain.
I appreciated the links you sent and it got me thinking that I really hadn't seen any info regarding diagnosing through vacuum tests although I am going to study up on it. I ran across this page in a Ford shop manual tonight, that I recently bought and thought it might be helpful to some people but I don't know where or how to put it out there for others yet. I am going to attach it below and if you think it would be helpful to others maybe you would know where to put it on the forum. It applies to 1983-1987 Rangers and B2's both gas and diesel according to the manual. Thanks again for the help from both of you guys!
 

85ranger2.8

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83-87 Ranger, B2 vacuum test readings
 

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RonD

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Good info, thank you :)

Vacuum gauge is helpful with vacuum systems but..............

It's most common use is diagnosing issues with any gasoline engine made from 1898 to 2016.
4cyl to V12, carb or EFI, points or electronic spark, doesn't matter, if it has pistons, valves and a throttle plate, then vacuum gauge can tell you alot.
 
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Kevin Evans

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Rebuilding the carb is fairly simple on the Motorcraft 2150. There are a lot of versions of this carb, so make sure to get the right kit for it. On mine, there was a little tag attached to the carb with the stamped model. I think it might also be stamped elsewhere on the carb.

Rebuilding it is fairly easy. You just need a ton of carb cleaner to let it soak in.

You'll need a vacuum gauge to tune it (well the idle screws). The choke also probably haa to be adjusted too, but there should be instructions that come with it.

Be sure to take note of the fast idle cam positions before you rebuild it. Or just leave the fast idle cam positioning screws where they are :p

What condition are the spark plugs in? It might give some insight on how the motor is running...

Also! It's worth getting a cheap induction tach if you don't got one on the dash.
 
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wildbill23c

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The little clicking noise was the same issue I had with my 1984 Bronco 2. As soon as that clicking started it would pretty much die. It did it to me one day on my way into town, there's a relay on the passenger side behind the kick panel by the door, remove the kick panel, pull that relay out and throw it away. I did that with mine and it ran great after that, never had an issue with it cutting out and stalling.

The other thing it may be is the carburetor may be dirty from sitting, could need cleaned as well as adjusted. Check the tech section there should be some information in there on adjusting the carburetor.

A vacuum leak anywhere can cause some idling and driving problems. If its bucking really bad when taking off from a stop check your motor mounts, if they are broken, or loose it can cause the bucking issues as well. This is what sounds like your lurching and bucking problem is, same issue we had with one of our service trucks at work, a couple new motor mounts and its taking off much smoother. Something else that could cause that issue as well with a manual transmission is the clutch & flywheel could be damaged from someone riding the clutch at some point causing hot spots on the flywheel/clutch which will cause some catching, which is most noticeable at take off after the vehicle has been driven for a while.
 

85ranger2.8

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Thanks for all of the advice. We rebuilt the carb last night and hope to get it back in and hopefully adjusted tonight. It was incredibly dirty and even had part of an acorn shell in the bowl! What the heck! I am hopeful for good results. We also picked a set of perfect seats from a 1999 ranger at the junk yard for $80. I really wanted the headrest so I wouldn't worry as much about his head hitting the rear window if he ever has a fender bender. The holes are 1 inch shorter on the new frame but, I think we can fabricate something to make it work and be secure. I'll let you guys know how the carb does. Thanks again
 

wildbill23c

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Keep us posted on your results. Acorns do NOT!!! belong in the carburetor LOL.

I've had 2 RBV's and both had the 2.8L V6. Absolutely nothing wrong with that engine, no its not a race car, and not its not a race car engine, they weren't built for racing. My 84 Ranger towed a 14' travel trailer all over the country for several years without any issues. Didn't try towing anything with my 84 Bronco 2 as the rear suspension was shot in it when I got it LOL, however it was a lot of fun to drive and if it weren't for the previous owner spending way too much time in Utah and never bothering to wash it, then their son screwing around with stuff on it and putting the wrong flywheel in it, I'd still have it. The rust issues were beyond easy and simple repairs, and the flywheel/starter issues just got tired of throwing money at something I couldn't afford to fix properly so it went to the scrap yard, didn't feel right selling it to someone with the rust issues and starter issues.
 

85ranger2.8

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We finally got all of the parts to do the duraspark conversion except for the carb and we are attempting this tonite and over the weekend. I've read the tech article 100 times over the last couple of months to prepare but I have a couple of questions as we are removing the engine wiring now & I don't want to mess it up. I am going to attach two pictures that I hope will help in answering.
#1) I am guessing to leave the starter relay in place but, it wasn't mentioned to do so. The RED wire coming out splits into 2 YELLOW wires. I know that one must go to the starter but as I untapped the harness to separate it from the stuff we need to remove, I discovered that one of the yellow wires is not connected to anything and has corrosion on the end. Is this supposed to be connected to anything? If not, I am confused why it is there. There are no other cut lines in the harness that I can see.

2). Located on the passenger sidewall, right in the middle of the vacuum solenoid so, there is a black box and what looks like a relay? Can anyone tell me what these are and if they are to be removed when doing the duraspark conversion?

Thanks for everyone's help, it took longer than I hoped to get the money together for the parts. The Holley#7448 carb deal never materialized so we are going to try and use the 2150A that is on it until I can scrape enough cash together to get one. I have read different posts that say go for it as it is and other posts that say to make a metering block for it. Any opinions? I also read that sing a Felpro 60529 Spacer would block off all the vacuum issues if staying with the 2150A. Any advice with that would be great too! I hope all have a safe Memorial Day weekend and Thank you to all those who have served and Peace to those who didn't make it back, like my Uncle Ray.
 

85ranger2.8

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Starter relay wires

Starter relay wire disconnected from what?image.jpg
 

85ranger2.8

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What are these and do I remove when doing the duraspark?

What are these and do I remove when doing the duraspark conversion?
 

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85ranger2.8

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Ok, so I thought the red wire that splits into 2 yellows was coming off the bottom of the relay (dumbass non-mechanic..) but, after looking closer, it is actually going to the ground side of the relay. Maybe you something aftermarket? Also after looking around more, I noticed a yellow wire coming off of the regulator that is not connected.... Could this be where it was going to? I'll attach a pic. Sorry if these questions are elementary to you guys, I am becoming self taught & dangerous maybe, lol. Just want to pass more knowledge on to my son than I got. Thanks
 


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