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2.3l Lima turbo kits


Waldoduhh

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Anyone have a good link for a usable turbo kit. All the ones I've found are from very old outdated posts and no longer work. Doesn't have to have the pistons and rods, but everything else would be awesome, or as close to everything. I have a 96 model so, if I'm understanding correctly, I need to rebuild the whole bottom end with a better crank, forged pistons, rods, and camshaft, Or just pull a bottom from a 93 or older.

Not looking to go too crazy, 7 psi max.
 


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franklin2

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Waldoduhh

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That engine is so old now, I doubt you will find any "kits". You will have to find a regular 2.3 and build it yourself.

Here's a short block if you have the money to buy it. https://esslingeracing.com/ford-2-valve-4-cyl-engines-parts/2-3l-sohc-lima-engines-parts/bottom-end-assemblies-components-1/assembled-shortblocks-6
Boo well thats unfortunate. Yeah id love that but that would take over 4 years of saving to come up with. I dont make that much money lol. Well I guess piece by piece it is than. Thank you franklin.
 

RonD

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Just watch autotraders and craigslist for 2.3l turbo vehicles, there are many ranger and mustang conversions out there, along with other models
The 2.3l Lima was a popular engine with "hotrodders", it was made from 1974 to 1997
And its often less expensive to buy an already done conversion than to do it yourself

Bodies/frames rust, fenders get bent, you just want the engine and maybe transmission, so keep an eye out
 

waterran

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That engine is so old now, I doubt you will find any "kits". You will have to find a regular 2.3 and build it yourself.

Here's a short block if you have the money to buy it. https://esslingeracing.com/ford-2-valve-4-cyl-engines-parts/2-3l-sohc-lima-engines-parts/bottom-end-assemblies-components-1/assembled-shortblocks-6
You can buy a NEW turbo on Amazon for $120.00 and a steel header to mount the turbo for another $100-$160. An oil line kit $40.00, & other stuff too. You can even stay with your cast pistons if you're a smart driver and keep boost press. down to manageable...under or at 12psi. use an intercooler on top of the engine and cut/press some louvers in your hood. You don't even need fancy, costly electronic engine controls if you're careful. Turbos have been in diesels and gas engines way before electronic ign. & EFI. There's more, just keep reading everything you can. FYI, GM used CAST pistons in their Buick Turbo Regals. Read Corky Bell books on turbos. They will help.
 

Juan88

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I have a question what is the biggest and easiest intercooler to fit in a 97? I can cut and modify just curious as to what someone else has done
 

waterran

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If you stay near 7 lbs., the top mounted style 'cooler, as FORD used will be ideal. As previously mentioned, just louver the hood. Keep the intake air short and cool and this will help underhood temps will stay lower also. A VW/AUDI 'cooler as shown may work for you. You can find them on ebay for under $100.00 new. It's made (marketed) by CSF. Don't forget that the FORD intercooler was sized for ALL around driving @ 220HP. That small cooler alone added approx. 30HP. Do NOT overcool your engine. You will not get the power you desire. Also, a 1997 model eliminated the ICM. You can wire the COP ignition right from the PCM wiring. Consider using the Turbo injectors and VAM. The turbo and 8 plug Ranger PCM pinouts are on this website, I believe: Dave's 2.3 Turbo Swap page. Just Do It!
 

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Mechrick

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Cast pistons are the only severely weak link in a n/a 2.3 or 2.5. I ran stock rods and cranks in all 3 turbo 2.3/2.5L engines I built, with TRW or Wiseco forged pistons. I kept the boost below 15 psi. and static compression as low as I could get it.

I preferred to run aftermarket injection for the ease in tuning and the ability to run modern high impedance injectors. Stock Garrett T3 turbos are getting scarce, but there are huge options for turbos these days.
 


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