2.5L ('98-'01) 2.5L Clutch Life ?

[-Nate]

My 2001 2.5 liter 5 speeds' clutch is beginning to take up 1/2" from the floor .


How long do they generally last ? .

How do I disconnect the hydraulic donut ? .

TIA,

 

[scotts90ranger]

It all depends on how you drive how long they live... I got my '97 with no known history on the clutch at 140k on it, it has 216k on it now and I've only done a master cylinder when it quit...

Usually when the pedal goes down it's because the fluid is low in the master cylinder, I'd check that...

Getting the line off the slave isn't bad, just push in the white ring as even as possible (there's a tool for this in the HELP! section of the store I think, I have one somewhere but haven't used it in many years since I don't know where I put it...

 

[-Nate]

Thank you ! .

If this tool the same one as the fuel line releasing tool ? .

It's not a hydraulic issue, the pedal etc. all work fine, I'm just thinking it may be time , don't wait for it to fail .

 

[scotts90ranger]

Some of the clutches are self adjusting and some aren't... back in the day I went through like 3 clutches on the '90 before I put a Centerforce in it and that lasted through 10 years of abuse and was just fine when I pulled it to rebuild the transmission so it will go in the '97 when it's time... every clutch in the '90 felt the same from day one until it wouldn't accelerate in pretty much any gear, in my '91 Explorer I just changed it because the slave cylinder was leaking... but I get ya on trying to figure it out, can't see much through the inspection hole... I have no idea when the '97 will give out, but I now have spare vehicles so I'm not too worried...

No, different than a fuel line disconnect, this is the one, I usually just use two screwdrivers or whatever I have on hand to push the white ring in which takes some patience, the tool would be easier...

 

[-Nate]

Thanx Scott ~

I've been reading my $45 set of factory shop manuals and there's a wear limit spec. of .012" from a rivet head to the friction surface of the disc .

That's a handy thing to know, for now I'm still doing fiddly thing, each one makes it run a bit better, I think I have finally figured out where the PCV is on the 2.5L engine, it's not in plain sight like usual and no one here seems to know .

 

[scotts90ranger]

Behind the AC compressor look for a hose that changes from 3/8" to 3/4", where that happens is the PCV valve, not sure where you looked or asked, it doesn't come up as often as it used to since the newest Lima is 23 years old now...

 

[-Nate]

PCV location .

THANK YOU SIR ! .

This is what I wanted to know .

Yesterday it was blazing hot, I went to the Ford Dealer and was able to order in both the PCV and rocker box vents hoses, $40 the pair, not cheap but considering the 23 year old originals are still there I wanted to use O.E.M. molded hoses if I could .

I'm going to try and soak the PCV proper in my favorite degreaser and see if it still works, I'm confident it will .

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it's still the stock plastic one I would just change it, when I did the drivers side plug wires on my '97 just disconnecting mine I broke it...

 

[-Nate]

Thanx ! .

Am I allowed to drift the topic here ? .

I was doing a routine oil & filter change today and noticed the out put hose on the power steering pump was leaking at the fitting where it screws into the pump ~ I tried to tighten it, no joy yet the steel pie sticking out was loose & wobbly so I un did the fitting and made sure there was no crud in the threads and re assembled it, still loose .

Is there supposed to be a seal in there ? it looks like a compression fitting to me .

TIA,

 

[scotts90ranger]

Thread drift all you want, especially in your own thread

Those fittings have O rings in them somewhere, I haven't dealt with that much myself but I know it's something that does leak and sometimes you can get O ring kits for them but you might need to replace the hose...

 

[-Nate]

TANK YOU Scott (s) ! .

I went to the Auto Zone site looking for a new ho$e, they have it for $106.00 and below have the "also often purchased with this item' listed DORMAN HELP # 82549, a $6 package of two Teflon O-Rings specifically made to seal the pump end of the pressure hose .

Then I read all the reviews and comments, apparently you're supposed to heat them in hot water before installing else they'll break .

One reviewer heated it with a heat gun, I don't have heat gun nor hair dryer so we'll see what's what, they open in two hours so I'll go buy them and try to take some images to post up here .

MORE topic drift : I can -barely- see the oil pressure sender hiding behind an intake manifold runner, am I supposed to remove the upper half of the intake manifold to access it ? .

If so, will I need new gaskets for the intake manifold ? .

TIA,

 

[DeeRanger]

Back on clutch life, my 2001 XLT 5spd 2wd, that I purchased new in 2001, has 321g on the Speedo and the original clutch. I did have to change the slave out at about 180. To be fair most of those miles were daily commuting miles, never really towed or hauled much of anything. But I'm still driving her today with that same clutch. Keep Rangering.

 

[scotts90ranger]

So, standard clutch life is anywhere between 10k (I've done it, took offroading though when I was green at that) and 350k miles, I think that narrows it down

If I get frisky this weekend I'll figure out what that .012" from the rivet leaves for friction plate thickness which you might be able to figure out from the inspection hole with a feeler of some form...

 

[-Nate]

Thanx DR ;

I'm guessing you meant 321,000 miles ? .

Scott , you cannot see / reach the rivets with the clutch cover in place .

Today's job was the leaking hi pressure output fitting(s) , I replaced the Teflon O-Ring between the hose and the outlet fitting, this is what came out :

Here's the Dorman Products HELP Teflon O-Ring kit :

I used the smaller one, it fits right in the hole left when you remove the pressure hose using an open end 18MM wrench .

I buttoned it all up and cleaned everything dry, started it up and ran the steering left & right a few times to fully bleed it, no drips, excellent .

I repaired and re routed the driver's side park lamp wire my dang dog chewed in 1/2, then added some nice LED bulbs to replace the original failed GE incandescent ones :

Then as I was lifting the inner fender liner back into place I noticed a drip from the P.S. Pump fitting ~ dangit .

It turns out the large fitting that screws into the plastic pump housing was weeping ~ I removed it and saw two O-Rings, the smaller one was damaged from the initial installation and finally failed, off I went to the Partshaus again, took the old cleaned up O-Rings and fitting in to match them up, they didn't have the normal big box 'O O-Rings to choose from so I bought three small packages of O-rings and was able to match both up, I hope this fixes it as ATF creeps all over the Concrete and takes a while to clean up in this 100* F weather not to mention once it's on your skin it seals your pores closed and creeps until you're soaking wet with ATF and sweat trapped underneath at .
As long as I had the inner fender liner off I cleaned it up so it looks near new again then I moved on to the MAF sensor , I'd removed the entire alloy block and sprayed in it before but didn't see anything dirty, searching here I found a DIY how-to remove the actual super delicate sensor for proper cleaning ~ I had to go back to the Partshaus yet again and buy a set of special "Tamper Resistant" Torx bits,then it came right apart using the T20 size, here's what I saw :

If you look closely the lower thing is a different color, in the flesh it looked black .

I sprayed it with CRD MAF sensor cleaner spray and Lo ! that lower thing (looks like a tiny resistor to me) turned the same color as the upper one, I figure this can't be a bad thing , the alloy hiusing only had a little bit of accumulated crud on it :

I cleaned that Hospital Clean and it runs better, especially at low RPM's when pulling away from a stop or hyper miling it .

 

[-Nate]

Okay, next question :

I want to aim the headlights and the Allen adjustment post is smaller than my 5.5MM socket, what size tool do I need or is there a special tool ? .

TIA, I'm enjoying Buck Owens and ice cold AC after all this sweaty work = .